worst project!...rubber bushing removal
02-24-2015, 11:23 AM
#31
Drifting
I really hated doing this DIY too, but I didn't have a sawzall or a press...In hindsight, I should've done the core exchange with FDM. (Or just got the right tools...) I was working with a torch, a hacksaw and then a cold-chisel to gently tap out the carnage...brutal.
"The Rite of Passage"...I like that!
"The Rite of Passage"...I like that!
02-24-2015, 03:36 PM
#32
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I have done this 3 times and it really wasn't that bad once I had done the first one. The trick for me is using a hack saw blade to cut the outer metal bushing part. Take the blade off the saw, put it thru the hole and put it back on the saw. After carefully cutting a slot thru the arm and barely grazing the arm, take a flat screwdriver or something and bend it inward and then you can push it out. Like someone said earlier, the worst part is getting the sticky grease off everything. I still have a few tools with that stuff on it.
02-24-2015, 04:00 PM
#33
Instructor
Did mine last winter. Hats out was pretty straight forward with a torch and vice grips. The tricky part was getting the outer sleeves out of the control arm. I used a hacksaw and cut through the metal sleeve till I almost got to the control arm. Keeping the hand saw at the exact angle so that you cut through the outer sleeve and do not cut into the control arm material was the difficult part of the job. After that I had the new bushing pressed in and that was that.
Got to say this made a world of difference in my 993, it drives like a new car now. I had shaking and play in the steering prior to the fix. Hope it goes well for you.
Here is a pic of the reinstalled ctrl arm.
Got to say this made a world of difference in my 993, it drives like a new car now. I had shaking and play in the steering prior to the fix. Hope it goes well for you.
Here is a pic of the reinstalled ctrl arm.
Last edited by RBP; 04-26-2015 at 10:26 AM.
02-28-2015, 11:52 AM
#35
Drifting
When I had my suspension overhauled I opted for Elephant Racing Sport Bushings in the RS configuration which meant two new bushings per front a-arm and one per rear a-arm. I had a shop do the work and I was a bit blown away by the amount of labor charged. That said, after reading the various DIY accounts of replacing two bushings rather than six, I don't question the amount of labor time anymore.
02-28-2015, 05:30 PM
#36
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People's DIY skills vary dramatically, and so its not surprising you see the "never again!" and "hardest thing I have ever done!" comments mixed with "pretty easy" and "not too bad".... I have done several sets now and I would classify it as pretty easy. I think most people are too tentative to really give that chisel a really good whack, or if you are going to heat up the bushing, heat it up, not warm it up .. 
I still have not used a press for these, I find it pretty easy just to :
- use a good torch to remove the inner metal races - you are NOT trying to melt the rubber out of the arms, you are trying to release the inside sleeves from the bushings so heat the inside bushings until you can pull them loose with a set of slip-locks, then throw them in a pot of water to cool them down
- use a sawzall to remove the rubber bushing, you do not have to be wimpy and lady like here - just cut carve the bugger out. Get your cave man on! You can carve the rubber out right to the inside metal bushings within seconds.
- I use a carbide bit on a die grinder to clean up the inside bushing enough to I can see the metal in order to cut through the inside shell. I always cut on the side facing the arm, so in case I nick the arm material, there is more supporting structure around it so there are no issues.
- once you have a notch, use a ball peen and metal chisel and whack away, you can peel the inner shell out, once it breaks free it will slide out pretty easy.
- the smaller bushings can be pried out easier since they have a shoulder that you can drive a chisel against
- I clean up all the inner pieces on a 8" wire wheel, and then micro-clean with a smaller wheel on a drill and then final clean with emery paper. I also use the emery paper on the inside bores on the A-arms. If I nicked the A arms, things can be smoothed with a die grinder/file and sandpaper
Assembly is snap easy - I use a vice to press stuff together. No need for any fancy presses, it's not needed, the new bushings will push close to home with your fingers or might require a gentle squeeze from the vice.
I do not rush these things, and I budget about 3 hours to remove/retrofit/install both A-arms on a 993. Usually its a bit less, sometimes a bushing is extra resistive and it just takes more hammer time.
Cheers,
Mike
I still have not used a press for these, I find it pretty easy just to :
- use a good torch to remove the inner metal races - you are NOT trying to melt the rubber out of the arms, you are trying to release the inside sleeves from the bushings so heat the inside bushings until you can pull them loose with a set of slip-locks, then throw them in a pot of water to cool them down
- use a sawzall to remove the rubber bushing, you do not have to be wimpy and lady like here - just cut carve the bugger out. Get your cave man on! You can carve the rubber out right to the inside metal bushings within seconds.
- I use a carbide bit on a die grinder to clean up the inside bushing enough to I can see the metal in order to cut through the inside shell. I always cut on the side facing the arm, so in case I nick the arm material, there is more supporting structure around it so there are no issues.
- once you have a notch, use a ball peen and metal chisel and whack away, you can peel the inner shell out, once it breaks free it will slide out pretty easy.
- the smaller bushings can be pried out easier since they have a shoulder that you can drive a chisel against
- I clean up all the inner pieces on a 8" wire wheel, and then micro-clean with a smaller wheel on a drill and then final clean with emery paper. I also use the emery paper on the inside bores on the A-arms. If I nicked the A arms, things can be smoothed with a die grinder/file and sandpaper
Assembly is snap easy - I use a vice to press stuff together. No need for any fancy presses, it's not needed, the new bushings will push close to home with your fingers or might require a gentle squeeze from the vice.
I do not rush these things, and I budget about 3 hours to remove/retrofit/install both A-arms on a 993. Usually its a bit less, sometimes a bushing is extra resistive and it just takes more hammer time.
Cheers,
Mike
02-28-2015, 05:45 PM
#37
Drifting
When I had my suspension overhauled I opted for Elephant Racing Sport Bushings in the RS configuration which meant two new bushings per front a-arm and one per rear a-arm. I had a shop do the work and I was a bit blown away by the amount of labor charged. That said, after reading the various DIY accounts of replacing two bushings rather than six, I don't question the amount of labor time anymore.
03-02-2015, 01:41 PM
#39
Drifting
03-04-2015, 01:28 PM
#40
Rennlist Member
Anyone know the torque specs on the two bolts that attach the control arm?
Much appreciated!
This thread has convinced me to finally tackle this job. Thanks to everyone that contributed know how. If I find any tricks, I'll be sure to let the next guy know.
Much appreciated!
This thread has convinced me to finally tackle this job. Thanks to everyone that contributed know how. If I find any tricks, I'll be sure to let the next guy know.
Last edited by 911F1; 03-04-2015 at 01:30 PM. Reason: typo
