Notices
996 Forum 1999-2005
Sponsored by:

Step by step DIY with pics radiator ballast resistor replacement

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 03-27-2016, 10:06 PM
  #1  
roadsession
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
 
roadsession's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: MA -
Posts: 1,753
Received 12 Likes on 10 Posts
Default Step by step DIY with pics radiator ballast resistor replacement

Heat is the enemy of any engine - and because there are no telltale signs in our cars to tell us of an inoperative stage 1 radiator fan
except by manually trying to activate them I surmise that it causes lots of problems down the road.

Without these Stage 1 fans, you are reliant on the Stage 2 fans which come on at a much higher temperature to cool down the engine and associated components.

Thank you to Renntech for these great instructions: http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutor...tor-fan-motor/

So here are the steps







Prep tools and materials





Reach under the car right in front of the brake ducts and remove old resistor








unbox replacement part - remember For MY99-MY01 use: 996.616.101.00
For MY02 and newer use: 996.616.141.00












Snip off wires and strip insulation














Test with durametric

Last edited by roadsession; 03-28-2016 at 12:21 PM.
Old 03-27-2016, 10:40 PM
  #2  
kmagnuss
Burning Brakes
 
kmagnuss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Englewood, FL
Posts: 1,187
Received 16 Likes on 10 Posts
Default

Buy a heat gun.



Good write up.
Old 03-27-2016, 11:32 PM
  #3  
roadsession
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
 
roadsession's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: MA -
Posts: 1,753
Received 12 Likes on 10 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by kmagnuss
Buy a heat gun.



Good write up.
Hahahahha yes sharp eye you have !
Torch scorched some wire insulation ;-)
Old 03-28-2016, 08:49 AM
  #4  
kmagnuss
Burning Brakes
 
kmagnuss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Englewood, FL
Posts: 1,187
Received 16 Likes on 10 Posts
Default

I wouldn't know it but it took me a long time to finally break down and buy one. Used to use a lighter LOL.
Old 03-28-2016, 09:11 AM
  #5  
dporto
Rennlist Member
 
dporto's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: L.I. NY
Posts: 6,783
Received 1,154 Likes on 791 Posts
Default

Micro torch works well...Soldering iron also Is there a way to test those resistors besides Durametric?
Old 03-28-2016, 09:13 AM
  #6  
Paul Waterloo
Rennlist Member
 
Paul Waterloo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Wilbur by the Sea, FL
Posts: 2,810
Received 217 Likes on 140 Posts
Default

Why didn't you go back to the connector and just unplug it and plug this one in?

<img src=http://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/80-image_982d0c6b8d5094474df5e55bbadefdcbef19cbe8.jpeg>

It appears that there is one wire that has to be manually hooked up. I would go back and insulate those connections better, they are not water tight.

Thanks for posting!
Old 03-28-2016, 11:02 AM
  #7  
wildbilly32
Drifting
 
wildbilly32's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Flyover Country
Posts: 3,097
Received 778 Likes on 498 Posts
Default

Heat shrink!

BTW do you like your jack stands? Are they tall enough for underneath access? Debating buying a set.
Old 03-28-2016, 12:08 PM
  #8  
roadsession
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
 
roadsession's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: MA -
Posts: 1,753
Received 12 Likes on 10 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Paul Waterloo
Why didn't you go back to the connector and just unplug it and plug this one in?

<img src=http://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/80-image_982d0c6b8d5094474df5e55bbadefdcbef19cbe8.jpeg>

It appears that there is one wire that has to be manually hooked up. I would go back and insulate those connections better, they are not water tight.

Thanks for posting!
Actually the Porsche Workshop manual calls for splicing it in. I was going by those instructions...

You may be right about those connections - I may hit them up with silicon adhesive later as I'd hate to recrimp those...
Old 03-28-2016, 12:12 PM
  #9  
roadsession
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
 
roadsession's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: MA -
Posts: 1,753
Received 12 Likes on 10 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by wildbilly32
Heat shrink!

BTW do you like your jack stands? Are they tall enough for underneath access? Debating buying a set.
Yes. Don't know how I worked on the car without them.
I know lots of people say they can jack up the car from the center member but I've never felt comfortable doing that and potentially messing up the engine mounts.

For me personally the benefits in terms of ease of jacking up the car, and having it securely stand on these things outweighed the initial cost of the Jackpoint jack stands. I only tackle really simple stuff on my car, but even so I've used them on winter tire changeovers, oil changes, and now this little project
Old 03-28-2016, 12:15 PM
  #10  
roadsession
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
 
roadsession's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: MA -
Posts: 1,753
Received 12 Likes on 10 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by dporto
Micro torch works well...Soldering iron also Is there a way to test those resistors besides Durametric?
Hi, I'm not sure if there's a good way to test these other than Durametric or PTS-2

But man, that Durametric has paid for itself 20X over in the past 6 yrs....
I've used it to test leveling sensors for bixenons, reset the seat belt light, reset tiptronic adaptation, diagnose every single CEL accurately and avoided a lot of unnecessary trial/error parts replacement
Old 03-28-2016, 04:25 PM
  #11  
San Rensho
Racer
 
San Rensho's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 408
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 7 Posts
Default

That resistor was really fried. That happens a lot because the resistors are down low and right in the front of the car so if you go through a deep puddle of water, the very hot resistor gets submerged and its toast.



Quick Reply: Step by step DIY with pics radiator ballast resistor replacement



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 03:41 AM.