Alan

Not yet - it is finally cool enough here to venture into the garage, however work is busier than ever and I need to get my car in for some repairs (slight power steering leak and clutch is making some weird noises).

I will get back to it at least over the holidays, maybe at thanksgiving.

BTW one update - the key busted on the keyhead remote at the drilled hole... To repair I needed to braze material onto the head end, file it to the perfect shape & thickness for fit - then drill it again. It has been great since then, but even with the original 'Ruf' keys you will need to have some brazing/high temp silver solder skills to make this work robustly.

Alan

Alan

Here is the exampe of the extra metal on the Huf head to make a secure attachment. You could weld or braze to do this & then file to profile to get this done. Makes it quite a lot more work for most folks.

See the original filed & drilled version vs the final workable solution..

Alan

DKWalser

Alan -- That's interesting. The original design appeared to be stronger. Why, do you suppose, was their a need to go with the modified design to get a workable solution?

Alan

I think you need to read all the context here. This is me adapting the 'huf' Porsche original key blades (by snapping off and grinding off the remnants of the Porsche keyhead, then truncating the length and thinning the blade. This is to adapt the blade to an after market (KE remote) key head that has no Porsche 928 key options (none do, the market is too small - in fact no Porsche options at all).

The initial trial I did simply snapped at the drilled hole after a few months, it needed reinforcement - more material where there simply isn't any on the stock head - as shown in the second attempt. The second version is totally secure and I'm sure will now last the life of the key head. Quite doable but more work.

Alan

DKWalser

Alan -- Thanks for the clarification. From what you had originally wrote, I thought the picture on the left was of the final version and the one on the left was of the version that didn't work.

skpyle

Hello Alan,

Based on what you have posted, and my inflated opinion of my own abilities, I have purchased the keyless entry system from the ebay link. I will source a pair of key blanks to be modified then cut. I will pore over your keyless entry threads again and slowly figure out how to integrate the keyless entry system in to my 1986.5.

After I fix the central locking...

Alan

Yes get the car working normally in stock form first or you will be chasing your tail never knowing the cause..

Alan

skpyle

Thanks. I went ahead and ordered the system so I would have it onhand to tinker with over time.

I am not even going to try to install it until everything is ready. Key blanks, wiring diagram generated, central locking fixed, etc...

Simon928

For anyone who is thinking about installing the unit that Alan referenced at the beginning of this thread (with the integrated fob and key stem) I can give it a hearty recommendation. With Alan's extensive help I have installed this unit on my 1990 S4 and I now have working keyless entry on both of my doors and also on the hatch. Great value for a $30 purchase, as keyless entry was probably the modern amenity that I missed the most on my car.

For anyone who is a noob like me and wants to install this unit on their 1990 I made up a little guide to help you along. You can see the quick notes below, but if you want a more extensive guide you can see my pdf which outlines a lot of the procedures in more detail.

Many thanks to Alan for his generous help in getting this working on my car!

Orange – Unused
White (Lock/Arm) to Additional Alarm Relay (in console) Brown/Red wire
Yellow to Ground
Orange/Black - Unused
White/Black (Unlock/Disarm) to Additional Alarm Relay (in console) Brown/Green wire
Yellow/Black to Ground
Black to Ground
Red to always on battery power
Brown1 to T22
Brown2 to T13
Green – Unused

For hatch release (this should work but didn't for me, perhaps due to a fault in module):
Red/Black wire to S11
Pink wire to U11

Instead of doing the above I bypassed the red/black wire and used a 53 relay and hooked it up as follows:

85: Connect to pink wire from KE module
30 & 86: Connect to unswitched power
87: Connect to S11

In order to get the hatch release to work with the module you also have to cut the brown/white wire that is connected to your hatch release motor and connect it to a permanent ground. I connected mine to the same post as the battery ground strap behind the tool tray.

Madturk

Cool project.
But why not go totally keyless??
Sean has my car and a keyless system that I provided. He may try to make the system work in my car, I hope. I am sure he'll be happy to input his wisdom if he tackles this after many electrical issues I have.
This system is great. You approach the car the doors unlock automatically, get in hit the start button and go. When you walk away from the car it automatically locks the doors and raises the windows. No more key. Just a remote you carry in your pocket. You won't even need that cool key chain you have
I had the same system installed in my 964 and works beautifully. The installer didn't have any difficulties installing. Unfortunately, he disappeared before I could have him install it in the 928.
I have my fingers crossed.

skpyle

Simon928, thanks for the post and the pdf file!

That will go a long way in getting the same system installed in my 1986.5.

I appreciate it!

jwyatt8171

Gee, thanks simon928! Now I have no excuses not to install mine in my '90 S4. You made it easy!
Really though. I will be tackling this project in the next few weeks. Thanks for the instructions.

hacker-pschorr

Is this good for any other years or just 90?

Your project sounds like fun and will be really nice once completed. Personally though, I would never introduce something into the ignition system. It adds another variable to account for when the car refuses to start or some other electrical gremlin pops up.

Simon928

No problems everyone! Alan is the one who figured everything out, so since he did all of the heavy lifting I figured that the least I could do was pass his info along to the community.

Regarding whether or not this guide will work on any other model years, my guess is that there will be some overlap but I doubt it would be exactly the same. I figure that if you had a 1990 wiring diagram and could see the functions of the wires that I tapped into you could look and find the corresponding wires on a wiring diagram for your own model year. I'm not that great with wiring diagrams myself, but if you were a little more knowledgable than me that process would probably work.

Mike B

Any details on the system you've had success with?