Track Day Readiness
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Disregard: Porsche dealer had the PS4S in stock
Hi All, I am revisiting this thread so I do not have to start a new one. I will be taking my CR to a fast track (Road America) this Spring and in anticipation, I am looking at tires. Currently the car has Michelin 4s that are great, lots of tread, but unfortunately a rear tire has a plug. Although I ran with the plug at the local short road course last year, I am not comfortable using a plugged tire with the speeds Road America commands.
As with many items, tires are not pandemic proof. Tire Rack will not have the 4s available until after the track day. They do have the PS2 (N spec) and PSS (non N spec) in stock. I haven't looked at other brands since my knowledge on their offerings are limited.
To my question, what would you pick in my situation? N branded PS2, non N branded PSS, or another tire altogether (I want around a 300TW summer tire)? Not sure the "N" branded tire is critical, and I also have some reservation on how old the PS2 tires would be. My understanding they came out a long time ago and probably arent being made new anymore. .
Hi All, I am revisiting this thread so I do not have to start a new one. I will be taking my CR to a fast track (Road America) this Spring and in anticipation, I am looking at tires. Currently the car has Michelin 4s that are great, lots of tread, but unfortunately a rear tire has a plug. Although I ran with the plug at the local short road course last year, I am not comfortable using a plugged tire with the speeds Road America commands.
As with many items, tires are not pandemic proof. Tire Rack will not have the 4s available until after the track day. They do have the PS2 (N spec) and PSS (non N spec) in stock. I haven't looked at other brands since my knowledge on their offerings are limited.
To my question, what would you pick in my situation? N branded PS2, non N branded PSS, or another tire altogether (I want around a 300TW summer tire)? Not sure the "N" branded tire is critical, and I also have some reservation on how old the PS2 tires would be. My understanding they came out a long time ago and probably arent being made new anymore. .
Last edited by plafondles; Feb 21, 2022 at 05:13 PM.
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Disregard: Porsche dealer had the PS4S in stock
Hi All, I am revisiting this thread so I do not have to start a new one. I will be taking my CR to a fast track (Road America) this Spring and in anticipation, I am looking at tires. Currently the car has Michelin 4s that are great, lots of tread, but unfortunately a rear tire has a plug. Although I ran with the plug at the local short road course last year, I am not comfortable using a plugged tire with the speeds Road America commands.
As with many items, tires are not pandemic proof. Tire Rack will not have the 4s available until after the track day. They do have the PS2 (N spec) and PSS (non N spec) in stock. I haven't looked at other brands since my knowledge on their offerings are limited.
To my question, what would you pick in my situation? N branded PS2, non N branded PSS, or another tire altogether (I want around a 300TW summer tire)? Not sure the "N" branded tire is critical, and I also have some reservation on how old the PS2 tires would be. My understanding they came out a long time ago and probably arent being made new anymore. .
Hi All, I am revisiting this thread so I do not have to start a new one. I will be taking my CR to a fast track (Road America) this Spring and in anticipation, I am looking at tires. Currently the car has Michelin 4s that are great, lots of tread, but unfortunately a rear tire has a plug. Although I ran with the plug at the local short road course last year, I am not comfortable using a plugged tire with the speeds Road America commands.
As with many items, tires are not pandemic proof. Tire Rack will not have the 4s available until after the track day. They do have the PS2 (N spec) and PSS (non N spec) in stock. I haven't looked at other brands since my knowledge on their offerings are limited.
To my question, what would you pick in my situation? N branded PS2, non N branded PSS, or another tire altogether (I want around a 300TW summer tire)? Not sure the "N" branded tire is critical, and I also have some reservation on how old the PS2 tires would be. My understanding they came out a long time ago and probably arent being made new anymore. .
I have a dedicated set of track tires on 18" wheels. Can't recommend enough buying a cheap set of 18" wheels as you'll have cheaper tires available that will perform better at the track.
Also, you may want to throw in some more capable pads if you were nearing the limit at the slower tracks.
Last edited by Zach L; Feb 26, 2022 at 04:27 PM.
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@Zach L Are the PS2's still being produced? I thought they were several generations old and went out of productions years ago. It would be good information to know for the next time I have to buy tires since I don't mind going with the tried and true tires of yesterday (as long as they were made somewhat recently). Pads are taken care of. I've had no issues with the Ferodo DS2500 that came on my car. Plenty of pad left and no fading at the last track day. The tires were the limiting factor when it came to the braking. I will see how the pads hold up at RA before deciding if I need something more aggressive next time out.
@vanlieremead I did check my Costco, which is right down the road from my office. The price and convenience would have been great! Unfortunately they were out of stock.
My Porsche dealer did have a set of the N spec PS4S in stock and they are now on my car.
@vanlieremead I did check my Costco, which is right down the road from my office. The price and convenience would have been great! Unfortunately they were out of stock.
My Porsche dealer did have a set of the N spec PS4S in stock and they are now on my car.
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@Zach L Are the PS2's still being produced?
