How-to: Proper Budget Rear Coilover
#31
Today I got
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Thanks much MAGK, figured you could answer my questions. So 300# rear with tortion delete would be a lil stiffer than stock and match my current 200# up front nicely? Did some researching, I don't think I've ever seen somebody do a torsion delete with less than 400#?
#33
Burning Brakes
Search for Van's post on calculating spring rate on torsion bars vs coilovers, quite a good explanation.
#34
Nordschleife Master
I'm running 200F/350R coilovers on one of my (street) cars and it works for me but I only have one comparison to go by, the rest is theory.
#36
Has there been an update from robstahs suspension part 2 thread?
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...-part-2-a.html
I searched around but didn't see any details on how the torsion bar delete worked with those coils.
I'm planning on building some of these soon but if I could do a torsion bar delete I would much prefer that over a TB/coil combo. Aside from the custom spacer, it doesn't look like that would cost much more than the coil build in this thread.
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...-part-2-a.html
I searched around but didn't see any details on how the torsion bar delete worked with those coils.
I'm planning on building some of these soon but if I could do a torsion bar delete I would much prefer that over a TB/coil combo. Aside from the custom spacer, it doesn't look like that would cost much more than the coil build in this thread.
#37
Yes, early 944 steel arm has been figured out. I assume you are talking rear suspension. I have the coil-over kits, springs, and an entire torsion bar delete rear carrier that will fit an early 944. Or you can get just the early shock coil-over kits from me and buy lower spring rate springs to use with your current torsion bars. Although I don't know what the advantage of keeping your torsion bars is, as you'll still only get to lower as far as the eccentric will let you without re-indexing the torsion bars.
But, back to the program. PM me if interested in the coil-overs and/or torsion carrier. I used that set up for years in DE. The car handled great.
But, back to the program. PM me if interested in the coil-overs and/or torsion carrier. I used that set up for years in DE. The car handled great.
#38
Today I got
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Wait, so the original posted guide will work on an early car won't it? Since you're modifying a strut that will fit, the whole idea can work on any year 944, right?
Also I'm gonna leave an earlier thread on this topic here for future reference.
https://rennlist.com/rennforums/showthread.php?t=695547
Also I'm gonna leave an earlier thread on this topic here for future reference.
https://rennlist.com/rennforums/showthread.php?t=695547
#39
Rennlist Member
Great write, and thread!
I have a couple of questions, if you don't mind.
First: I currently have the Koni sports on my S2, with the adjustable-height struts up front (200-lb. springs) and sports shocks in the rear. It seemed one of the posts noted it wouldn't be a good idea to run the Koni's up front and the Bilsteins in the rear. Did I read that right? Different valving, I guess?
Second: I may be completely mis-understanding how the forces on these coilovers act, but it seems to me the force of the spring is acting on the bottom perch, which is attached to the threaded sleeve, which is all sitting on the snap ring. Do I have that right? And if I do, is there no worry about the snap ring failing? (There doesn't seem to be a whole lot of area there.)
Thanks for any/all information!
I have a couple of questions, if you don't mind.
First: I currently have the Koni sports on my S2, with the adjustable-height struts up front (200-lb. springs) and sports shocks in the rear. It seemed one of the posts noted it wouldn't be a good idea to run the Koni's up front and the Bilsteins in the rear. Did I read that right? Different valving, I guess?
Second: I may be completely mis-understanding how the forces on these coilovers act, but it seems to me the force of the spring is acting on the bottom perch, which is attached to the threaded sleeve, which is all sitting on the snap ring. Do I have that right? And if I do, is there no worry about the snap ring failing? (There doesn't seem to be a whole lot of area there.)
Thanks for any/all information!
#41
Three Wheelin'
Great write, and thread!
I have a couple of questions, if you don't mind.
First: I currently have the Koni sports on my S2, with the adjustable-height struts up front (200-lb. springs) and sports shocks in the rear. It seemed one of the posts noted it wouldn't be a good idea to run the Koni's up front and the Bilsteins in the rear. Did I read that right? Different valving, I guess?
