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The tire rack is bolted to the uprights via their supplied hardware. They make sure of your upright spacing when ordering the rack to confirm the length of the rack will match up to your uprights so knowing your spacing ahead of time is important. I didn't measure to confirm but the spare hardware looks to be self tapping 1/4"x2.5" lag hex bolts. If you're particularly concerned, you can always bolt all the way through the upright to the outside of the trailer (which is how the tire rack is mounted to the front wall of our ATC trailer) but InTech confirmed it's not required (nor how they mount the racks direct from the factory). We did pilot hole each mount point first just to keep things from traveling and to aid the self tapping tip to get started. It's certainly a little nerve wracking at first but after ~10k miles between the trailers, we've yet to have anything break off or even come loose.
Thank you for all the details you supply including pics (especially me, the reading challenged one)
Intech installs backing plates on any hardware they install from the factory. Its in their download brochure titled "Buyers Guide"
Wall Tie Downs: Your trailer walls can be equipped with different tie down options including e-track, airline track or rope rings allowing you to secure cargo to the walls. inTech always welds aluminum backer plates to the walls when installing any tie down options for maximum durability.
NP, understand. Its still a good suggestion on your part. But with better access the only hard wheel hookup I see on this Intech would be the RR wheel; if even that since there is more room than in a trailex.
I am definitely a bit jealous As much as I like my new-to-me trailex, it has limited my ability to nest/build-man-cave with the level of intensity I wanted.
BTW a friend of mine JUST arrived home in Houston with his 24ft ATC 305 yesterday, so I could put you in touch with him if you have any other questions.
Last edited by ShakeNBake; 01-13-2017 at 02:59 PM.
Thank you for all the details you supply including pics (especially me, the reading challenged one)
Intech installs backing plates on any hardware they install from the factory. Its in their download brochure titled "Buyers Guide"
Wall Tie Downs: Your trailer walls can be equipped with different tie down options including e-track, airline track or rope rings allowing you to secure cargo to the walls. inTech always welds aluminum backer plates to the walls when installing any tie down options for maximum durability.
Ahhh, makes sense- especially for horizontally mounted A track/E track. One of the reasons we chose to mount vertically is to ensure we were getting maximum attachment points to the trailer verticals. Don't think I'd be too keen on mounting either horizontally and only being able to catch a vertical every 16-18"
On the flip side- just another example of why some things/options are better done at the manufacturing point to ensure maximum functionality. Certainly can add aftermarket stuff later but particular stuff (like flush mounted airline track on the floor) is extremely hard to do as well as the factory can during production.
Just thought of another question? Do the interior lights work of the little emergency brake battery in case the truck is not hooked up? Not looking to add a load center with extra battery for the few times I want to get into the trailer at the track or early evenings/mornings.
Just thought of another question? Do the interior lights work of the little emergency brake battery in case the truck is not hooked up? Not looking to add a load center with extra battery for the few times I want to get into the trailer at the track or early evenings/mornings.
Just thought of another question? Do the interior lights work of the little emergency brake battery in case the truck is not hooked up? Not looking to add a load center with extra battery for the few times I want to get into the trailer at the track or early evenings/mornings.
Having the extra battery implies some sort of load center with charger as well. That in turn could imply a possible circuit redesign based on your statement.
Originally Posted by RickBetterley
Different manufacturer and the lights were incandescent but the 12 v lights only worked when the trailer was hooked up on my CargoPro.
For those I can see that due to the current draw. But the new ones are all LEDs which have very minimal current draw. Plus some LEDs have a build in protection circuit that shuts them off if the line voltage drops to a pre-determined/defined value: 11V is what I've seen so far.
Having the extra battery implies some sort of load center with charger as well. That in turn could imply a possible circuit redesign based on your statement.For those I can see that due to the current draw. But the new ones are all LEDs which have very minimal current draw. Plus some LEDs have a build in protection circuit that shuts them off if the line voltage drops to a pre-determined/defined value: 11V is what I've seen so far.
Another nice benefit of LED lights. I was wondering/hoping that might be the case.
The interior lights will not work with the breakaway backup battery with any wiring setup I've seen so far. The only enclosed trailer I've dealt with (20' Steel CargoCraft) that didn't have it's own full size battery power required the truck to be plugged in to power the interior lights. However, that was with incandescents instead of LEDs and it was an older trailer. I have installed a few of the breakaway boxes since though and I'd find it highly unlikely the trailer will be wired to use it for a power source. A decent option if you don't want to tie up interior space is our 20' ATC has a tongue box where the battery is located. Also works great to store all of the trailer specific junk (wood blocks, tire covers, chocks, locks, gloves) without taking up space inside the trailer cabinets.
I believe they never changed the design to account for LED lighting and the lower current draw. They just want to sell you a power center and battery. One quote I got was dealer installed for $400 (battery + rewire only). I told them "nuts" since all it really takes is a relay and some wiring/splices and you're set to go.
If one wants added protection one can add a low voltage cut off circuit or replace the lights with ones that have that low voltage cutoff to prevent the battery from being run down.