The silly little question thread ...
#767
In the photo of your car, between the fog lamps and the indicators, you have those 'grey' plastic parts instead of the standard, flat reflectors.
I've seen them on other cars and I would like to get a pair for mine. However, I've struggled to find them. This is probably because I don't know what they are called and so, I can't specify them in search boxes.
What are they called and where can I get some?
Thanks.
#768
Banned
Hay Carumba. So took the car out on a 30 mile jaunt over to Vallejo. Was waiting in line for Costco gas behind two of maybe the stupidest people ever, who couldn't figure out how to 1. pump gas 2. Get their cars to turn on and move out of the way.
Anyway, the car idled for about 4 minutes before I just shut it off and waited another 4 minutes before idiots moved along. When I restarted the ignition wasn't like it typically is (first try, fires up) and was kind of half-assed. It stalled and I restarted, turning the key for a half second longer than I usually need to and the car came to life.
Pull up, pump gas, get chatted up by a couple folks asking about my car. I get back in to restart the car and to avoid embarrassment of having it stall again, I give it a little gas. Engine ROARS everyone thinks I'm a douche.
I do my shopping, come out, car starts up again somewhat anemically, and then the check engine light comes on.
I limp home keeping tabs on the temp and trying to keep the engine under 3K revs.
I noticed that the "return to neutral" is WAY slower than before. Like the gas just keeps coming into the engine even when the gas pedal is not depressed. I made the video to capture what I'm talking about. Any ideas? My first thought was a distributor belt may have finally gone out, but really that's just because it's the only thing I can think at this point. It's almost like I have an extra-heavy flywheel or something all of the sudden. Idle, power, etc are all seemingly normal.
*I've unplugged the battery to reset the codes to see if the problem just disappears*
Possible issues:
Code 1X11 - Supply voltage - NOPE
Code 1X12 - Idle speed contact ground short - NOPE
Code 1X15 - Idle speed contact break - NOPE
Code 1X13 - Full load contact - NOPE
Code 1X14 - Engine temperature sensor II - NOPE
Code 1X21 - Air flow sensor - NOPE
Code 1X22 - Idle speed control activation - NOPE
Code 1X23 - Oxygen regulation stop - NOPE
Code 1X24 - Oxygen sensor - MAYBE
Code 1X25 - Intake air temperature sensor - NOPE
Code 1X31 - Knock sensor I - ?? Filled up with gas?
Code 1X32 - Knock sensor II - ?? Filled up with gas?
Code 1X33 - Control unit faulty, knock computer - Fill up with gas?
Code 1X34 - Hall signal - NOPE
Code 1X41 - Control unit faulty - NOPE
Code 1X43 - Tank venting valve - NOPE
Code 1X44 - Resonance plate - WTF?
Code 1X45 - Check engine warning lamp (it detects it's own errors???) - NOPE.
Code 1X51->56 - Injection valve - injection control unit (one for each injector) - NOPE.
And now it's really acting up with a significantly fluctuating idle from a cold start:
Sherlock Holmes observation: I did have a lot of trouble filling the tank up to 12 gallons today. The cutoff valve on the gas nozzle kept kicking on, and I had to fill up by manually holding the nozzle open and reset it every 10-30 seconds when the cutoff kicked in. When I pulled the nozzle out, there was a more than insiginficant amount of gas that was outside the metal flapper, almost like the gas wasn't flowing down quickly enough. Now I'm thinking Tank Venting Valve or Idle Speed Control activation?
Sucks I don't have a diagnostic computer at home., but lucky I have RL. Will a fouled ISV trigger the check engine light? Planning on doing this:
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-1989...low-meter.html
Anyway, the car idled for about 4 minutes before I just shut it off and waited another 4 minutes before idiots moved along. When I restarted the ignition wasn't like it typically is (first try, fires up) and was kind of half-assed. It stalled and I restarted, turning the key for a half second longer than I usually need to and the car came to life.
Pull up, pump gas, get chatted up by a couple folks asking about my car. I get back in to restart the car and to avoid embarrassment of having it stall again, I give it a little gas. Engine ROARS everyone thinks I'm a douche.
I do my shopping, come out, car starts up again somewhat anemically, and then the check engine light comes on.
I limp home keeping tabs on the temp and trying to keep the engine under 3K revs.
I noticed that the "return to neutral" is WAY slower than before. Like the gas just keeps coming into the engine even when the gas pedal is not depressed. I made the video to capture what I'm talking about. Any ideas? My first thought was a distributor belt may have finally gone out, but really that's just because it's the only thing I can think at this point. It's almost like I have an extra-heavy flywheel or something all of the sudden. Idle, power, etc are all seemingly normal.
