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Brake Flush Every 2 years

Old 02-15-2019, 02:03 PM
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Chicago
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Originally Posted by DOUGLAP1 View Post
Lot's of interesting opinions.

The bottom line is that we replace brake fluid to maintain a low boiling point. A low boiling point is mostly needed for repeated heavy use of the brakes. Obviously this occurs on a race track, but it can also occur with a spirited drive in the mountains. Many years ago when I had a new 914, I was young and ignorant, and went about 6 years on the same brake fluid. All was fine until I went for a hard drive in the Carolina mountains. The brakes faded out, but I was able to slow it down enough and drive for a few miles without using the brakes to cool them down, and they came right back.

So, as a much older and hopefully wiser fellow, I change my fluid before every track event, and make sure any car I drive in the mountains has reasonably fresh fluid. For a single panic stop event, I don't think it is so critical, but it sure can't hurt.

The brake fluds we use now are not all equal either. I normally use Motul 660, but my race car prep shop keeps saying I should try this Castrol fluid that they say is good for a whole race season. It does have a very high wet boiling point of about 520 F. It is pretty expensive, as Pegasus sells it for about $ 70.00 a bottle, so this may be the closest thing there is to a lifetime fill fluid:
914 vs 991 brakes, prob not the best comparison.

I use SRF all season, ~15-20 days. I'll bleed depending on the track and temps, but I don't flush.
SRF is great and saves a lot time if you do your own maint.
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Old 02-16-2019, 03:20 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2018
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Single stop performance will not be affected, main risk is long downhill were operator (wife) relies only on brakes to moderate speed.
Also as noted timely fluid flushes protect against corrosion.
You can definitely go longer than two years but I would not go too much more.
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Old 02-16-2019, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by worf928 View Post

This —-^

Brake fluid will pull moisture through the seals. If you’re going to flip your Porsche after a couple of years then it doesn’t matter. If your Porsche is a keeper then flush the brakes (and clutch if MT) every 2-3 years. DIY takes two hours and ~$20 of fluid.
^This. The brakes heat and cool, and condensation gets pulled past the seals. Not much, but it builds over time. The brakes may work fine unless and until they are called upon to do repeated stops. You don’t want to find out the hard way where the line is drawn. Also, the moisture will corrode brake components. I admit I track, so it’s every year for me.
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Old 02-16-2019, 07:50 AM
Dennis C
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You can drive further than Porsche recommends between oil changes if you choose. Or if you don’t drive much and you hit the the time limit that Porsche recommends for an oil change, you can wait. It should be fine.

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Old 02-16-2019, 08:18 AM
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I get concerned about significantly raising the fluid boiling point above OEM fluid because the OEM fluid may be acting like a “fuse” to avoid damaging other OEM components. Certainly avoiding boiling is the goal but shouldn’t other upgrades (better ventilation?) be pursed as well, for track driving?
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Old 02-16-2019, 09:09 AM
Join Date: Aug 2013
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Other upgrades for track driving—absolutely! Most people end up changing to slotted rather than drilled rotors, track performance brake pads, studs to replace caliper bolts, and optimizing ventilation, as you say.
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