Help Needed w Tail Lamp Assembly Removal
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Help Needed w Tail Lamp Assembly Removal
HI Guys. I did the searches and wasn't able to find a definitive or "easiest" way to remove the wiring harness from the rear tail light assembly on my 82 SC. I'm replacing the lenses and gaskets and need to also unglue and reinstall the corner separator for the turn signal. Some dufus glued it on the reverse way at some point so that it doesn't create a separation between the two outer bulbs. Figured I'd give everything a good cleaning too. I have 1 stubborn inner assembly screw that won't let go on the drivers side (probably rusted to the retaining nut thingy on the back side)…..sprayed some WD40 and will work it some more tomorrow. Any tips on the harness/wiring removal would be much appreciated.
#2
I had this problem too. The big Phillips head screws that attach the taillight assembly to the body screw into a nut that is captured within A folded piece of metal, and attached to a flange on the body. It's not actually a part of the structure of the car. If you drill out the screw come at the assembly will come out. You can get the metric phillips head screws at a hardware store; I got mine at Home Depot. I was able to clean up the encapsulated nut. The rear wheels will kick up debris and water at these parts and on my car this area was coated in 30 years of junk.
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I figured out the "easy way". I just undid the back cover of the assembly, disconnected the wires from the sockets and pushed the wiring free through the back of the assembly. Now if I can just get that drivers side lamp housing screw out….
#4
Team Owner
Also be careful with that chromed reflective costing. It will come off even if you just ripe it and appear dull
You may end up re spraying it with chrome spray paint
Funny you should mention this as I had mine apart last night . I too tried to undo that screw and ultimately decided it wasn't that important. I just cleaned the bulbs and dusted out the housing . Going to get new seals and put the lenses back on and call it a day I think.
You may end up re spraying it with chrome spray paint
Funny you should mention this as I had mine apart last night . I too tried to undo that screw and ultimately decided it wasn't that important. I just cleaned the bulbs and dusted out the housing . Going to get new seals and put the lenses back on and call it a day I think.
Last edited by theiceman; 08-17-2016 at 09:00 AM.
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#8
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
So the one screw thats left won't budge……ended up stripping the philips grooves on the head. Going to have to drill it out tomorrow.
Pelican sells the captive nut replacements, but not the screws. I'm hoping the local hardware store carries the screws.
Pelican sells the captive nut replacements, but not the screws. I'm hoping the local hardware store carries the screws.
#9
Team Owner
im sure a metric screw wont be difficult. if you can would you mind posting a pic of what you are dealing with once you get the housing out ? im in the same boat, cant get the screw loose o=n drivers side and cant get in anywhere to spray.
annoys me as I just had the whole rear bumper off last week
annoys me as I just had the whole rear bumper off last week
#12
Team Owner
Friendly local auto parts store.
i met up with a pelican guy this morning and we were talking about it as he did his . he said on the drivers side you can get to the back of the housing up in the wheel well and spray it or get a set of vice grips on it ( the captive nut) . The issue is all the crap that gets up there.
The passenger side is more difficult as the oil tank is in the way . Hopefully that means it is more protected and easier to get out.
i met up with a pelican guy this morning and we were talking about it as he did his . he said on the drivers side you can get to the back of the housing up in the wheel well and spray it or get a set of vice grips on it ( the captive nut) . The issue is all the crap that gets up there.
The passenger side is more difficult as the oil tank is in the way . Hopefully that means it is more protected and easier to get out.
#13
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Friendly local auto parts store.
i met up with a pelican guy this morning and we were talking about it as he did his . he said on the drivers side you can get to the back of the housing up in the wheel well and spray it or get a set of vice grips on it ( the captive nut) . The issue is all the crap that gets up there.
The passenger side is more difficult as the oil tank is in the way . Hopefully that means it is more protected and easier to get out.
i met up with a pelican guy this morning and we were talking about it as he did his . he said on the drivers side you can get to the back of the housing up in the wheel well and spray it or get a set of vice grips on it ( the captive nut) . The issue is all the crap that gets up there.
The passenger side is more difficult as the oil tank is in the way . Hopefully that means it is more protected and easier to get out.
#15
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Rubber drain tubes were both missing. Going to replace those. I was able to easily drill out the stubborn screw. Got both housings cleaned up. Now just waiting for the new captive nuts to come in so I can reinstall. My center light bar needs a good polish, so I'm thinking I might take it off (not an easy job) while I have the housings out. Here's a pic of the stubborn screw I drilled out.