samana76

Hello everyone,

My mechanic, after tediously searching for a persisting oil problem with my engine, discovered that there is a gouge in the cylinder block. He disassemble the engine and is ready to have the cylinders bored. Problem is that he does not know of a machine shop that does this. Also he is a regular mechanic that doesn’t do modifications to cars, so he will not be too aware of what needs to be done after boring the cylinders; for that matter neither do I. So I have a few question for the community here that I hope will point me in the right direction to take in this matter:

- First of all I am in the Bay Area, San Bruno to be exact. Does anyone know of an experienced machine shop that can do this kind of work nearby here?

- Second, what size should the cylinders be bored to? Will the engine become a 2.8L?

- Third, I will need new pistons. I’ve read in another post that Mahle pistons are recommended for a 100.5mm bore because they are 8:1 CR and have the pin moved to accommodate the extra stroke. I don’t know if this applies to my situation though. If so, where is the best place to purchase these? Roughly what would be the cost?

- Fourth, part of this work is covered by warrantee as this mechanic has worked on this car numerous times and failed to solve certain issues. Also I have already put way to much money into this car, so I would like to spend as little as possible to make the engine run perfectly but not upgrading it in any way for power - I just want the problem fixed with the most reliable components. Just so you know what upgrades the car has right now, here is the list:

- 3.0" Fabspeed performance exhaust package
- Tial 38 dual port waste gate
- Rogue's A-Tune Package
- Lindsey Racing manual boost controller
- Autometer Sport Comp Boost gauge
- Innovate Motorsports Air Fuel Ratio gauge with wideband controller and oxygen sensor (correctly installed after the turbo and not in the factory spot)
- Lindsey racing adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator
- New OM O2 sensor and Magnaflow Cat to pass CA smog (the cat can be easily removed)

So after the engine is bored out what NECESSARY and RELIABLE changes (not power upgrades, WYAI stuff, etc.) do I need to do to make the engine run smooth and last a VERY long time?

I thank you all, as always, for dedicating your time in sharing your knowledge. I have consistently received nothing but wonderful advice here.

Igor

blade7

Sorry to say but if you want to spend as little as possible sell the car and don't look back .

67King

You can't just bore these blocks. You have a couple of options, essentially have it sleeved with liners, or have it nikasil'd. Wossner pistons are one of the more popular options, now. If I were you, I'd contact Chris WHite, Racer's Edge, or Lindsey and see about having them supply parts and coordinate the build, as which direction you go will have an impact on piston selection.

Cheapest option would be to try to find a running engine and just swap them.

mtnman82

Another cheap option would be to get ahold of Lart and see if he has a good short block, then have your mechanic assemble with the rest of your parts.

V2Rocket

If you do decide to bore/sleeve the block I've got a set of forged JE pistons that came out of a sleeved 951 race engine.
They are oversize, intended for a bore of about 4" (101.6 or slightly less) but my sleeves are too worn to reliably re-use these pistons.
I'll make you a deal if you want them.

samana76

Thank you all for your suggestions.

I think I will follow mtnman82's suggestion and look for a good short block. I might have found one not too far from me that has been bored to 101.60mm and comes with new JE pistons and rings for $1,200.00.

Do you guys think this is a decent price?

blade7

I'd say who bored that block and decided the spec of the pistons and rings...

mtnman82

Check out this thread too (no affiliation) - looks like a few engine options...

https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...nder-head.html

If the engine with the spun rod bearing has good bores, that might be the absolute cheapest way to go combining your parts and those. I might also look into who built the engine with 5k miles on - that might be your best bang for buck if the build was solid.

333pg333

I'd find out more on that local one with the bored block and JE pistons. Is it sleeved, are they coated pistons? Some people haven't had the greatest success with JE's in these motors.

samana76

Thank you all again for your comments.

mtnman82 - I saw the listing and it looks interesting, however the owner is in Michigan. I think shipping the block here would be too expensive. Thanks for sharing that post, though.

333pg333 - I am waiting reply from the owner of that block to the questions you pointed out. I will keep everyone here posted with his response.

Too everyone. Should I not find a suitable replacement short block, can anyone suggest an experienced machine shop that can do this kind of work here in the bay area?

Thanks.
Igor

FRporscheman

I'm not that far away from you. If you need any help at all, feel free to PM me.

The shop that did my cylinders is Clark's Auto & Marine in Burlingame. Ask for Wes, and tell him Arash sent you.
http://www.yelp.com/biz/clarks-auto-...ine-burlingame

Never let someone work on your engine unless they have done the particular job before. If it's a full rebuild like yours, then find someone who's familiar with 944 engines, or at least Alusil. Mercedes and BMW (and others) also use Alusil. If you wish, Clark's could build the engine. If you want a 944 expert, look up Mike Stimson in San Mateo.

I agree that the simplest/cheapest route is to find a used engine (at least a bottom end / short block). If you really want to rebuild the engine, you could buy a used block which has good cylinders. A good place to start your search for an engine would be Lart (user Lart951).

Let me know if you end up with any engine parts left over, I might be interested.

Good luck.

lejams

Samana, where are you located? I have a 88 turbo S short block with perfect bores that I bought earlier this year from Lart. IIRC, he said it had about 52k on it.

I may not need it after all and would sell it for what I have in it (<$1200.00) + shipping. I'll know within a week whether I need it or not.

samana76

FRporscheman - that's some great info. I actually live in Burlingame (my mechanic and car are in San Bruno). I will get in touch with Clark's Auto & Marine on Monday and see what kind of costs I am looking at if I decide to go that route. I will also contact Lart to see what he has available.

lejams - I might take you up on that offer. I will PM you with my address so you can let me know shipping costs.

Dave W.

Another option is to call PartsHeaven.com They're across the bay in Hayward. GL with the build.

V2Rocket

Make sure you can refinance your mortgage before calling parts heaven.