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I recently installed catless headers on my 981 GT4, and although they sound amazing, they're not exactly neighbour friendly volume-wise. Previously I had my PSE valves permanently open using the grub screw plugging the vacuum line method but now wanted full manual control of the valves. I looked at the Soul and Cargraphic controllers but they involve opening up the engine cover to install. I ended up rolling the dice on this device from Aliexpress... it's basically a standalone vacuum pump which is remote controlled. I was able to install this in the rear hatch area and run its own silicone vacuum line to the factory t-connector controlling the two exhaust valves. Completely independent of the factory valve button, not tapping into any factory vacuum source, fully remote controlled with fob remotes (which are also programmable to Homelink buttons), and completely reversible all for only $50USD.! Sounds too good to be true but I've been using it for the past couple of weeks and working fantastic
I suspect that this factory supplies Soul their valve controller. Have a look at this one, I swear it's a dead ringer for the Soul one, down to the same remote controls. This one is only $26USD! hmmm, quite a bit cheaper than Soul's :-). I can't say this one works like the Soul one as I didn't purchase it, but it looks like it would work the same (using a car vacuum source rather than the vacuum generator box I installed). Someone buy one and give it a go! https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DmJsq1T
Anyways, here are some pictures of my install. I ran the silicon vacuum line through the same grommet in the rear hatch area that Soul recommends passing their wiring for their controller. I patched it into the t-connector that joins the two vacuum lines going to each exhaust valve and left the vacuum line coming from the car vacuum plugged as I had before with a grub screw. The 12V power for the control box taps into the rear fuse box, and I attached the box itself with some zip ties to the carpeted side trim cover. Finally I programmed one of the Homelink buttons to the "on" button on the remote control and one to the "off" button. This lets me open and close at will while driving. It does build vacuum pretty slowly (about 4 seconds - see video at the end) and makes a slight "mooing" sound as it pumps, but you don't hear it all all when the car is running
attached to trim with zip ties blue silicone vacuum line passed through rear hatch grommet to under the car blue vacuum line taps into factory t-connector going to the two exhaust valves 12v power to box using add-a-fuse in rear fusebox completed installation. Takes up almost no space in rear hatch cargo area
Finally, here's a video of me actuating the valves using the remote control with the car not running:
This is awesome. I retrofitted PSE, but was hesitant to pay the $300 for the Soul controller, so I'm just running with valves open now. Definitely debating doing something similar since my cold starts are pretty loud too.
How loud is the sound that the aliexpress pump makes when it's enabled? From the video it seems like a pretty loud hum/rattle?
Question -- if you force the valves open manually, do you still get pops and bangs on the overrun? Or do those happen only if you press the PSE button on the console?
This is awesome. I retrofitted PSE, but was hesitant to pay the $300 for the Soul controller, so I'm just running with valves open now. Definitely debating doing something similar since my cold starts are pretty loud too.
How loud is the sound that the aliexpress pump makes when it's enabled? From the video it seems like a pretty loud hum/rattle?
I filmed that video before I mounted the box in the hatch area... the noise is barely noticeable (and you can't hear it at all while the motor is running). When you put it in the "on" position it buzzes while building vacuum (a few seconds) and then it stops. It then holds pressure and keeps the valve shut until you release the vacuum with the "off" button. So it only runs momentarily, otherwise it's completely silent
Question -- if you force the valves open manually, do you still get pops and bangs on the overrun? Or do those happen only if you press the PSE button on the console?
If you force the valves open manually, you definitely get the overun pops. It gives you the same thing as PSE button "on" but better, as the valves are always open. The PSE on button will only open the valves over a certain speed and at certain RPM's, so even if the button is "on" the valves aren't necessarily always open. That's why I installed this... I have full control when I want the valves open or closed
Awesome, thanks for the info! One more question - in that link there are several variations available. Which is the one you purchased? I'm having trouble telling the difference between the $26 and $52 versions
Awesome, thanks for the info! One more question - in that link there are several variations available. Which is the one you purchased? I'm having trouble telling the difference between the $26 and $52 versions
from the link I posted, you need to select either "Color: 2 Controller" for the one I have like this:
Select "Color: 1 Controller" for the Soul-like one which requires tapping into the car's vacuum source
the second one looks EXACTLY the same to me as the Soul $395 valve controller! https://soulpp.com/product/exhaust-v...ontroller-kit/ Someone order this and try it out. $26 vs $395... hmmm, may be worth waiting two weeks for the slow boat from China to deliver this and give it a go
Forsa355, why didn't you purchase the $26 switch instead of the whole pump? It sounds like you already have the vacuum line going to your exhaust. Couldn't you have just left the PSE switch turned off and put the remote-controlled unit inline on your current vacuum lines, or disconnect the stock vacuum valve and put the new unit in its place? Would this achieve the same result without the pump in your trunk? I agree that this is a good option for others that don't have the vacuum line already hooked up and don't want to run the line.
Forsa355, why didn't you purchase the $26 switch instead of the whole pump? It sounds like you already have the vacuum line going to your exhaust. Couldn't you have just left the PSE switch turned off and put the remote-controlled unit inline on your current vacuum lines, or disconnect the stock vacuum valve and put the new unit in its place? Would this achieve the same result without the pump in your trunk? I agree that this is a good option for others that don't have the vacuum line already hooked up and don't want to run the line.
The reason I went with the box that generates its own vacuum was simply due to easier installation. The Soul style $26 one is great but you need to remove way more stuff (like the engine cover) to access the vacuum line to tap into. My installation was super easy and just required pulling back the trunk carpet.
Another plus for the blue box one is you can close the valves before you start the car so cold starts are quieter immediately. I believe with the other one, the car has to be running (to produce vacuum) before you can close the valves. A second or two difference but that's enough to wake the neighbors :-)
Great info, thanks!
I’m presently doing the collar mod on my 718 GT4.
Would you mind expanding on the ‘add a fuse’ and what’s involved and how you did it?
Thank you again
Great info, thanks!
I’m presently doing the collar mod on my 718 GT4.
Would you mind expanding on the ‘add a fuse’ and what’s involved and how you did it?
Thank you again
Add a fuse, or add a circuit is just an adapter that lets you add a second circuit to any existing fuse spot in your fusebox. It piggybacks on an fuse that's already there, essentially letting you use one fusebox slot for two purposes. I picked a fuse in the rear fusebox that is active once you unlock the car. You run the positive lead of the valve controller there and then the negative lead goes to one of the bolts attached to your body. Looks like this:
Add a fuse, or add a circuit is just an adapter that lets you add a second circuit to any existing fuse spot in your fusebox. It piggybacks on an fuse that's already there, essentially letting you use one fusebox slot for two purposes. I picked a fuse in the rear fusebox that is active once you unlock the car. You run the positive lead of the valve controller there and then the negative lead goes to one of the bolts attached to your body. Looks like this: https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-50039.../dp/B07TG1ZGD3