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364$ for transfer case fluid - should I ?

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Old 08-13-2018, 06:24 PM
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Mach01R
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Default 364$ for transfer case fluid - should I ?

Hi
Do you think is it a good price or find an INDY shop?
Thanks

Last edited by Mach01R; 08-13-2018 at 06:46 PM.
Old 08-13-2018, 06:40 PM
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deilenberger
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Seems a tad excessive for $50 worth of oil (Porsche price, $30 for the two plugs - both cheaper elsewhere) and about 15 minutes of labor. Sounds like you'd be paying about $200 for the free carwash and coffee. Just tell the indy to be very careful tightening the plugs.
Old 08-13-2018, 06:49 PM
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Mach01R
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they said 1 hr and half labor, parts and the super carwash
Old 08-13-2018, 07:07 PM
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RED HORSE
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Originally Posted by Mach01R
they said 1 hr and half labor, parts and the super carwash
Given up letting any dealer wash any of my cars when they are in for service. They don't do a good job, and more and more it seems they do more damage to the surface than I am willing to accept.
Old 08-14-2018, 12:04 PM
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deilenberger
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Originally Posted by Mach01R
they said 1 hr and half labor, parts and the super carwash
I guess the 1.5 hours includes at least an hour for the tech to go have lunch. It really IS a 15-minute job. MANY of us have done it. It's about the most accessible thing on a Cayenne.
Old 08-15-2018, 02:57 PM
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knfeparty
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$36.40 would be more appropriate
Old 08-16-2018, 10:15 AM
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DrBillyD
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Originally Posted by deilenberger
I guess the 1.5 hours includes at least an hour for the tech to go have lunch. It really IS a 15-minute job. MANY of us have done it. It's about the most accessible thing on a Cayenne.
(emphasis added)

Seriously.

As an example, I've done stuff like plugs, filters, brakes, oil changes (usually), etc. but I did one oil change on my Cayenne and decided to never do it again. Re-installing the skid plate while on jack stands was a *major* PITA. If you have access to a lift and can get it in the air, maybe not so bad.

OTOH, the transfer case fluid change was easy: No skid plate to remove and no need to lift as it could be done with the vehicle suspension on the highest level. 15 minutes. Even when you've never done it before.

Just keep in mind:
  1. Remove the "fill" plug BEFORE you remove the "drain" plug. Don't want to find out fill plug is stuck *after* you've drained the transfer case fluid. And....
  2. Use new plugs (they have anti-seize applied) and only torque them finger tight. The aluminum housing is pretty fragile.
Old 08-16-2018, 10:27 AM
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Mach01R
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Thanks for all replies
I’m going to watch a few video on YouTube and maybe i’ll give It a shot
Old 08-16-2018, 10:30 AM
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the flyin' scotsman
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loosen fill plug, loosen and remove drain plug, drain oil. While oil is draining have a beer and clean both plugs.

Beer done, re-install and torque drain plug, add fresh oil (approx 1L) until oil is slightly seeping from fill hole, re-install fill plug and torque. Job done.

Now enjoy the $$$ saved with the bbq and party

btw.......I did the transfer case oil change after I serviced the transmission and used the same ATF; T4 I got for $9/L. So in total, oil + beer +15mins = $20

Also, the rear diff is just as easy, the front not so much as the fill plug is restricted.
Old 08-16-2018, 11:43 AM
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jtsmith18
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The drain/fill plugs don’t have anti seize applied they have a threadlocker. If you decide to reuse rather than buy new ones, clean them and put on some Loctite blue or something similar.
Old 08-16-2018, 02:56 PM
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deilenberger
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The stuff on the fill/drain plugs is a sealant. Meant to seal the tapered pipe thread holes. If you bought new ones, you'll find the sealant is soft to the touch. If I was suddenly in desperate need to change the oil without a chance to buy new plugs, and I'd cleaned off all the remaining sealant on the old plugs - I'd use teflon plumbers tape (installed the right way - there is a right and wrong way - think of how the plug tightens, you want the tail end to be dragging not pushing when the plug is turned clockwise) and tighten it VERY carefully.

BTW - I think using tapered plugs in this application is pretty stupid, but then we see the difficulty people have sealing up the oil drain plugs that uses a crush washer for a seal, and perhaps Porsche was right in using a tapered plug.. or not.
Old 08-16-2018, 10:19 PM
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garrett376
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Originally Posted by jtsmith18
The drain/fill plugs don’t have anti seize applied they have a threadlocker. If you decide to reuse rather than buy new ones, clean them and put on some Loctite blue or something similar.
Yikes. Everything written in that post is incorrect.

Since this procedure is shaping up to be a regular maintenance item, get some Permatex 59214 High Temperature Thread Sealant and save on buying new plugs every time.

Old 08-17-2018, 02:27 PM
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deilenberger
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Originally Posted by garrett376
Yikes. Everything written in that post is incorrect.

Since this procedure is shaping up to be a regular maintenance item, get some Permatex 59214 High Temperature Thread Sealant and save on buying new plugs every time.

+1 Excellent idea! Wonder if Henkle (LocTite) makes a similar product.. since that's Porsche's go to for sealants..
Old 08-17-2018, 03:14 PM
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deilenberger
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I can answer that - yup, LocTite/Henkel make lots:

https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/...-sealants.html

This looks suitable: http://www.loctite.com.au/3320_AUE_H...=8802629746689
Old 08-19-2018, 11:55 AM
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Mach01R
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Anyone know those plug part number


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