Ed Hughes

There are Carreras that have had the fork go south by basically bending. That's one of the reasons a drop for a clutch should be more of a project with a survey and thorough check of lots of things, rear main, t-stats, breather cover, etc.

SARGEPUG

will do , thx

sugarwood

Since your engine is going to be dropped,
you might want to ask Cheech about the "while you're in there" stuff.
Things like replacing oil lines, seals, gaskets, etc.
Cheap parts, and shouldn't be raped for more labor since it's right there.

Do some searching on this, but this may be a time for preventative maintenance.
(As opposed to dropping your engine again for $1000 in labor again)

theiceman

..and here we go ..... lol

SARGEPUG

just actually spoke to Cheech before I popped on here. He mentioned my clutch felt pretty stiff at last valve adjustment a month or so ago, so it was due anyway. Also said if driven properly, you can get 80k out of a clutch and I'm at that mileage. Although not sure how was driven prior to me and I don't have records that far back. We will definitely address whatever else should be addressed while engine is out. My cam housing has a slow leak, so I would assume time to fix that as well

User 4221

My rubber centered clutch blew up at ~80k miles so he is spot-on there.

theiceman

so I have a somewhat related clutch question .. why does a clutch feel 'stiff" before its a about to go ?
to me a new clutch and one about to expire one should feel the same .. isn't the sprung steel in the pressure plate what determines the stiffness in a cable clutch ?

just wondering.

Ed Hughes

A galled up clutch cable would add to pedal effort, making it feel stiff. Any original cable is going to have some kind of resistance at this point, even a replacement cable that has, say 15 years on it-would as well.

theiceman

agreed Ed, but the cable i would call an ancillary device .. it would be the clutch cable causing it to feel stiff and can be changed very easily independent of the clutch . I was referring to the somewhat common comment about the clutch feels stiff so it is due ..or about to go .. i just dont understand the physics of that comment.

The reason i am asking really is i was in a buddies SC a few weeks ago and i found the clutch a nightmare , really hard to push compared to mine, and very "grabby" was very difficult to pull away smoothly , you had to give it a ton of gas , not smooth at all .
My other buddy told him the clutch was about to go .. I said i wasnt sure ..
I didn't say anything as i cant understand the " about to go " comment. To me it just seemed like a different type of clutch to mine.

Ed Hughes

I think that is sometimes/often the issue-it's "harder" to push the clutch pedal in, and it may be that the assumption is that it's the "clutch"-in reality it could often be the cable at fault.

SARGEPUG

Finally brought her to shop yesterday. Had AAA, flatbed her for free for 150 miles! Only had to pay $60 in tolls and obvious premier AAA annual of $150ish. Mechanic going to drop engine, then give me a call. I have a leaking camshaft housing which will most likely be addressed and the coupler that was the initial end all for the clutch, needs to be addressed. Now she seems to "hunt" for idle at startup. Probably hunts for a good 5 seconds till she levels off. Strange, because just had valve adjustment and tune-up about 250 miles ago. This has just started since after clutch blew. Wasn't immediately after though. Only since she's been sitting a few weeks after clutch was blown.

sugarwood

Glad you made progress. There are lots of things they could do while the engine is out. Replace fuel lines, fix the deals in the "triangle of death" oil leaks, etc. Maybe it's worth asking them what extra are worth doing. If they aren't crooks, it should be almost free labor with the engine already out. Just the cost of parts.

Let us know the final cost, if you don't mind.

SARGEPUG

yup, I'm all over that. Only leak I have since I bought the car is cam housing. I will keep all posted.

SARGEPUG

Here's update. Got a call this am and was told still not to touch the cam housing leak, because it's very minor and not worth the $. Was also told everything else looks good and no need to touch anything else. Just got another call back, after they started to address the hunting idle issue. They did a smoke test and found the intake manifold gasket leaking. Obviously best to address that now with engine out, cuts labor time in half.

SARGEPUG

Got car back on Sat, here's what was done. Car isn't right though and I have to bring her back. I'm getting a vibration / shudder off the line, an unusual noise when I disengage clutch (sounds like a creaking spring, hard to explain) and even the throttle pedal stuck one time! It was only a slight vibration when I left that I didn't think much of, but everything got progressively worse.
Any ideas on what's wrong???

Replace clutch disc, plate and release bearing.
New pilot bearing in flywheel
New springs for return arm and release arm
Engine and gear oil change
O rings
Replace intake manifold gaskets
Change head temp sensor