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Is that o-ring something that should be added to a PM schedule next time the pan is down? At 100k and almost thirty years since my trans was originally assembled, it's due for PM replacement of several external-connection seals next time the pan comes down for ATF service.
Interestingly enough, I do not change this "O-ring" when I do a complete rebuild....it's the only seal I do not touch. I've found getting the thing in and out causes more damage that I can tolerate.....always looks like Kibort worked on it.
If you get a rebuilt transmission from me...there will be a little dab of Drei Bond there.
Semi-retired, as of Feb 1, 2023.
The days of free technical advice are over.
Free consultations will no longer be available.
Will still be in the shop, isolated and exclusively working on project cars, developmental work and products, engines and transmissions.
Have fun with your 928's people!
Got it- thanks for the info. It's not the Reinz stuff. I think I looked for it a few years ago and somehow ended up with this in an order instead.
Originally Posted by GregBBRD
No.
And none of the other sealants mentioned are the same, either.....
It's like clear silicone....except it works much better.
Anything that say "cures faster in the presence of oil" is something that every mechanic should have in their toolbox.
You can get it either from your local Porsche dealer under part number 000-043-203-73 (they call it "Window Adhesive"....ignore that) or your local BMW dealer under part number 07 58 9 062 376. About $20 for a tube.
A word of advice...it cures quickly. Leave the lid off of the tube for only as long as you need to get some out and it will last for a long time.
Works great in the corners of valve covers. I always use it to seal the filler neck to the engine blocks (use the new seal/gasket, too)....as this area is a chronic leaker. Works great around the water outlet areas of the heads. There's a bunch of places that we use it.
Porsche quit using Loctite 574 when assembling the late model 911 water cooled engines and use this, instead. I'm certain that they would use this, if they were installing cradles on the bottom of 928 engines, today.
You ask good questions, Jon. You are an inspiration to all of us over-our-head 928 adventurers. And thanks to Greg and others with Knowledge who patiently help us save these cars.
Was in the Tyson's area for another appointment and dropped by the Porsche dealership. The parts department turned out to be in the Mercedes-Benz dealership right beside it. Gave the parts guy the part number Greg provided, and presto!!....
Their price is $43!! But the look on my face must have been priceless because he quickly reduced it..."But I'll let you have it for $30". I sure hope it doesn't go bad in the tube after I put a bit on the pivot. If likely, I'll consider selling the remainder after confirming the leak is proven to be stopped. If it gets passed on to more than one more person it becomes a "928 Communion".
Wondering if this would leak more if I jacked the front of the car up. I have a similar slow leak somewhere in that area, but notice it became significant when the front was jacked up for a few days. Any thoughts?
Stick your finger up around the yellow thing (Bowden cable base) in the photo I posted at top of this thread. There is an O-ring on it that can leak bad.
Last edited by Captain_Slow; 02-25-2017 at 09:22 PM.
No.
Porsche quit using Loctite 574 when assembling the late model 911 water cooled engines and use this, instead. I'm certain that they would use this, if they were installing cradles on the bottom of 928 engines, today.
Certainly not to hijack the thread, but has anyone sealed a cradle with this?
Thanks
You ask good questions, Jon. You are an inspiration to all of us over-our-head 928 adventurers. And thanks to Greg and others with Knowledge who patiently help us save these cars.
The photo in my original post was taken the morning after I'd run the engine for 30 minutes, then left it to sit overnight. I slowly shifted from park through drive and back to park several times. Next morning I found the leak shown. This morning I again ran the engine for 30 minutes, repeated the shifting, and let it sit for most of the day. I took this photo this evening....It's a little difficult to see the hazy clear silicone, but it is obviously not leaking.
Great Jon- After dabbing some on mine (a little dab 'll do ya) and driving it 350 miles over the weekend I checked it with the mirror. NO LEAKS. Bone dry all over. First time in over 4 years in my ownership the trans has not leaked. Thanks for your post and the suggestions.
It appears my car has caught this disease. I think we'll have Jon give a little seminar on the subject at Camp 928, if his tube of Dreibond is still good.
Don - your experience is the same as mine...even the years of leaking, and also the miles driven without any sign of a leak post Drei Bond. That stuff works as advertised. Very glad this thread helped you solve a very annoying mystery leak.
Greg - thanks for spilling the beans on how you don't try to fix this leak with a seal replacement...and sharing your secret sauce.
Curt - How long are these seminars?....All I got so far is..."Alright everybody hold out your finger..."
Why wait for this leak to start...apply some Drei Bond today.
02-22-2017, 10:33 PM
