Worn out rear tires in 900 miles
#16
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I find this rather interesting as I am about to replace the front shocks on my 928.
Removing the lower control arm will alter the alignment, even more so if I have to replace the lower ball joints.
So if you go with the 100 miles to settle drive, you are driving around for 100 miles scrubbing your tires with a crooked steering wheel? Let alone the problems of keeping the car straight as the wonky alignment angles pull the car all over the road. This doesn't seem like the way to go about it.
Removing the lower control arm will alter the alignment, even more so if I have to replace the lower ball joints.
So if you go with the 100 miles to settle drive, you are driving around for 100 miles scrubbing your tires with a crooked steering wheel? Let alone the problems of keeping the car straight as the wonky alignment angles pull the car all over the road. This doesn't seem like the way to go about it.
#17
Administrator - "Tyson"
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Follow the factory procedure and pull the car down to ride height while on the alignment equipment:
https://rennlist.com/forums/11159541-post25.html
How many of you ever consider having ballast in the drivers seat during an alignment? Next time you have your car aligned, when it's all done (and the equipment is still attached) climb behind the wheel and see how much (if any) the numbers on the screen change.
#18
Nordschleife Master
...How many of you ever consider having ballast in the drivers seat during an alignment? Next time you have your car aligned, when it's all done (and the equipment is still attached) climb behind the wheel and see how much (if any) the numbers on the screen change.
I did the same when aligning my front lights.
#19
Burning Brakes
I find this rather interesting as I am about to replace the front shocks on my 928.
Removing the lower control arm will alter the alignment, even more so if I have to replace the lower ball joints.
So if you go with the 100 miles to settle drive, you are driving around for 100 miles scrubbing your tires with a crooked steering wheel? Let alone the problems of keeping the car straight as the wonky alignment angles pull the car all over the road. This doesn't seem like the way to go about it.
Removing the lower control arm will alter the alignment, even more so if I have to replace the lower ball joints.
So if you go with the 100 miles to settle drive, you are driving around for 100 miles scrubbing your tires with a crooked steering wheel? Let alone the problems of keeping the car straight as the wonky alignment angles pull the car all over the road. This doesn't seem like the way to go about it.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-carriers.html
James
#20
I find this rather interesting as I am about to replace the front shocks on my 928.
Removing the lower control arm will alter the alignment, even more so if I have to replace the lower ball joints.
So if you go with the 100 miles to settle drive, you are driving around for 100 miles scrubbing your tires with a crooked steering wheel? Let alone the problems of keeping the car straight as the wonky alignment angles pull the car all over the road. This doesn't seem like the way to go about it.
Removing the lower control arm will alter the alignment, even more so if I have to replace the lower ball joints.
So if you go with the 100 miles to settle drive, you are driving around for 100 miles scrubbing your tires with a crooked steering wheel? Let alone the problems of keeping the car straight as the wonky alignment angles pull the car all over the road. This doesn't seem like the way to go about it.
I have done it after a shop ruined my alignment (damage was done anyway) and every time minor adjustment is needed (mainly ride height changes) or to check periodically everything is in place.
If one suspect major misalignment, one has to align before road test; pulling the car down with a sling, which forces you to use an elevator and slip plates. No shortcut there other than what James suggests (that I never tried, but seems easy and accurate enough).
Or, you can align no matter what ride height you have, ensuring semi decent alignment in the first miles, take a ride and iterate. That's what I would do, probably.
#23
Chronic Tool Dropper
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For the "turntable" function, I add a beam splitter to the laser, point it straight down, and tape a sheet of paper with plus and minus 30º lines printed on it. Attach the angle gauge, calculate caster, and subtract the garage floor slope for the final reading. Except for the caster measurement, you can forego the slippery bags and just roll the car a few feet fore and aft after each adjustment. It's not as fast as having the tires 'free', but in the end it works fine.
The DIY alignment thread probably needs some updating, lots of little refinements and new methods have been discussed in the years since it ws originally written. Many members have come up with elegant and ingenious ways to get the job done. Jim M. in Texas built a fixture that uses a rotary laser on each wheel, for instance. Lots of people still use strings and a pocket scale for toe setting. Some 'commercial' setups are perhaps more elegant in the bracketry, and one suggests that their lasers are better because they have sharper dots than "construction-grade" laser levels, but in the end the best method is the one that works best for you.
#24
You can call me Otis
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before my 4 wheel alignment, I had no problem breaking traction and launching slideways from a stoplight, got new treads and the alignment, tires wear even and last longer, no more slideways launches, better grip.