How are you ratcheting low nose cars in trailer
#16
Rennlist Member
I built low, gradual ramps in my trailer so the front wheels are 8 inches off the deck. It is easy for me to reach under to attach the hooks on the Rennline tow hooks. I've been doing it for 8 years without any problem. The ramps are the same width as my tires. I made them out of plywood. They are removable, so when I tow a different car that has more clearance, I don't need them. It was a good weekend project.
#17
Race Car
I use chains on the back and ratchet the fronts, but you could probably go with chain or cable in front and winch the rear.
-I got my short ratchet hooks from jegs or summit...
-I got my short ratchet hooks from jegs or summit...
#18
Originally Posted by Chuck Price
I built low, gradual ramps in my trailer so the front wheels are 8 inches off the deck. It is easy for me to reach under to attach the hooks on the Rennline tow hooks. I've been doing it for 8 years without any problem. The ramps are the same width as my tires. I made them out of plywood. They are removable, so when I tow a different car that has more clearance, I don't need them. It was a good weekend project.
http://www.raceramps.com/trailer-mates-front-1.aspx
#19
Race Car
Where do you guys get you chain setups? I want to use fixed length chains at the rear and rackets out front.
#20
Race Car
I can't see why I couldn't go with fixed length 2" straps. Well, maybe they are less durable than chains. Thoughts?
#21
Straps or chains should work equally well. DOT specifies a working
and breaking limit for each restraint and those numbers will be listed
on the label affixed to the strap/chain. As long as your strap/chain,
mounting points and attachment hardware are all at the limit you
specify, you should be good to go.
I use wheel nets and attachment hardware rated to 5000 lbs on each
wheel, more than enough to keep the car where I want it. I got my
restraints from Mac's: http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com
You can buy off the shelf or they will custom make anything you want.
and breaking limit for each restraint and those numbers will be listed
on the label affixed to the strap/chain. As long as your strap/chain,
mounting points and attachment hardware are all at the limit you
specify, you should be good to go.
I use wheel nets and attachment hardware rated to 5000 lbs on each
wheel, more than enough to keep the car where I want it. I got my
restraints from Mac's: http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com
You can buy off the shelf or they will custom make anything you want.
#22
I was thinking about switching my front restraints to chains. would like to know where people are getting their chain set ups. not real comfortable going to home depot and cobbling something together. don't want to unintentionally have an over stressed connector in the mix.
#23
If you want to switch to chains, try U.S. Cargo Control. They stock
#70 chain which is pretty much the industry standard for "tie down"
chains. They can also custom make any length and fitting combo
you specify. Here's the link: http://www.uscargocontrol.com
#70 chain which is pretty much the industry standard for "tie down"
chains. They can also custom make any length and fitting combo
you specify. Here's the link: http://www.uscargocontrol.com
#24
I have the same problem. To get the car properly balanced, the position gets in the way of the ratchets. In truth the D-Rings were placed wrong. Should be a foot further forward. But thats what I have.
Here is what I do: I pull the car too far forward, hook the front straps - already ratcheted - and then ratchet back from the rear. As long as both front straps are equally taught I am cool.
To unload the car - I release the rear a bit, and reverse the process. Pull the car forward, unhook the front straps and go from there.
And - and I have proper tie down hooks front and rear. No hooking onto jack points which can come loose if a strap loosens or slips. I also check trailer tension and strap tension when I stop for fuel.
Here is what I do: I pull the car too far forward, hook the front straps - already ratcheted - and then ratchet back from the rear. As long as both front straps are equally taught I am cool.
To unload the car - I release the rear a bit, and reverse the process. Pull the car forward, unhook the front straps and go from there.
And - and I have proper tie down hooks front and rear. No hooking onto jack points which can come loose if a strap loosens or slips. I also check trailer tension and strap tension when I stop for fuel.
My GT3 has rennline hooks on jacking points behind front wheels. When I hook in there, the front hooks in trailer floor are so close that there is not room to operate the ratchet unless I pull the car in on top of 2x10's. I really don't like doing that however it's the only solution I have