SQLGuy

Seems a common question: whether it's possible to remove the water bridge without removing the manifold. I've both "Yes" and "No" answers on here.

For my car, a 1988 S4 5-speed, (plastic oil filler), I can say the answer is mostly yes.

The reason it's not a solid yes is that I still had to loosen the mounting bolts of the oil filler before I could lift the water bridge enough to free it from the block.

Steps I did:

1. Remove the lower radiator hose
2. Remove the FPR and the fuel line that links the two rails in front
3. Remove the breather hose to the side of the oil filler
4. Disconnect the wires from the temp sensors
5. Loosen and remove the PS water bridge bolts and the front DS one. Loosen as much as possible the rear DS one (can't get it out without removing the bridge). Had to use a 6mm ball end allen driver for the DS bolts.
6. Pull the bridge up and forward as much as possible so that the two 10mm bolts that hold the oil filler in place can be seen. If necessary (it was on mine) use a screwdriver to move the hose clamps that may be blocking the PS bolt.
7. Using a couple of 1/4" ratchet extensions and a 1/4" U-joint, and a 10mm socket, loosen the oil filler base bolts three or four turns. For me, this provided enough play that I could get the water bridge out (need to replace the seals, as it was seeping a bit).

Mrmerlin

cool pictures
i guess you have already installed these parts back.

I was going to suggest to use anti seize on the new water bridge bolts .
Use Dow Corning on the WB O ring.

And since you have access to the oil fill spout remove it clean it,
and use Hondabond on the O ring seal, be generous with it.

Note 928 INTL makes a nice oil block off baffle that fits neatly under the oil fill tube not a bad idea to limit oil being thrown up the bottom of the oil spout.
The Hondabond should keep the spout seal area dry.

I have a replaced these O rings numerous times only to find after a few thousand mile the seam is wet with oil after using the hondabond no leaks YMMV

SQLGuy

Thanks.

No, not yet.

OK.

Dow Corning what? I'm planning to use silicone grease. I use it on most O-rings.

No, and no. First of all, I don't really have access to it. It's loosened enough to get the water bridge out, but I would still have a hard time removing it, and the hoses attached to it, without removing the manifold. Second, I don't have any Hondabond, or Yamabond on hand, and I'd have to leave the car apart an extra week (I'm out of town next week), if I were to order some.

Porsche changed the design of the under-spout baffle themselves at some point. When I redid the intake on my '85, Mark suggested putting in the later model... thing. Originally, the '85 was just open with an O-ring under the spout, the later setup is an aluminum plate with some louvers and an O-ring embedded in it. Not sure when this change was made. Maybe coincidentally with the switch from aluminum to plastic for the filler spout?

SQLGuy

After further analysis, I actually do think I could get the filler out without too much drama. I also have a new O-ring on hand. Looks like Porsche added the baffle plate in there starting with the GTS.

Still don't have any [Japanese bike]abond, but I have some decent other gasket stuff I may add to the O-ring.

SQLGuy

And one more update. I was guessing that the GTS was when them made the baffle plate change because the filler O-ring is for 85-91, but here's what the underside of my oil filler looks like. And, also, here's a picture under the manifold to show another idle valve without clamps on the valve end of the hoses.

Lizard928

You can get hondabond, or yamabond at the bike dealerships.

You want #4. I would also recommend that reseal it or it will be leaking on you.

I also ALWAYS use hondabond/yamabond on mine and all that I work on.

As well, seeing how no one has mentioned it. Your upper cross brace is REALLY bent.
Some people say this happens from hard cornering. I have tracked all my cars, including running 11" wide slicks. I also have run with bilstein/eibach, and Koni/2.5" racing springs with 1000# springs in the front. Yet I have never bent on of the factory bars....... But you may consider straightening yours, or getting a new one.

Lizard928

That baffle plate is factory on all S4s.

I would also recommend for all those looking at this to drain the coolant via the block drains before doing this. So that you dont dump coolant into your crankcase.

I have removed a number of water bridges without removing or loosening the filler neck. It just requires a little more wiggling.

SQLGuy

The is probably some variance in parts used. There is no way this water bridge was coming out without loosening the filler neck. The lower lip of the main joint would not clear the block. Did the ones that you removed have plastic or metal filler necks?

As for the *abond. Yes, I know you can get it at bike dealerships. But today is Sunday, and no company that ever transfers vehicle titles is allowed to be open in Colorado on Sunday.

I used Permatex Form-a-gasket #2. Like Yamabond, it is a non-hardening chemical (including gasoline) resistant gasket compound.

fraggle

What a weird law. Thanks for the pics and info!

Mrmerlin

OK I see its going back together,
the part that 928 INTL sells actually is a plate that goes down into the block crater and stops the oil from hitting the underside of the oil fill tube ,
with this part in it would raise the fill spout some.
but i think it would still be difficult to fit the WB unless the spout was loose.

Any rate the permatex sealant should work,
I hope you were generous with it for the oil spout,
NOTE the plastic spout over time will bend slightly in the middle and with no other sealant besides the O ring it will leak as it has oil being flung at the seam the whole time the engine is running.
The silicone grease will work fine for the WB O ring

The Dow Corning 111 is non setting silicone sealant, also good for using on the rubber seals along the bottom of the window openings on the doors and the hatch seal to keep it pliable

Bill Ball

That's fine. Another good alternative is Permatex's Hylomar.