J richard

Yea pretty nasty stuff. The kernel of hope is the singe post about the tensioners.

The other possibility is the bad oil pump o ring kits that someone mentioned earlier but just trying to think of ideas to exhaust before a complete teardown

rebp911

Before you start stripping don the engine, have you tried a thicker oil?

Porsche have recently introduced a new oil for air cooled engines:

http://www.porsche.com/uk/accessorie...weditions/oil/

Developed by Mobil I believe. The 10W-60 must be worth a try. I think it's aimed at helping to control leaks in older engines, but running thicker at high temperatures must be good for pressures?

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

This HAS been an issue, stemming from QC problems with Victor-Reinze gaskets, seals & O-rings. Even some of the factory ones were slightly too short, causing lack of sufficient oil pressure.

We have not experienced these issues here with our engines since we use another brand & supplier, however I've seen this in other motors sent in for the same problems.

For the OP'er, he should ask the shop about what brand of gasket sets they use and their supplier.

pi5tolpete

I will be discussing with the engine rebuilder first thing tomorrow.

Mezger

Again:

It might be one rod and/or main bearing!

pi5tolpete

Yes it could be. So I'm in the planning stages and starting to ask around for rebuild work. Main bearing, galley plug, all require a complete tear down.

pi5tolpete

The thread takes me right to a spot where they discuss chain tensioners possibly being installed upsidedown. But I feel that this would have been an issue right from the rebuild. But there are nearly 4000 miles since the rebuild and it "only happened" recently. I'm thinking a galley plug let loose.

Vandit

Per this thread, a tensioner installed upside down will tick loudly.
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...ner-noise.html

Assuming you don't mix up the tensioners from side-to-side, it's easy to not install them upside down. Just make sure the nipple with the pinhole is the nipple that is pointing to the cap.

pi5tolpete

Well, I'm getting good at the hemi-manifoldectomy. Out again and I have removed the sender in under 15 minutes. Tomorrow I will get a 18mmx1.5 oil drain plug and drill-tap to a 1/8npt for a flexible and mechanical gauge set up. Failing the success of this next test, I need a loan.

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Assuming for the moment that the mechanical gauge confirms a low oil pressure problem, are you saying that the shop who did the work may not stand behind this?

pi5tolpete

The shop that did the work has a warranty statement of 1 yr OR 20,000 km for regular "non specialized" work. 1 yr was up in May and there are less than 6000 miles on the rebuild. I'm still hoping to work with them.

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

If you can show that its always had low oil pressure for the entire 6K, you have a strong case for them to review what they did.

If this just started happening within the last 1K, thats a different situation and things get more complex. It would then be time to see precisely what parts they used in the rebuild, especially rod bearings.

greg1990964

If the mechanic that did the work has any morals he would stand behind the work. If not call him out. No question.

pi5tolpete

So I found an 18x1.5 mm oil drain plug at my local auto shop. Tossed it in the 1938 South Bend lathe and drilled it to tap a 1/8npt. Threaded in my 12" flex extension and the mechanical gauge on the end. Found a route passed the manifold and the air box, fits nicely actually.



Time for the test.

pi5tolpete

Test confirms the oil pressure is not where it should be. I'll drop the engine, and strip to a short block, then deliver to a nearby engine god.

This sucks.