frankv

So a month or so ago my CCU died, I had had it on high speed defrost for about 5-10 minutes and it suddenly conked out. Currently nothing is functional climate control wise other than the lights; my oil cooler and rear blower fans also do not come on. I did all the tests from Tore's site to determine that all the fans in the car were good and that I was getting power to the unit. I did have to change the rear blower temp resistor since it was broken.

So took the CCU apart and found an obvious fault.
This is looking from the front.


The problem is behind the defrost button (sorry crappy cell phone pic)


Essentially the black bottom base has disintegrated on the second band from the left which has broken the 'connection'. The band itself doesn't look that great either in comparison to all the others in the unit

I guess a couple of questions 1) is this repairable, it does look like there are several repair services out there that I could inquire on, if I could find this part I could probably do this myself but 2) what could have caused this as I don't want to repair and have the same thing happen?

Regards,

BobbyT

Hi Frank,

I don't have any experience getting repairs done by any of the businesses that advertise this service, but I do have experience with Tore, buying and installing his products, and helping him in a minor way with field testing. Every transaction with him has been outstanding, and fairly priced.

He does offer repairs on the 993 CCUs.

justin-in-athens

I second Bobby's advice. Tore probably can probably fix your unit, or provide a refurbished one. https://www.bergvillfx.com/index.php/contacts

FLYT993

absolutely, unequivocally send it to tore. i just got mine back from him. comes with a 5 year warranty. i will be sending him another one.

ToreB

Thanks for the trust guys!
This is a typical water/corrosion damage in the CCU, but indeed repairable.
You should check your windscreen for leaks, the gasket is probably not waterproof, allowing water to get in and drip down on the CCU from the inside of the dashboard.
Cheers,
Tore

frankv

Thanks Tore, I will send the CCU on to you to get repaired. As for the windscreen, I did get it replaced by a reputable shop about two years ago; I will do some searching in the forums to see how I might determine if it is leaking. I do know that I have a leak in the car somewhere that I am still trying to find the source of.

- Frank

OverBoosted28

Well, hopefully ya just did....... :-)

Mike J

I wonder if the cause of the damage happened before the windshield was replaced, and it took time to get to total failure?

Lorenfb

A better picture would give a better indication of what may have caused the CCU failure.
It appears that the plastic part of the connector is also damaged, i.e. water would not by
itself have done that. That pin (2nd from left) is the switched #30 power pin K2 (main
power) and the one to the left is K1 ground. That connect lead, if it is open from corrosion,
can easily be fixed by just re-soldering it with a small jumper wire, ten minute effort.
Use an ohmmeter to verify whether that connect lead is really open. If not, then the
CCU has another problem.

ToreB

This is a typical case of water damage, I've seen this exact scenario many times before. This PCB interconnection is placed near the front of the CCU, and this is where water drips down from the dashboard. The main power supply goes through here, and is feeded from Fuse 1. The water causes corrosion and a buildup of a green/white foamy conducting residue between the wires.
The short circuit causes heat buildup, melting the plastic guides, as well as causing solder faults on both PCB's.
Fuse 1 is 30 Ampere, allowing a lot of current, and I have seen several cases of fire damage due to this fault.
I always advice to have the unit checked thoroughly after this fault, and I modify the units to prevent this fault in the future.
Cheers,
Tore

frankv

Yes, sorry about that crappy picture. Unfortunately I have packaged the offending CCU up and shipped it off to Tore for repair so I am unable to take a better picture.

Yes the plastic connector was damaged such that the connect lead was broken, it was essentially just hanging in the air .. and so definitely open, no ohmmeter required for that test :-). In hindsight I should have tested by jury-rigging a connection just to see it the CCU would work.

As for the water leak I wonder if it could be attributed to overall general condensation in the cabin. I have checked with water and rain over the past few days and there is nothing dripping as far as I can tell.

- Thanks for the comments everyone

Lorenfb

Then a simple 10 minute effort to clean the area, check the connection around the area with
a meter and then spray with a clear electrical sealer. Then it's simple to run all the in car tests.
No real need to send the CCU for repair.

frankv

Thanks Loren, I appreciate your comments. I could have repaired as suggested and I have done other simple electrical repairs in the past but at this stage I am comfortable with the fact that I have sent it out for repair.

- Frank