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At the B-pillar slid off the plastic covering to get to this 17mm bolt. The harness bar mounts to these points.

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At this point you have two phillips head screws to remove where the belt goes rolls down into this area above the wheel wheel. This trim piece is cut at rear and simply slid the belt from between the opening.

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Rather than removing the interior trim to remove the belt there is plenty of room above the wheel well to tuck the belt into it. I left the top portion of the metal clip exposed. Just to make sure I stuffed the whole thing into the compartment and still had no problem taking the entire restraint out. So its there for you later if you re-install the old system.

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On to the seats.....I searched and read about everything I could about the stock seats and the removal of them. As others can testify before me, these 6mm allen bolts are just too soft at the hex opening so be very careful when getting them out. Slide the seat forward and you will see two bolts per side in these tracks. Some seats have on one bolt per side from past reading. After these have been removed slide the seat back and get the fronts.

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Now your ready to disconnect the power from the seats. This pic shows the plug in after its disconnect. With the seat forward get a flashlight so you can see what your looking for and with some force start to pull up on this small box looking plug-in. You will notice it moving up so don't worry, there are about 16 prongs on the thing so it takes alittle effort.

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At this point you ready to remove the seats. I taped up the female plug so I could make sure to notice it later if need be and do make sure its out of the way. My car had some history in Colorado and this ticket stub from Pikes Peak Intl. Speedway way found along with a quarter. wow.........

FYI- I have 12 way seats that are heated. They are heavy and I cannot be blamed for one of you guys blowing a ******** out you shorts when you lift them out!!! They weighed in a 64lbs each so get you legs under them and wrestle them out of the car.

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Don't forget to disconnet the seat belt reminder plug on the drivers side only.

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On to the new seat. First install the side mounts. This is the passenger side where I used the 3rd opening down at thre back. On my side I went as far back (4th opening) in the rear and as high in the front. At 6'2' I need the leg and head room, especially w/helmet on.

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I layed my sliders and seat brackets out so you can see what you have to work with. The rectangular bracket and the sliders are Recaro. I was told the sliders are alittle more easy to move forward b/c of the lever. Don't know why I just went with the Recaro mounts as the were the same price and it was recomended. The rectangular bracket has a tab on it (upper left corner). The tab has an opening for the bolt that will be you inside belt. If you go w/o this I am told you will have to drill into the flooring as no factory opening exists as a mounting point for you new belt in this location. In short, the connecting point is on you old seat you just removed.

The other red marks point to the correct mounting points w/this bracket.

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This is a close up of the weld on this tab that I mentioned above for the purpose of you inside belt mounting point. The weld bead was too high as I found out later when I mounted the slider over it. I had tighted things down when I noticed slight bending in the slider over this location and the seat didn't slid right.

I took a Makita dye grinder and took it down some and when I bolted the slider back over this area I used a small washer to lift it slightly as well.

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This is a back view of how things line up. I was instructed to put the bracket (base) then the sliders on top with them being bolted to the side mounts.

As you can see the bracket is sandwiched between the sliders and side mounts in opposite fashion. Any why, because there is not enough room for the tab where you mount the inside harness to fit or properly slide back and forth if its done any other way, that is if you choose not to drill through your floor pan.

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On the right you see the hardware that was sent by Sparco for the belts. The bolt is 1.5 inches and it there just wasn't enough room between the mounted seat and the tranny/carpeted console for this all too fit. On the left is the clip and new M10/ 1 inch bolt and nylock nut. Mount these on the tab before you mount the seat b/c not enough room exists to do it later. I would also thread the belt on this side through the opening too. Ask me how I know!!!

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Another view of the nut/bolt in the slider attached. Again, slider, bracket and then side mounts. The nylock nut is 14mm and the allen bolt is 6mm. The inboard side has to be tighened all the way down before you install the seats b/c no clearance exists on the trans. side. The outside (door) side is loosely attached. This is done b/c some allignment is needed to get them into the factory floor mounts. When things line up you can squeeze a open wrench and a 6mm allen key tool in there to tighten things up.

Difficult to explain, but its adds up when its in front of you.

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Ready for install.

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Pic of the back, note the 14mm nut. Tighten on inside (trans) and loose on the outside (door) so it has some slight flex too it when installing.