Ahsai

Hi guys,

Just want to let you know the updated cable from Porsche (P/N 99660701903) is really nice ($40 from Sunset Porsche). My old cable is heavily corroded at the started end. I discovered it by doing a voltage drop test on that cable under load (a/c and low beam ON) and found I lost ~0.5V on that 3 ft cable (@54A)!

My voltage gauge reading would sometimes drag down to a hair below 13V when I had heavier load ON. Now with the new cable, I only lose 50mV on that same cable and my voltage stays at ~13.4v even with heavy load. I highly recommend the new cable even though it's a bit of a pain to replace it.

I also replaced my voltage regulator with F00M-144-136 from Pelican and it works just fine. There's nothing wrong with my old one F00M-145-350 but I figure since I have it apart, I may as well replace it and leave the old one as a spare.

PelicanParts.com

Great pics! And good info.

Fester53

Ahsai, I have the exact same issue. Thanks for posting the part number. Did you,get your part from a dealership? More importantly, did you have to remove the A/C compressor to get the cable out and the new one in? Doesn't look like the terminal will fit around otherwise.

Thanks.

Ahsai

I got my cable from Sunset Porsche ($40 + shipping) and yes, you have to remove the a/c compressor.

I didn't need to remove the starter and the following steps worked for me:

- remove the airbox, drive belt, then the alternator
- remove cable from alternator
- peel back the thick rubber sleeve on the starter +ve terminal then remove the connection nut using very long extension
- remove the throttle body
- unscrew the power steering fluid reservoir cap then rotate (not remove so no fluid loss) the reservoir anti-clockwise to make room for a/c compressor removal
- remove the a/c compressor (3 bolts. Bolts will stay on the compressor. One bolt at the back that can be seen by an inspection mirror. Remove the engine compartment temp sensor with the rubber grommet between the 4&5 intake runners and put an extension there). The compressor only needs to come out slightly to create clearance for the bulky jump start terminal to pass
- there's a plastic bracket in the middle of the cable that snaps and locks onto a palstic tab which in turn mounts on the engine. Cut the old plastic bracket with a pair of dikes but make sure you don't damage the tab the bracket locks onto.
- cut the zip tie that's in the middle of the cable
- remove the cable from the left of the engine bay

Install is the reverse except snap the plastic bracket onto the tab only at the final step because it's virtually impossible to disengage it once it's locked in, except destroying it.

Fester53

Thanks for the detailed instructions! I got to the 3 bolts on the compressor and loosened them all (removed one of the front ones and the smaller 10mm under the temp sensor). I'm having a tough time getting the compressor to move forward. Was it a pain or am I missing something? I literally can barely budge it.

Ahsai

Did you rotate the power steering pump reservoir to create clearance?

fpb111

Ahsai,
How long are the old regulator brushes? Pic? How many miles?

Fester53

Ahsai, I removed the wrong bolt which is why it wouldn't move! Found the correct one. Did you drain the steering fluid? I can't seem to rotate it more than 1/4" so I may drain and remove it.

Fester53

Got it done. The replacement cable will take a few days to get here so in the meantime I hit the corroded cables with battery cleaner and wrapped them with electrical tape. Reattached everything and it started right up!

Thanks for your help.

Ahsai

Hey Frank, it had 3yrs and 20k miles on them and have plenty of life left. The regulator was still working fine.

Ahsai

Glad you got it figured out. BTW, I didn't need to drain any power steering fluid. Just unscrewed the cap and rotated the reservior a bit. Come to think about it, you may need to pull out the reservoir neck a little bit before you can rotate it. Anyway, it's no big deal even if you have to drain some fluid. I'm sure you don't have to remove the reservoir to get clearance though.

sjg1138

Hi guys. Thanks for the info Ahsai. I have the same issue and am planning to follow your directions.
Does anyone know if the updated cable from Porsche (P/N 99660701903) will fit a '99 cab? I've gone to some of the parts sites and its unclear.
Sonnen is saying that I need part # 99660701901 (rather than 99660701903).

Thanks!

Ahsai

Glad my info helps. I highly recommend Sunset Porsche (Andraya - andraya.hayward@sunsetimports.com) She will cross check the parts you order with your VIN to make sure the parts are 100% correct for your car.

I think xxxx1901 is outdated and superceded by the 1903 but pls check with Andraya for a definitive answer. She'll be more than happy to help you.

fpb111

Thanks Ahsai.

Those brushes seem to last ~80k miles. At least that is how long they lasted on two Mercedes MLs that I had. The Alternator was the same Bosch part # on my 2004 ML350 as my 2003 996. These regulator #s fit. Not sure but the -225 and -350 might be different amp ratings. The -225 was in the Mercedes alternator but the -341 was in the Mercedes box??

Ahsai

Hey Frank, no idea how to decode these numbers. And agree the brushes last a long time. Most likely outlast the electrnics inside.