*I've unplugged the battery to reset the codes to see if the problem just disappears*
Possible issues:
Code 1X11 - Supply voltage - NOPE
Code 1X12 - Idle speed contact ground short - NOPE
Code 1X15 - Idle speed contact break - NOPE
Code 1X13 - Full load contact - NOPE
Code 1X14 - Engine temperature sensor II - NOPE
Code 1X21 - Air flow sensor - NOPE
Code 1X22 - Idle speed control activation - NOPE
Code 1X23 - Oxygen regulation stop - NOPE
Code 1X24 - Oxygen sensor - MAYBE
Code 1X25 - Intake air temperature sensor - NOPE
Code 1X31 - Knock sensor I - ?? Filled up with gas?
Code 1X32 - Knock sensor II - ?? Filled up with gas?
Code 1X33 - Control unit faulty, knock computer - Fill up with gas?
Code 1X34 - Hall signal - NOPE
Code 1X41 - Control unit faulty - NOPE
Code 1X43 - Tank venting valve - NOPE
Code 1X44 - Resonance plate - WTF?
Code 1X45 - Check engine warning lamp (it detects it's own errors???) - NOPE.
Code 1X51->56 - Injection valve - injection control unit (one for each injector) - NOPE.
And now it's really acting up with a significantly fluctuating idle from a cold start:
Sherlock Holmes observation: I did have a lot of trouble filling the tank up to 12 gallons today. The cutoff valve on the gas nozzle kept kicking on, and I had to fill up by manually holding the nozzle open and reset it every 10-30 seconds when the cutoff kicked in. When I pulled the nozzle out, there was a more than insiginficant amount of gas that was outside the metal flapper, almost like the gas wasn't flowing down quickly enough. Now I'm thinking Tank Venting Valve or Idle Speed Control activation?
Sucks I don't have a diagnostic computer at home., but lucky I have RL. Will a fouled ISV trigger the check engine light? Planning on doing this:
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-1989...low-meter.html
Last edited by dhc905; 11-20-2015 at 12:46 AM.
#769
IHI KING!
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Nashua, New Hampshire, USA
Posts: 13,384
Received 222 Likes
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176 Posts
Rocket Rob.
In the photo of your car, between the fog lamps and the indicators, you have those 'grey' plastic parts instead of the standard, flat reflectors.
I've seen them on other cars and I would like to get a pair for mine. However, I've struggled to find them. This is probably because I don't know what they are called and so, I can't specify them in search boxes.
What are they called and where can I get some?
Thanks.
In the photo of your car, between the fog lamps and the indicators, you have those 'grey' plastic parts instead of the standard, flat reflectors.
I've seen them on other cars and I would like to get a pair for mine. However, I've struggled to find them. This is probably because I don't know what they are called and so, I can't specify them in search boxes.
What are they called and where can I get some?
Thanks.
#26 - 964.505.157.00 01C Protective bar satin black
#28 - 964.505.263.00 01C Cap, bumper guard
#771
Race Car
Thread Starter
I have the 996 buckets with hard backs - just needed the right runners and use different bolt holes vs the 964 seats but they are already there in the body .. Search recaro and brey Krause seat brackets too
#772
Racer
Be careful I've heard that on some installations that when you fold the seat forward and then slide it forward on the seat track the hard back can hit the windshield and crack it. Not a prob with mine.
Maybe you can see the front BK mounts if you zoom in.
#773
Drifting
1) Buy the Brey-Krause adapters
2) Modify the seat rails by following the steps in this thread
#774
Banned
Definitely a silly ?
How do I get these clips off? More accurately, how do I separate M from F for the 4 connectors here? I figured it was pulling up on the top of the clip, but before I break something wanted to make sure. Also watching the Raiders is getting boring, so at least I can clean something in the 'bay.
How do I get these clips off? More accurately, how do I separate M from F for the 4 connectors here? I figured it was pulling up on the top of the clip, but before I break something wanted to make sure. Also watching the Raiders is getting boring, so at least I can clean something in the 'bay.
#775
Race Car
Thread Starter
^ ^ if you mean the clips with the metal spring around them, press the spring down onto the plug
ie don't try remove the spring from the plug (altho I think you can also do it that way, just not as neat)
.. and once the metal is pressed back onto the plug you can pull the M&F plugs apart
ie don't try remove the spring from the plug (altho I think you can also do it that way, just not as neat)
.. and once the metal is pressed back onto the plug you can pull the M&F plugs apart
#776
Banned
Funny, I would have never tried that. I started pulling with my needle nose pliers and thought they wouldn't have made it this difficult. So let me ask in silly question thread...
#777
Race Car
Thread Starter
Lol ... If you read the first post of the thread you'll see another perfect example of the same thing! Your question was perfectly suited