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Not "automatic" that I'm aware of, but our electrician installed "On" switches at the locations of each interlocked device. So in my case, the range, AC, and dryer are interlocked and I can only use 2 of the 3 at once. There is a switch at, let's say the dryer, that I can turn on which will force one of the other 2 to shut off if both are running and give me power for the dryer. It will also prevent the AC from starting up and overriding the dryer while it's running so you don't unknowingly end up with damp clothes.
Is there an automatic interlock that turns off, say, the vehicle charger when the other AC load is drawing power? I can't seem to find such a thing and it would be helpful for my situation as well, since the AC compressor is hanging off of the garage sub-box.
DryerBuddy is your friend…here - it's an auto-switch that allows one load to have "priority" shutting off the "other" load…normally you make the EV charger the "other" load…
DryerBuddy is your friend…here - it's an auto-switch that allows one load to have "priority" shutting off the "other" load…normally you make the EV charger the "other" load…
Update. 3 different permits, one failed inspection, and $2500 dollars later the outlet is installed. Now I'm waiting on the Taycan for a March/April delivery.
Update. 3 different permits, one failed inspection, and $2500 dollars later the outlet is installed. Now I'm waiting on the Taycan for a March/April delivery.
wire gauge size?
NEMA plug-type or hardwired?
going to use EVSE that comes with the vehicle?
Update. 3 different permits, one failed inspection, and $2500 dollars later the outlet is installed. Now I'm waiting on the Taycan for a March/April delivery.
Nice work, for that quoted price the electricians must have had to do a LOT of wire routing away from the main breaker box.
My situation was similar. Main panel 125 ft and 3 stories down from garage. Stole 1” conduit from main panel to kitchen since new stove is not dual,fuel, then routed flexible steel conduit through kitchen walls to garage ceiling, then down through roof of garage to sub panel then back up into garage ceiling to location for hard wired evse. Huge job. High materials cost for wire!!!
wire gauge size?
NEMA plug-type or hardwired?
going to use EVSE that comes with the vehicle?
Everything was hard wired. 10 gauge wire . By code I had to install a GFI for the NEMA plug
Using the EVSE that comes with the Taycan
Electrician ran 115 feet of copper wire.
As an aside, the first two permits were denied because I exceeded the "load" limit of 160A on the 200A panel. The first "load" calculation was 160.3. Permit denied. Second "load" was 161. Denied. The third was also 161. Approved. I think the County inspector was in a holiday spirit or was tired of arguing with me :-)
Not "automatic" that I'm aware of, but our electrician installed "On" switches at the locations of each interlocked device. So in my case, the range, AC, and dryer are interlocked and I can only use 2 of the 3 at once. There is a switch at, let's say the dryer, that I can turn on which will force one of the other 2 to shut off if both are running and give me power for the dryer. It will also prevent the AC from starting up and overriding the dryer while it's running so you don't unknowingly end up with damp clothes.
Yes my friend has a Tesla and has a similar problem...can't charge and run his dryer at the same time due to how its all wired up. But he can use one and not go over the amp/voltage required thus charge his car. No supercharges where we live so he charges with his Tesla mobile charger each night. I just had a second 50amp circuit installed in my house so my wife's BMW hybrid and my new Cross Turismo 4 won't have to compete for a charger as 110 volt just is not an option really. So i'd look into some type of interlock or revised calculation based on use/charging times as suggested or keep trying. New level 2 outlet #2
Last edited by mdrobc1213; 01-24-2022 at 06:43 AM.
owning an EV and depending on L1 charging can be feasible if you do not put many miles on the car on a daily basis.
an L1 charge will put maybe 4 miles an hour into the car. if you drive 50 miles a day it will take 12 hours to replenish the car.
Of course you could use a L3 charger for faster charges but that will cost you at least 30 minutes wasted time at the charger.
Currently I am living with a L2 charger that puts around 10 miles an hour into the car and that can be a bit problematic.
one of better things of having a proper L2 unit @ 50+amps is that you will get over 25 miles per hour into the car.
Is there any trick to setting up the Porsche charger hat comes with the car to work on 120? I’ve tried it a couple of times and I only get 10% charge in 24 hours. I know the 120 is slow, but that’s REALLY slow
Is there any trick to setting up the Porsche charger hat comes with the car to work on 120? I’ve tried it a couple of times and I only get 10% charge in 24 hours. I know the 120 is slow, but that’s REALLY slow
Yes, on the Porsche Mobile Connect charger crank up the amp setting from the default. The default is quite low. I recall it being able to go up to 14A. It’s not going to be anywhere near fast, but it’ll be quicker than what you are seeing.
Is there any trick to setting up the Porsche charger hat comes with the car to work on 120? I’ve tried it a couple of times and I only get 10% charge in 24 hours. I know the 120 is slow, but that’s REALLY slow
12 amps is maximum in north america for a normal 15 amp 120 v household outlet - it’s really slow - 1.44 kw which means you are getting about 0.98 kw at the battery for charge rate
12-16-2021, 05:58 PM
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