Rear Suspension time, possibly
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Rear Suspension time, possibly
Hello everyone, so my wife is the driver of the Cayenne these days but I took it out a few weeks ago for a drive and noticed that the rear of the car felt unsettled. Car has 130,000 miles on it. I looked at the suspension parts during. brake change an didn't see anything out of the ordinary. My plan was too lift the car this weekend and do a thorough check and fill up the nitrogen in the shocks as I think they are low.
Does anyone have any insight on what rear suspension part or parts seem to go first? The car does have 130k on it and if I'm digging in, it couldn't hurt to have those parts on hand to swap them out. I don't have a lot of space so to work on a vehicle in my garage, I have to push two cars out in to the driveway. It's a tedious process. I'm thinking that the sway bar gets a lot of action.
Thanks
Does anyone have any insight on what rear suspension part or parts seem to go first? The car does have 130k on it and if I'm digging in, it couldn't hurt to have those parts on hand to swap them out. I don't have a lot of space so to work on a vehicle in my garage, I have to push two cars out in to the driveway. It's a tedious process. I'm thinking that the sway bar gets a lot of action.
Thanks
#2
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
The lower control arms tend to need it most often and make the biggest difference in ride quality when replaced... which unfortunately is the most expensive part to do as it's a dealer-only part - no aftermarket parts exist that I know of. Next to break down over time are the uppers. The rear toes I have not really seen them wear out, but they're so cheap it's worth replacing them all. The bushing in the carrier needs to be pressed out, but often that does not require replacement. Check out RockAuto, and you'll see lots of aftermarket options for the parts, which most are quite good and far better than your 130k mile parts.
The entire job is not bad, unless you have a rusty car as the eccentric bolts allow moisture to trickle in and that results in a bolt that's corrosion welded to the bushing which need to be cut out with a saw - a messy job! Remember all of the bolts need to be replaced, so it's about a hundred bucks in bolts. And have fun with the big bolts: 111 foot pounds plus 90 degrees is a good workout!
The entire job is not bad, unless you have a rusty car as the eccentric bolts allow moisture to trickle in and that results in a bolt that's corrosion welded to the bushing which need to be cut out with a saw - a messy job! Remember all of the bolts need to be replaced, so it's about a hundred bucks in bolts. And have fun with the big bolts: 111 foot pounds plus 90 degrees is a good workout!
Last edited by garrett376; 05-16-2024 at 08:46 PM.
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VicS (05-29-2024)
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The lower control arms tend to need it most often and make the biggest difference in ride quality when replaced... which unfortunately is the most expensive part to do as it's a dealer-only part - no aftermarket parts exist that I know of. Next to break down over time are the uppers. The rear toes I have not really seen them wear out, but they're so cheap it's worth replacing them all. The bushing in the carrier needs to be pressed out, but often that does not require replacement. Check out RockAuto, and you'll see lots of aftermarket options for the parts, which most are quite good and far better than your 130k mile parts.
The entire job is not bad, unless you have a rusty car as the eccentric bolts allow moisture to trickle in and that results in a bolt that's corrosion welded to the bushing which need to be cut out with a saw - a messy job! Remember all of the bolts need to be replaced, so it's about a hundred bucks in bolts. And have fun with the big bolts: 111 foot pounds plus 90 degrees is a good workout!
The entire job is not bad, unless you have a rusty car as the eccentric bolts allow moisture to trickle in and that results in a bolt that's corrosion welded to the bushing which need to be cut out with a saw - a messy job! Remember all of the bolts need to be replaced, so it's about a hundred bucks in bolts. And have fun with the big bolts: 111 foot pounds plus 90 degrees is a good workout!
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VicS (05-29-2024)
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
FPCeuro has rear control arms: https://www.fcpeuro.com/Porsche-part...=11&d=15407&v=
I find Rock Auto is a bit of a gamble on quality.
I find Rock Auto is a bit of a gamble on quality.
#6
"Thanks but I've got the parts supply thing handled" - Good to know.
"If you do want to offer help, do your research before you post" - WOW... snotty answer much? THAT'S A BIT STRONG ISN'T IT?