Second: I may be completely mis-understanding how the forces on these coilovers act, but it seems to me the force of the spring is acting on the bottom perch, which is attached to the threaded sleeve, which is all sitting on the snap ring. Do I have that right? And if I do, is there no worry about the snap ring failing? (There doesn't seem to be a whole lot of area there.)
Thanks for any/all information!
I have a couple of questions, if you don't mind.
First: I currently have the Koni sports on my S2, with the adjustable-height struts up front (200-lb. springs) and sports shocks in the rear. It seemed one of the posts noted it wouldn't be a good idea to run the Koni's up front and the Bilsteins in the rear. Did I read that right? Different valving, I guess?
Second: I may be completely mis-understanding how the forces on these coilovers act, but it seems to me the force of the spring is acting on the bottom perch, which is attached to the threaded sleeve, which is all sitting on the snap ring. Do I have that right? And if I do, is there no worry about the snap ring failing? (There doesn't seem to be a whole lot of area there.)
Thanks for any/all information!
Cheers,
Mike
#42
Today I got
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Rennlist Member
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Has there been an update from robstahs suspension part 2 thread?
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...-part-2-a.html
I searched around but didn't see any details on how the torsion bar delete worked with those coils.
I'm planning on building some of these soon but if I could do a torsion bar delete I would much prefer that over a TB/coil combo. Aside from the custom spacer, it doesn't look like that would cost much more than the coil build in this thread.
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...-part-2-a.html
I searched around but didn't see any details on how the torsion bar delete worked with those coils.
I'm planning on building some of these soon but if I could do a torsion bar delete I would much prefer that over a TB/coil combo. Aside from the custom spacer, it doesn't look like that would cost much more than the coil build in this thread.
#43
hello,
i came across this write up and without any doubt it is great and shows our ability to innovate - great job!
now i'm going to spoil a good with something ridiculous ...
i'm looking to do this, but can't seem to understand or get around this as stated above ...
"I wish Bilstein would get their act together and make front struts for the later cars (87+.) ..." Justin S2
What do i do if i want bilsteins all around? what is the solution for the front struts?
since i don't have them physically, can bilstein front inserts they be put in another brand of struts or a hack similar to the koni coilover hacks?
any feedback is appreciated.
thanks.
i came across this write up and without any doubt it is great and shows our ability to innovate - great job!
now i'm going to spoil a good with something ridiculous ...
i'm looking to do this, but can't seem to understand or get around this as stated above ...
"I wish Bilstein would get their act together and make front struts for the later cars (87+.) ..." Justin S2
What do i do if i want bilsteins all around? what is the solution for the front struts?
since i don't have them physically, can bilstein front inserts they be put in another brand of struts or a hack similar to the koni coilover hacks?
any feedback is appreciated.
thanks.
#44
for give me if I missed it, but if you have Konis on the rear can this still work?
Also, why dont they just put a lip on the top of the threaded body instead so it can just sit on top of the shock body? then just bond it on.
also If my car weighs 2300lbs, what would be a reasonable rate for the rear(with TB delete) if the fronts are 300?
Also, why dont they just put a lip on the top of the threaded body instead so it can just sit on top of the shock body? then just bond it on.
also If my car weighs 2300lbs, what would be a reasonable rate for the rear(with TB delete) if the fronts are 300?
#45
for give me if I missed it, but if you have Konis on the rear can this still work?
Also, why dont they just put a lip on the top of the threaded body instead so it can just sit on top of the shock body? then just bond it on.
also If my car weighs 2300lbs, what would be a reasonable rate for the rear(with TB delete) if the fronts are 300?
Also, why dont they just put a lip on the top of the threaded body instead so it can just sit on top of the shock body? then just bond it on.
also If my car weighs 2300lbs, what would be a reasonable rate for the rear(with TB delete) if the fronts are 300?
As for spring rate on your setup, I would go with 400 on the rear without the tbs, I'm running 400 with torsion bars in my street car and it's pretty stiff, but hey, it's my fun car and not daily. Next weekend I will be deleting my tb's and running the 400's with my 300 in the front...until I go to 5 in the front, then I have a set of 600 for the rear. I have talked to others running coils all the way around and they like 100lbs more in the rear, seems to get rid of any understeer.