Early to Late 944 Fan Swap
#17
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
By the way guys, just so you all know, the change in the lower radiator hose in 85.5 was to clear the later fan assembly. Cutting the fan blades to fit works, but swapping in the late lower radiator hose is the proper (and pretty inexpensive, new hose is 15-20 bucks) way to put 6 blade fans in an early car.
I've got late NA silicone hoses from LR but they do not fit. I've got a late block in an early car. Any ideas?
#20
By the way guys, just so you all know, the change in the lower radiator hose in 85.5 was to clear the later fan assembly. Cutting the fan blades to fit works, but swapping in the late lower radiator hose is the proper (and pretty inexpensive, new hose is 15-20 bucks) way to put 6 blade fans in an early car.
The hose was $32 iirc vs the $17 uro. Worth it.
Edit, the turbo/s2 use a different hose than the NA anyways, I'll leave the post here for future reference, but it doesn't apply to NAs I imagine.
#23
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Since it's relevant, I did some work today with my cooling system.
I swapped in the new thermofan switch. I couldn't swap in the new(URO) hose I purchased for an '87 944(I assumed any later year would work) because I soon realized after trying to trim it to fit many times, it wasn't happening unless I somehow got a Turbo hose by accident, assuming that it's too different to use.
So I took passenger side 6-blade and swapped it for the 3-blade fan on the original assembly to make the original hose work. Got everything back together not too long ago, bled and topped off the coolant, and even though the head broke off the bleed screw, it's staying a millimeter ahead of the middle tick now. It's no longer overheating in my driveway.
How the heck do I remove the broken bolt screw without it having a head?
I swapped in the new thermofan switch. I couldn't swap in the new(URO) hose I purchased for an '87 944(I assumed any later year would work) because I soon realized after trying to trim it to fit many times, it wasn't happening unless I somehow got a Turbo hose by accident, assuming that it's too different to use.
So I took passenger side 6-blade and swapped it for the 3-blade fan on the original assembly to make the original hose work. Got everything back together not too long ago, bled and topped off the coolant, and even though the head broke off the bleed screw, it's staying a millimeter ahead of the middle tick now. It's no longer overheating in my driveway.
How the heck do I remove the broken bolt screw without it having a head?
#24
Rennlist Member
Karl..It depends on how much is left sticking out of the fitting. Vice grips might be an answer, but you might have to resort to removing the water outlet fitting, and drilling out the bleeder screw/bolt. If that happens use a left handed bit (yes, there is such a thing) as this will tend to run the bolt out due to the direction of the bit. Once you get through the bolt the first time, keep enlarging the size of the bit, untell there is just a shell of the bolt remaining. Then you can knock the sidewall of the bolt inward, releasing the pressure, and probably remove it with long nose pliers. BTW, you'll need a new gasket for the water outlet fitting. hope this helps some...