SPB setup advice
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Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Charlotte, NC
SPB setup advice
Hi everybody. Im new and still have a lot to learn, just got signed off solo and recently bought a SPB. Im looking for advice on the initial setup of the car to be neutral while I get used to the car and get more experience on the track. The end goal is to race in SPB.
Im planning to run a square setup on the spec toyo tires. The car has PSS9s, tarett bars front and rear, tarett drop links (extended in front), GT3 LCAs, and adjustable toe links.
Im looking for advice on sway bar settings, shock settings, alignment, everything.
Appreciate any help!
Im planning to run a square setup on the spec toyo tires. The car has PSS9s, tarett bars front and rear, tarett drop links (extended in front), GT3 LCAs, and adjustable toe links.
Im looking for advice on sway bar settings, shock settings, alignment, everything.
Appreciate any help!
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Joined: Mar 2017
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From: Northern Colorado, USA
I am running about -3.5 front and -3 rear for camber. Toe is pretty neutral. I have the Tarrett bars and run full soft in the rear and in the middle on the front. I had the rear one off full soft and the front one notch stiffer....the car was a bit too oversteery for my taste there.
I am on PSS9's which are worn out. I have a set of MCS's sitting on the bench going in this winter. Hope that helps.
I am on PSS9's which are worn out. I have a set of MCS's sitting on the bench going in this winter. Hope that helps.
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Joined: Aug 2017
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From: 10 mins from Lime Rock
This is the set up that I've fine tuned for my taste over the past four years with this car. It is very neutral with great front end grip but easily rotates when told to via trail braking or cranking heavy steering lock in slow to medium speed corners. One caveat is the springs on my PSS9 are the blue ones that come with the shocks and are a little softer then the green 450/500 Swift springs. I run a square set up with either Toyo RR or Hankook RS4 depending on weather. Unless you're going club racing very soon I'd suggest a 200TW tire so you can experience a little more car movement and how to correct for it before you put a 40TW RR on. If you just recently got signed off to solo you won't go any faster on the RR and will burn through them a lot quicker. Just my opinion.
Shocks on full stiff
Front bar full hard -If you have the stiffer 450/500 Swift springs maybe one off full stiff. Remember, the softer the front bar is the more the rear is going to want to come around.
Rear bar full soft -In the wet I disconnect it sometimes
Front toe at zero
Rear with a "hair" of toe in
Camber: Front -3.3, Rear at -2.7
The car has a slight amount of rake to it rear to front, about 1/4" measured at the wheel arches
Hot tire pressure with RR: 35 RS4: 32/35
Shocks on full stiff
Front bar full hard -If you have the stiffer 450/500 Swift springs maybe one off full stiff. Remember, the softer the front bar is the more the rear is going to want to come around.
Rear bar full soft -In the wet I disconnect it sometimes
Front toe at zero
Rear with a "hair" of toe in
Camber: Front -3.3, Rear at -2.7
The car has a slight amount of rake to it rear to front, about 1/4" measured at the wheel arches
Hot tire pressure with RR: 35 RS4: 32/35
Last edited by BFT3.2; Oct 24, 2021 at 11:42 AM.
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 7,953
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From: Onterrible
These cars are all about corner entry speed and hence turn-in predictability, rolling speed, and driver confidence at the true limit of the tire.
Most setup goals should revolve around entry IMHO, with the understanding that everything is a trade-off. You are looking for the greatest net benefit.
So.... you need to think carefully about:
1. Roll coupling and weight transfer for a car that doesn't have an LSD.
2. Camber loss for mid-corner grip in a car that has Macpherson struts.
3. Driver skill/technique, particularly with trail braking (pressure, timing, release).
Implications:
- a driver that rolls in more speed will want a different setup
- a driver that trails deeper will want a different setup
- a driver that leans on the tire more mid-corner will want a different setup
Hence there isn't a magical set it and forget it collection of numbers for SPB or, for that matter, any car.
Hint #1: zero toe doesn't belong on a car with lots of negative camber and positive Ackermann.
Hint #2: total roll resistance can be increased by running 500lb springs up front and adjusting sway bars accordingly.
Most setup goals should revolve around entry IMHO, with the understanding that everything is a trade-off. You are looking for the greatest net benefit.
So.... you need to think carefully about:
1. Roll coupling and weight transfer for a car that doesn't have an LSD.
2. Camber loss for mid-corner grip in a car that has Macpherson struts.
3. Driver skill/technique, particularly with trail braking (pressure, timing, release).
Implications:
- a driver that rolls in more speed will want a different setup
- a driver that trails deeper will want a different setup
- a driver that leans on the tire more mid-corner will want a different setup
Hence there isn't a magical set it and forget it collection of numbers for SPB or, for that matter, any car.
Hint #1: zero toe doesn't belong on a car with lots of negative camber and positive Ackermann.
Hint #2: total roll resistance can be increased by running 500lb springs up front and adjusting sway bars accordingly.
Last edited by jdistefa; Oct 24, 2021 at 02:01 PM.
