Step by step DIY with pics radiator ballast resistor replacement
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Step by step DIY with pics radiator ballast resistor replacement
Heat is the enemy of any engine - and because there are no telltale signs in our cars to tell us of an inoperative stage 1 radiator fan
except by manually trying to activate them I surmise that it causes lots of problems down the road.
Without these Stage 1 fans, you are reliant on the Stage 2 fans which come on at a much higher temperature to cool down the engine and associated components.
Thank you to Renntech for these great instructions: http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutor...tor-fan-motor/
So here are the steps
Prep tools and materials
Reach under the car right in front of the brake ducts and remove old resistor
unbox replacement part - remember For MY99-MY01 use: 996.616.101.00
For MY02 and newer use: 996.616.141.00
Snip off wires and strip insulation
Test with durametric
except by manually trying to activate them I surmise that it causes lots of problems down the road.
Without these Stage 1 fans, you are reliant on the Stage 2 fans which come on at a much higher temperature to cool down the engine and associated components.
Thank you to Renntech for these great instructions: http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutor...tor-fan-motor/
So here are the steps
Prep tools and materials
Reach under the car right in front of the brake ducts and remove old resistor
unbox replacement part - remember For MY99-MY01 use: 996.616.101.00
For MY02 and newer use: 996.616.141.00
Snip off wires and strip insulation
Test with durametric
Last edited by roadsession; 03-28-2016 at 12:21 PM.
#5
Rennlist Member
Micro torch works well...Soldering iron also Is there a way to test those resistors besides Durametric?
#6
Rennlist Member
Why didn't you go back to the connector and just unplug it and plug this one in?
<img src=http://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/80-image_982d0c6b8d5094474df5e55bbadefdcbef19cbe8.jpeg>
It appears that there is one wire that has to be manually hooked up. I would go back and insulate those connections better, they are not water tight.
Thanks for posting!
<img src=http://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/80-image_982d0c6b8d5094474df5e55bbadefdcbef19cbe8.jpeg>
It appears that there is one wire that has to be manually hooked up. I would go back and insulate those connections better, they are not water tight.
Thanks for posting!
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#8
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Why didn't you go back to the connector and just unplug it and plug this one in?
<img src=http://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/80-image_982d0c6b8d5094474df5e55bbadefdcbef19cbe8.jpeg>
It appears that there is one wire that has to be manually hooked up. I would go back and insulate those connections better, they are not water tight.
Thanks for posting!
<img src=http://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/80-image_982d0c6b8d5094474df5e55bbadefdcbef19cbe8.jpeg>
It appears that there is one wire that has to be manually hooked up. I would go back and insulate those connections better, they are not water tight.
Thanks for posting!
You may be right about those connections - I may hit them up with silicon adhesive later as I'd hate to recrimp those...
#9
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I know lots of people say they can jack up the car from the center member but I've never felt comfortable doing that and potentially messing up the engine mounts.
For me personally the benefits in terms of ease of jacking up the car, and having it securely stand on these things outweighed the initial cost of the Jackpoint jack stands. I only tackle really simple stuff on my car, but even so I've used them on winter tire changeovers, oil changes, and now this little project
#10
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
But man, that Durametric has paid for itself 20X over in the past 6 yrs....
I've used it to test leveling sensors for bixenons, reset the seat belt light, reset tiptronic adaptation, diagnose every single CEL accurately and avoided a lot of unnecessary trial/error parts replacement
#11
That resistor was really fried. That happens a lot because the resistors are down low and right in the front of the car so if you go through a deep puddle of water, the very hot resistor gets submerged and its toast.