hepkat63

Hi Guys,
seems like i have a central locking issue - finding it hard to get my head around!

So, both doors open and shut.
Both doors can be manually locked/unlocked from the inside.
If you are sitting in the car with the doors shut and press the central locking button, the locks go down, then pop straight back up again.
If you get out of the car, shut the doors and then press the actuator, the same thing happens - the doors lock, then unlock themselves again.

Clearly, having the handles off and on again during my door handle drilling process has stuffed something up. I can't work out what though?

Can anyone help please?

Here is a picture of the inside of the door - anything look wrong?

hepkat63

so effectively, I can't lock the car at all from the outside - not with the keys, or the central locking actuator.

ToreB

Check the door (light) switches for proper operation. These are placed in the door sills. You should also check the two switches in the door lock. Connect a ohmmeter to their wires, and see if they are grounded when turning the key in the lock. These wires can be located on the door lock control module under the dashboard passenger side or under the passenger seat. (depending on car model year)
Lock switch is wire colour Brown/Blue (pin 7 on the lock control unit)
Unlock switch is wire colour Brown/Green (pin 9 on the lock control unit)
Cheers,
Tore

hepkat63

thanks Tore. It was working perfectly before I took the handles off

So, I'm guessing it is not the module or light switches - but more to do with the microswitches themselves.

I'm 100% certain that they are all assembled the way that they came out - you can only really put them in one way anyway (as the plastic sleeve has a cut-out that points up when the cylinder is in the right way).

When I turn the key in the lock, it actuates the central locking mechanism - the locks go down in the door , but then come straight back up again. it is the behavior I would expect if the door was OPEN and not closed. So, it is like the central locking system thinks the door is open ? Does that make sense?

ToreB

The door (light) switches are known to fail over time. Check them first. A failing switch will tell the control unit that the doors are open. The behaviour you describe is also typical for failing lock switches.
Cheers,
Tore

hepkat63

I usually have the interior lights off (as I have the doors open so often working on the car !!). I just went up to the shed then and tested the interior lights - they work perfectly as they should from both doors.
When you say failing lock switches, do you mean the micro switches? Why would they stop working all of a sudden after being removed and put back again?

Masher

This seems way too obvious but to me the white wire in your picture looks mashed at the point it passes the seal. I imagine it is just dupirt otherwise you would have noticed it.

Is the micro switch in your photo? I think this has failed on my 944 track car and I have often wondered where this switch is located.

hepkat63

no, the white wire is ok - that's just dirt No, microswitch is out of the photo (around the back of the handle).

It has just come to my memory, that I did have the cylinder in backwards when I first put the barrel back in last week and when I 'snapped' the microswitch back in place, the central locking went off. I then took it apart again and assembled correctly. I wonder if that did anything?

tdiquattro

are both of the lock barrels in the right way round, I mean with the cut out at the microswitch? worth a check. What about unplugging both white lock wires in the doors and trying one at a time?

hepkat63

yes. they are - however, the passenger side one initially was not (see above) - but is now.

hepkat63

so, moving on this issue - still having problems. I took the outer door handle off and removed the microswitch.

I unplugged it from inside the door and hooked up a multimeter to it.

When I test it - both sides show it working. Is it however, pulling enough ohms?

YaHoo!

I suspect it is the white cylinder in the door lock that is positioned incorrectly. The cylinder has a band around it that has a break or divet in it which triggers the microswith to lock and unlock the door. When the cylinder is positioned incorrectly the divet is in the wrong position and the doors will lock and immediately unlock as you describe. Try rotating that cylinder and locking the doors until you find the position where the locks stay down. Make sure the doors are closed when trying this.
Unfortunately I'm on my phone and can't add an arrow to the photo below but the white cylinder is located just below the gold lock pieces on the top part of the lock. It does not appear white in the photo but silver and passes through the black microswitch.

hepkat63

thanks Yahoo - nope, that is correct too. (however, as mentioned above, i initially DID have this in the wrong way - and hence why I thought I might have damaged the microswitch, but it checks out ok with an ohm meter).

hepkat63

So, I rang the guys at the 'local' (well , they are 500kms away...) Porsche dealership and they said it sounds like the Central locking thinks something is open - like the boot, bonnet or doors. They asked me to check the microswitch - which I did on both sides and I believe that they check out ok.

I can order a new microswitch - but it seems kind of pointless, given that these seem to work ok?

I even plugged in Tore's OBD device reader to see if there was any fault codes - but there wasn't.

The guys at the Porsche dealership said it might be the central locking unit defective. But, I am finding hard to see how that could be.

The only thing I know that I did wrong, was initially reassemble the door tumbler upside down (so that the slot was at the bottom) and as soon as I connected the microswitch and I heard it actuate, i realized my mistake, took out the tumber and reversed it as it should be.

ToreB

You have to measure the signals going to the lock control unit. In this way you will be able to check any cabling issues too. Find the Lock control unit and connect your ohmmeter there.
Cheers,
Tore