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@Andy Ordonez - Question about the GT3 Master cylinder. I have seen this touted as a performance upgrade for 987s (Mine is 987.2), but can you tell me what makes this a better master cylinder? If you are getting a stiffer pedal (shorter stroke) that implies to me that the cylinder diameter is larger (same volume displacement = shorter stroke). However, increasing the diameter decreases the brake pressure for a given pedal force. Do you notice that you need more pedal force to say go from 100 to 0 in same distance? Trying to understand if I want to go this route. Are the guys racing 987s doing this?
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I run a stock Cayman R on brake-heavy tracks with only the following:
- Castrol SRF brake fluid (more expensive, but absolutely worth it).
- Ferodo DS1.11 pads on track and swap back to the OEM Cayman R pads for street (the 987 is virtually the easiest car to swap brake pads).
- OEM center front radiator kit (about $350) for extra cooling. PDK came with the center radiator (and need it MUCH more) but easily added to manual cars.
- Dedicated set of wheels/tires for track use. Something like RE-71R or NT01.
- Castrol SRF brake fluid (more expensive, but absolutely worth it).
- Ferodo DS1.11 pads on track and swap back to the OEM Cayman R pads for street (the 987 is virtually the easiest car to swap brake pads).
- OEM center front radiator kit (about $350) for extra cooling. PDK came with the center radiator (and need it MUCH more) but easily added to manual cars.
- Dedicated set of wheels/tires for track use. Something like RE-71R or NT01.
Last edited by plafondles; Jun 22, 2022 at 11:07 AM.
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Had a track day this weekend which was a pretty hot weekend of 85 degrees in Michigan, and the car was running hot. Water temp was climbing to about 220-225 (dash needle indicated) before I slowed down which caused the temps to drop soon afterwards. Reading about it when I got home, I should not let the car get above 220 so I'll slow down earlier next time. A bit disappointing since it is a stock car on summer tires I had to keep cutting my sessions short. I plan to take the bumper off and inspect the radiator for debris which may be blocking some air flow. If I continue to track this car, I will add the center radiator like you mentioned and see how that goes.
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Gingerman. Interesting, is your CR a manual or PDK?
I checked coolant levels and no leakage per the fluid levels. I plan to take the engine covers off tonight and inspect for any leak, which I doubt. I replaced all the caps and had no issues at Road America (although temps were much lower and raining).
I am running 1:49 at Gingerman. Nothing spectacular.
I checked coolant levels and no leakage per the fluid levels. I plan to take the engine covers off tonight and inspect for any leak, which I doubt. I replaced all the caps and had no issues at Road America (although temps were much lower and raining).
I am running 1:49 at Gingerman. Nothing spectacular.
Last edited by plafondles; Jun 22, 2022 at 11:25 AM.
Drifting
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After making sure your radiators are clean adding the third radiator is the next step. There is an option to add the GT4 radiator that vents up but requires changing the front bumper and a few more bits. I have the third radiator with my 2013 Boxster S PDK. I don't have issues with the coolant temps, but watch the oil temp which has hit 280. I start paddle shifting early when it gets to 265.
IMO engineering opinion the OEM PDK heat exchanger is being overwhelmed. My oil temps drop rapidly during the cool down lap. TPC Racing adds the GT3 heat exchanger as their first step after the third radiator. You can also add the GT4 heat exchanger which is bigger than the OEM but smaller than the GT3. They also offer an auxiliary PDK cooler, fluid to air. Someone else offers a larger PDK cooler.
Mid-engine cars by design run hotter. There are many threads on what oil temp is too hot. I've read that GT4s and Club Sports often run 280-300. My bigger concern is the PDK. Right now I will manage the oil temps by shifting early and if necessary back off or pull in. If I had a Cayman and wanted to move to a more dedicated track car I would definitely add the GT3 heat exchanger and aux PDK cooler.
IMO engineering opinion the OEM PDK heat exchanger is being overwhelmed. My oil temps drop rapidly during the cool down lap. TPC Racing adds the GT3 heat exchanger as their first step after the third radiator. You can also add the GT4 heat exchanger which is bigger than the OEM but smaller than the GT3. They also offer an auxiliary PDK cooler, fluid to air. Someone else offers a larger PDK cooler.
Mid-engine cars by design run hotter. There are many threads on what oil temp is too hot. I've read that GT4s and Club Sports often run 280-300. My bigger concern is the PDK. Right now I will manage the oil temps by shifting early and if necessary back off or pull in. If I had a Cayman and wanted to move to a more dedicated track car I would definitely add the GT3 heat exchanger and aux PDK cooler.
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Gingerman. Interesting, is your CR a manual or PDK?
I checked coolant levels and no leakage per the fluid levels. I plan to take the engine covers off tonight and inspect for any leak, which I doubt. I replaced all the caps and had no issues at Road America (although temps were much lower and raining).
I am running 1:49 at Gingerman. Nothing spectacular.
I checked coolant levels and no leakage per the fluid levels. I plan to take the engine covers off tonight and inspect for any leak, which I doubt. I replaced all the caps and had no issues at Road America (although temps were much lower and raining).
I am running 1:49 at Gingerman. Nothing spectacular.
I've run a stock Boxster S at Gingerman too in the middle of summer without any issues.