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Hi All,
My trailer came with a built in "transfer switch" and I was told that all I need to do is to buy a generator for the cabinet and wire it in.
I am not looking to run A/C although I might one day. I'd like to make it so that I can use all the power outlets in the trailer for charging tools, coffee maker, refrigerator cooler, etc.
I don't know where to start with this.
I've attached pics of the generator cabinet which has a pull out shelf to rest the generator on and one of the wiring box.
Advice on what I need to buy and how to wire this are appreciated!
The only loads that will matter will be AC and/or heat pumps. Figure out what you'd need to run those in the space you have and then get something that will comfortably run those. Anything that fits that bill will easily do anything else you need. For 44 feet if you want to actually cool it down on a hot day you could easily need multiple rooftop units.
The only loads that will matter will be AC and/or heat pumps. Figure out what you'd need to run those in the space you have and then get something that will comfortably run those. Anything that fits that bill will easily do anything else you need. For 44 feet if you want to actually cool it down on a hot day you could easily need multiple rooftop units.
I'm not thinking A/C at this time. Just want some juice for batteries and appliances.
I know many people have been happy with the Honda 3000W units.
Personally, just like every "I think I can get by with a 20 foot enclosed" thread that ends 8.5 months later with a "I should have gotten the 24/28 foot trailer" post, I think you should spec out the AC issue and buy once.
The ONLY caveat to that is the physical size of the gen cabinet; there's a small chance that what you would need to really trick out the AC won't fit there.
I know many people have been happy with the Honda 3000W units.
Personally, just like every "I think I can get by with a 20 foot enclosed" thread that ends 8.5 months later with a "I should have gotten the 24/28 foot trailer" post, I think you should spec out the AC issue and buy once.
The ONLY caveat to that is the physical size of the gen cabinet; there's a small chance that what you would need to really trick out the AC won't fit there.
Thanks. You might be right but frankly when it's really hot, I like to get in my truck with the A/C on max and the ventilated seats cooling my fat ***!
Any idea if the 4 wires shown in the pic require a particular type of generator?
Any idea if the 4 wires shown in the pic require a particular type of generator?
I suspect those four wires got to the typical four bladed 240V plug that should be on most generators. Usually, the only generators that don't have a plug like this are really small ones.
There are 20A and 30A four bladed plugs, you can tell by the wire size - it may be stamped on the wire insulation.
I'm just a guy with an open trailer, but I'm in the middle of my house generator project as I'm tired of enduring extended power outages without AC. Surprisingly a 3000W generator is enough to run my entire house w/o AC or heavy appliances such as an electric dryer or stove. AC loading dominates the needs, hence I'm also acquiring an 8000 BTU window unit to use with the generator.
A lot of AC equipment will specify the breaker size needed - this is very handy as it tells you the minimum generator size needed.
TLR: Size your generator for at least some AC. Of the appliances you listed, that coffee maker is a fairly large load. Upsizing the generator also allows it to handle inrush currents that happen when things power up. Having to constantly reset the breaker on the generator gets old fast. As another plus, if you put an electric inlet on your house, the generator can also be a backup for it.
I have a Honda EU3000is. It's a great little generator. It's an 'inverter', so it puts out nice, clean power to run sensitive electronics. It's small, very very quiet, and sips gas. I went all weekend last weekend running my 13,000 Btu a/c unit on my trailer at MSRH on less than 5 gal of gas.
They are not cheap though....around $1800 last time I looked
I have a Honda EU3000 I am very happy with. Runs one a/c unit and everything else in the trailer. You can also wire in an aftermarket remote start and aux fuel tank which is convenient at the track.
Agree with all the above. Look for a "pure sine" inverter model. Pricier but cheaper than replacing every battery in every device you own if you charge them on a cheaper modified sine wave model: https://www.analyticsystems.com/blog...pure-sine-wave
I had originally purchased a Honda EU3000 and it could not keep up running a 15,000 btu ac unit in the southern california heat. I ended up buying a larger Yamaha 6500 watt for a little more that I paid for the Honda. I had taken it back to the dealer numerous times and they recommended a larger generator.
Ditto on comments on the Honda 3000. Highly recommend. I've had one for years and it is great. Very quiet, varies speed based upon what is plugged into it. Can run for 8 hours or more on one tank.
Here is another option to consider. The Honda EU3000 can be paralleled with a second EU3000 via the use of a $50 cable kit that Honda sells.
You can start with the EU3000 and see if it meets your needs with the 2800 watts (run rated), output. If, at a later date, you decide you need more, you can purchase another EU3000, plug them into each other and have 5600 watts output. That would be enough to power a large A/C and air compressor and all your trailer plugs simultaneously. Total cost about $4000. Or for the same price, you can purchase the Honda EU7000 and get 5500 watts continuous (7000 watts peak). The advantage of the EU7000 for your application is it can be mounted on that slide out and plumbed into the exhaust extension that ATC provided so you can run it with the door closed. The same can be done with a single EU3000 but if you opt for a second 3000, you will have to store one in the trailer and set both of them up on the ground outside the trailer whenever you are operating in parallel. Keep in mind the 3000 weighs more than 100 bs with a full tank. Fortunately, Honda sells a wheel kit so you can wheel it around.
Both are quiet (48 db for the 3000 and 60 db for the 7000).
I started with a EU3000 then added a second EU3000 in parallel then finally a Cummins/Onan 7.0 kw genset. I have a pair of 13.5K A/Cs that use up most of 5000 watts when cycling, so I needed a little extra in reserve. One EU3000 should be sufficient for a single 13.5 A/C and quite a few lower draw items.
+1 for Honda generators. Super quiet, 1 pull, easy starts, sips gas......runs like a champ, can be run in tandem if you buy the right one to start with, so easy to increase power, if required.
I run the Honda EU 2000, small very portable, runs my lights, powers my battery chargers and most importantly my Nespresso maker.
06-20-2017, 10:42 PM
Generator advice
R: Size your generator for at least some AC. Of the appliances you listed, that coffee maker is a fairly large load. Upsizing the generator also allows it to handle inrush currents that happen when things power up. Having to constantly reset the breaker on the generator gets old fast. As another plus, if you put an electric inlet on your house, the generator can also be a backup for it.
