If I change my front camber track side using 3 top mounting bolts, do I need to adjust toe and caster as well or will they stay close to current settings?

Looking to keep street and go aggressive track side, then back to street.

 

Many will say that any alteration to suspension will require an alignment, but that can be such an expense when you're frequently changing things up.

As long as you're not changing ride height:
Your caster shouldn't changed by only making camber adjustments.
Your toe may be VERY minimally altered. But it'll be so insignificant, that you'll likely still be within the acceptable range based on laser alignment tools.

My only suggestions would be to use a marker to indicate the current position of your strut tower bolts so you can easily reset them back to your perfect alignment for daily use.

Not sure what tools you have access to, but I've had great success of using a my phone level held against a straight edge resting on the rims of the wheels. I made some fairly significant camber adjustments with my phone, only one wheel was off by 0.1° after being professionally checked, so I'd call that a success.

 

Not sure I agree with the statement that the toe is minimally effected by camber change. As you add negative camber you will create toe out. If the camber change is not too significant, the toe out may help with turn in. You might consider investing in some inexpensive camber plates and try the change in your garage before you do it at the track.

 

I'm not denying toe won't change. On a stock suspension, I've only been able to get another -1° to -1.5° of camber by simply adjusting the strut tower bolts. That'll give you about 2mm toe out in total, which can be beneficial depending on the track.

Most alignment shops will try to get you within 1mm, so 2mm might not be enough for generic shops to be bothered to make adjustments. But if it is a concern, you could always max out the camber, get a toe alignment to ~1mm out, then it should be pretty close to 0 when you return to daily camber settings.

 

I'd set max camber, set toe, and leave it that way for the street. Its not worth moving camber back and forth for the small amount gained.

 

I thought of that, but it's an hour drive to the track.

I think I'm going to do the marker method... if it handles like ****aki, I'll just bring it back to the original with zero toe on the next 30m run. Then head to the shop for max and zero toe.

I bought it as a track only car for hpde's, so I can practice for Chump and Lemons race. While "slowly" turning it into a race car. At least that what I told the wife.😎

 

I agree with Bill.

On a stock suspension, you will wear out the outside edge of the tires badly anyway, so running the extra moderate amount of camber will not really effect your tire wear. Handling with 1.5 degrees will be totally fine on the street.