odonnell

I was installing the coupler sleeve the other day and noticed that the torque tube shaft was butted up against the trans input shaft, no space between them at all. I remember the last time I installed it, there was a couple millimeters. Because it is too close the bolts which clamp down the couple sleeve do not align in the grooves on the shafts. The sleeve moves over so it's aligned at least.

Bolts I'm referring to:




What are my options for moving the shaft back into the clutch center besides removing the trans and sliding back the torque tube? Just finished putting that all back together.

Speaking of that, here's how it probably got pushed back. I was installing the torque tube and engaged the splines into the clutch center and began to push it in. Although I used a clutch alignment tool and put a little moly grease on the splines, it wasn't wanting to push in completely (although the splines were engaged). It was close enough that the 4x bolts that hold the TT to the bellhousing would start, so I threaded them a little at a time, alternating until it slowly drew the TT in. The clutch works (I had a friend operate the clutch while I spun the TT shaft from the rear) but it's apparent the TT shaft isn't forward all the way.

arthropraxis

Mine did that on one of my clutch swaps. So, I put a bock of wood on the end of the shaft and hit it with a heavy hammer until it was in the right amount. The trans axle had to be dropped to do this, of course. Maybe not the best way, but it worked.

odonnell

That sounds like the right idea. I'll be doing that if I can't get it with the trans still on. At this point my driveline has a revolving door attached, so if I need to take it apart whatever, it's just a mild annoyance at this point.

Current idea #1: Slide the coupler sleeve onto the TT shaft, and install the bolt that clamps the sleeve to the torque tube shaft and use a pry bar to move the entire assembly closer to the bellhousing (the coupler serves as an application point). Only concern is that the fulcrum for the pry bar will be the torque tube "bellhousing" which I don't trust (reason I had to replace TT last year - it cracked).

Current idea #2: partially undo the 4 bolts holding the trans onto the torque tube so there is a gap between the two shafts. Then insert a spacer of some sort and tighten the bolts, which should force the TT shaft forward. This seems good in theory but we'll see. I tried using a flathead to pry back the shaft but there is ZERO space.

Techno Duck

I used a a gear puller.. had to get a bit creative to hold it on.

pdxfj

I like the gear puller idea since you can gently press the drive line in further. I would be worried about damaging the pilot bearing using anything to hammer on it with. Last thing you want to do is take everything apart because of a damaged bearing.

Just my 2c thought..

FRporscheman

I wouldn't hammer it, could very easily mess up the pilot bearing.

I've had this problem a few times and I always fix it with a screwdriver between the 2 shafts. Never needed too much force.

Van

I line up the coupler hole so I can put the the front most bolt in, then I use a large prybar to move the coupler and drive shaft until the rear hole lines up.

V2Rocket

now THAT is creative !!

odonnell

Wow, easiest fix ever, it slid back easily with the pry bar. Thanks all!

joeystanker

Very cool

odonnell

aaaand the threads on the bolt are botched from when I first attempted to install it the other day. New bolt is in the mail from Pelican now, after realizing by trial and error that an ordinary M10x1.5 bolt from the hardware store won't work because of a recess on the coupler flange. So many stupid things popping up at every turn.

joeystanker

Doh, stupid things. Don't I know it :-)

JacRyann

You don't have the coupler in the right location if a straight bolt won't fit. There's a groove in the driveshaft that should line up with the bolt-hole in the coupler.

odonnell

The problem was the head of the bolt, there is a shoulder in the flange where the head rests. After a couple turns this interferes with a 17mm hex head, so an internal drive like Allen or torx must be used. I got the OEM part which annoys me because it's $10 + shipping for literally a bolt. And I replaced both last year when I replaced my torque tube and transaxle.

lovemyp-car

+944

I've done this multiple times to properly align the shafts...


Good luck!
Ethan