Steering Wheel grease?
01-30-2015, 09:07 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Steering Wheel grease?
So, I removed my steering wheel to clean and redye, and fix my horn. There was some nasty grease on the copper ring at the bottom, so I cleaned that off. I've reassembled, and the wheel looks much better, and now the horn works!
The problem is that it is making a little noise while turning - I assume the grease was there for a reason? Can I just put some dielectric grease on the ring, or do I need some special 'Porsche Steering Wheel Grease' ?
Thanks!
pf
The problem is that it is making a little noise while turning - I assume the grease was there for a reason? Can I just put some dielectric grease on the ring, or do I need some special 'Porsche Steering Wheel Grease' ?
Thanks!
pf
02-04-2015, 12:21 PM
#5
Rennlist Member
Wrong. Dielectric grease is non conductive. You need to use a conductive grease so the horn will make contact. Dielectric is probably what was on it that you cleaned off and that is why it didn't work.
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02-04-2015, 11:00 PM
#8
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OK, what's the consensus conductive, or non-conductive grease. Haven't been into that area of the car, but from the description, I assume the device is question is a slip ring. If so, seems like we'd need conductive grease.
02-04-2015, 11:22 PM
#9
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Thread Starter
OP here - thanks for all the input! I'm getting tired of pulling and reinstalling the wheel, especially in this weather - just had a little blizzard in Chicago. Can't answer the question myself, but I can report a bit:
It is currently working with dielectric grease. I can see the point about using a conductive grease, if you can find one, although you'd want to apply sparingly, so you don't create a short and have the horn stuck on. There is a copper ring at the back of the steering wheel, which is a pressure fit to a copper tab on the steering column. The ring is connected to the horn pad via jumper wire. This should create a constant connection to the horn pad, and pressing the horn pad completes the circuit.
It would appear my problems were due to dirty and corroded copper and dirty grease on top of it. Cleaning them up fixed the problem, but the wheel would sometimes squeak while turning, so now I know what the grease was for!
I would conjecture that about any grease would work, once your copper surfaces are clean and shiny. The pressure fit should cut through the grease, and the grease is just there for lubrication. Dielectric makes sense to me, as I believe it should protect the copper. However, if it goes out again, I'll look for something conductive. Probably over-thinking this!
I had the wheel out to redye with the Leatherique kit - my skill are limited, but it was pretty beat on top before. Even with my amateur prep and redye, it looks 100% better! I decided to forgo the clear cote step, as it ended up with a nice semi-gloss look that I felt looked Porsche-y.
Thanks
pf
It is currently working with dielectric grease. I can see the point about using a conductive grease, if you can find one, although you'd want to apply sparingly, so you don't create a short and have the horn stuck on. There is a copper ring at the back of the steering wheel, which is a pressure fit to a copper tab on the steering column. The ring is connected to the horn pad via jumper wire. This should create a constant connection to the horn pad, and pressing the horn pad completes the circuit.
It would appear my problems were due to dirty and corroded copper and dirty grease on top of it. Cleaning them up fixed the problem, but the wheel would sometimes squeak while turning, so now I know what the grease was for!
I would conjecture that about any grease would work, once your copper surfaces are clean and shiny. The pressure fit should cut through the grease, and the grease is just there for lubrication. Dielectric makes sense to me, as I believe it should protect the copper. However, if it goes out again, I'll look for something conductive. Probably over-thinking this!
I had the wheel out to redye with the Leatherique kit - my skill are limited, but it was pretty beat on top before. Even with my amateur prep and redye, it looks 100% better! I decided to forgo the clear cote step, as it ended up with a nice semi-gloss look that I felt looked Porsche-y.
Thanks
pf
02-05-2015, 09:59 AM
#11
Rennlist Member
From the Wikipedia article about dielectric grease:
(bold emphasis is mine)
Dielectric grease is electrically insulating and does not break down when high voltage is applied. It is often applied to electrical connectors, particularly those containing rubber gaskets, as a means of lubricating and sealing rubber portions of the connector without arcing.
A common use of dielectric grease is in high-voltage connections associated with gasoline engine spark plugs. The grease is applied to the rubber boot of the plug wire. This helps the rubber boot slide onto the ceramic insulator of the plug. The grease also acts to seal the rubber boot, while at the same time preventing the rubber from becoming stuck to the ceramic. Generally spark plugs are located in areas of high temperature, and the grease is formulated to withstand the temperature range expected. It can be applied to the actual contact as well, because the contact pressure is sufficient to penetrate the grease. Doing so on such high pressure contact surfaces between different metals has the advantage of sealing the contact area against electrolytes that might cause rapid galvanic corrosion.
A common use of dielectric grease is in high-voltage connections associated with gasoline engine spark plugs. The grease is applied to the rubber boot of the plug wire. This helps the rubber boot slide onto the ceramic insulator of the plug. The grease also acts to seal the rubber boot, while at the same time preventing the rubber from becoming stuck to the ceramic. Generally spark plugs are located in areas of high temperature, and the grease is formulated to withstand the temperature range expected. It can be applied to the actual contact as well, because the contact pressure is sufficient to penetrate the grease. Doing so on such high pressure contact surfaces between different metals has the advantage of sealing the contact area against electrolytes that might cause rapid galvanic corrosion.
02-05-2015, 08:54 PM
#12
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Thread Starter
Here you go! I didn't say it looked great, just a lot better than it was before! 
I messed up a bit in prep and applying the dye, bu a few brushstrokes and such are much better than the worn top starting to look like suede.
I'd recommend the Leatherique kit - I think someone with more patience that I would do an even better job.
I messed up a bit in prep and applying the dye, bu a few brushstrokes and such are much better than the worn top starting to look like suede.I'd recommend the Leatherique kit - I think someone with more patience that I would do an even better job.