Exhaust manifold removal questions
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Exhaust manifold removal questions
So, I am pulling my exhaust manifold to gain access to my oil cooler to replace its seals.
Two questions-
1) how likely is it that the studs will break (soaking in PB Blaster for >24hrs). Does impact wrench improve my odds?
2) I would ordinarily replace all the nuts, washers, bolts and gaskets when doing something like this. But that's $200 of stuff from pelican. Bite the bullet, or not worth it?
Many thanks.
Two questions-
1) how likely is it that the studs will break (soaking in PB Blaster for >24hrs). Does impact wrench improve my odds?
2) I would ordinarily replace all the nuts, washers, bolts and gaskets when doing something like this. But that's $200 of stuff from pelican. Bite the bullet, or not worth it?
Many thanks.
#2
Rennlist Member
You may end up having to pull some of the studs to get the manifold off, usually double nutting them gets them out pretty easy. Rarely had one break. Places like Lindseyracing.com sell new stud kits and gaskets pretty cheap if you do need them.
#3
I usually go the route of doubling up the nuts as well. then just pull the stud out. half of them will most likely come out anyway.
you could always get some of these too
you could always get some of these too
#6
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
One out of 12 studs broke. Crap.
Broke with very little torque applied.
And the ones that did not break loosened without much trouble at all.
I'll finish up the oil cooler and farm out this repair I think.
Cass- what are these?
Broke with very little torque applied.
And the ones that did not break loosened without much trouble at all.
I'll finish up the oil cooler and farm out this repair I think.
Cass- what are these?
#7
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I would be interested in where to order those from.
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#10
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Studs for an S are 999.062.139.02 by the way.
Post mortem on my broken stud is clear. Last time the nut on that one was installed, it was ridiculously cross threaded, sitting at quite an angle. Looking at the fractured side (and how easy it broke), I think it was half cracked already, maybe since the cross threading incident. I have no records of the manifold ever being removed, but records from the original owner (po) are thin.
#13
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I think I'll use Saturn 11518152 or ARP 400-8001 SS studs.
It seems they fit the 8v heads. Not sure about my 16v head though.
Does any one know the difference between the 8v and 16v studs?
It seems they fit the 8v heads. Not sure about my 16v head though.
Does any one know the difference between the 8v and 16v studs?
#14
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
So I have my oil cooler all buttoned up, and I ran the car up to temp to bleed the coolant system (20 minutes of idling or something, oil pressure dropped, high speed fans kicked on). No signs of exhaust gasses leaking from the port with the broken/missing stud. How will I know when I absolutely have to fix this broken stud? Sure would like to put it off a little so I can do some suspension stuff on the C4.
#15
I just did this, and found that the PO used a bolt for one of the studs. I just bolted everything back and used the bolt again, and it works just fine.....don't know if that is a bad thing, but hey.