"Rock Auto doesn't sell Genuine parts. FCP price is cost prohibitive at $340 each." - We're on the same page, but your tone suggests I'm at fault for mentioning Rock Auto at all - Garret suggested Rock Auto, not me.
"I can get them for $209 at Gaudin and possibly cheaper if I spend some time searching." - Cheaper is always better, or wait.. is it the other way around. Good luck with that anyway. Nothing like a finely tuned Porsche with the cheapest parts on the internet installed onit.
"If you do want to offer help, do your research before you post" - WOW... snotty answer much? THAT'S A BIT STRONG ISN'T IT?
"Rock Auto doesn't sell Genuine parts. FCP price is cost prohibitive at $340 each." - We're on the same page, but your tone suggests I'm at fault for mentioning Rock Auto at all - Garret suggested Rock Auto, not me.
"I can get them for $209 at Gaudin and possibly cheaper if I spend some time searching." - Cheaper is always better, or wait.. is it the other way around. Good luck with that anyway. Nothing like a finely tuned Porsche with the cheapest parts on the internet installed onit.
The following users liked this post:
VicS (05-29-2024)
#7
Instructor
On the rear of my 957 I only replaced the shocks and sway bar links around 135k mi. The front needed new upper and lower control arms, sway links and tie rods. My car was northern for first 10 years and I was able to remove all the eccentrics with hand tools but I did soak with PB rust buster several days before starting. I'd do it all and then align.
Mark
Mark
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#8
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
On the rear of my 957 I only replaced the shocks and sway bar links around 135k mi. The front needed new upper and lower control arms, sway links and tie rods. My car was northern for first 10 years and I was able to remove all the eccentrics with hand tools but I did soak with PB rust buster several days before starting. I'd do it all and then align.
Mark
Mark
#9
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
"Thanks but I've got the parts supply thing handled" - Good to know.
"If you do want to offer help, do your research before you post" - WOW... snotty answer much? THAT'S A BIT STRONG ISN'T IT?
"Rock Auto doesn't sell Genuine parts. FCP price is cost prohibitive at $340 each." - We're on the same page, but your tone suggests I'm at fault for mentioning Rock Auto at all - Garret suggested Rock Auto, not me.
"I can get them for $209 at Gaudin and possibly cheaper if I spend some time searching." - Cheaper is always better, or wait.. is it the other way around. Good luck with that anyway. Nothing like a finely tuned Porsche with the cheapest parts on the internet installed onit.
"If you do want to offer help, do your research before you post" - WOW... snotty answer much? THAT'S A BIT STRONG ISN'T IT?
"Rock Auto doesn't sell Genuine parts. FCP price is cost prohibitive at $340 each." - We're on the same page, but your tone suggests I'm at fault for mentioning Rock Auto at all - Garret suggested Rock Auto, not me.
"I can get them for $209 at Gaudin and possibly cheaper if I spend some time searching." - Cheaper is always better, or wait.. is it the other way around. Good luck with that anyway. Nothing like a finely tuned Porsche with the cheapest parts on the internet installed onit.
Last edited by RAudi Driver; 05-20-2024 at 11:28 PM.
#10
Instructor
I wasn't able to find any evidence of wear in the rear from the various control arms. I also haven't found many threads calling out wear points. My shocks were definitely weak, easily compressed and I noticed a floaty rear end especially over concrete bridges. I replaced the sway links more because I was in there, they are cheap and reusing the rusty nuts wouldn't be practical. I'd replace the shocks and go from there since no alignment is required. Inspect the bushings with a pry bar.
Mark
Mark
#11
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I wasn't able to find any evidence of wear in the rear from the various control arms. I also haven't found many threads calling out wear points. My shocks were definitely weak, easily compressed and I noticed a floaty rear end especially over concrete bridges. I replaced the sway links more because I was in there, they are cheap and reusing the rusty nuts wouldn't be practical. I'd replace the shocks and go from there since no alignment is required. Inspect the bushings with a pry bar.
Mark
Mark
Thanks
#13
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member