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TB or not TB – Opinions Wanted!

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Old Apr 2, 2012 | 03:40 PM
  #16  
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Denny, I would go with C. Do it all at once. You will thank yourself afterwards. If you go ahead and get it done, you won't have to worry about it again for years. I have just finished a rebuild which also included all of the above and have many parts. This is the best time ever to get a Porkensioner from Roger, They are awsome and quite a compfort to not have to worry about the belt till next service. (No connection to inventor except for grateful customer) If you break anything or just want some good used stuff, let me know. I also have a excellent rebuilt FI wireing harness with all new or near perfect connectors. I rebuilt it myself and all pins were crimped, soldered, shrink wrapped and taped. If you need them. Or if you just need to ask questions, I would be glad to pm you a phone number.

Thanks and good luck,
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Old Aug 3, 2012 | 09:49 PM
  #17  
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Default To pull or not to pull?

D/W Comp. Nos. (Cold)

1 – 180/210
2 – 170/205
3 – 170/210
4 – 170/210
5 – 170/200
6 – 170/210
7 – 150/205
8 – 170/200
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Old Aug 3, 2012 | 10:22 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by depami
D/W Comp. Nos. (Cold)

1 – 180/210
2 – 170/205
3 – 170/210
4 – 170/210
5 – 170/200
6 – 170/210
7 – 150/205
8 – 170/200
I don't see anything there I'd be overly concerned about. Go drive the car.
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Old Aug 4, 2012 | 12:55 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by SeanR
I don't see anything there I'd be overly concerned about. Go drive the car.
The car doesn’t run. It is plagued with “brittle, crumbling wiring syndrome”.

It got hot when the hose from head to heater valve split. I drove it quite a bit after repairing that and it ran good but is now dead after changing fuel lines. I have repaired some crumbled connectors but there are still elusive electrical issues.

The odometer quit at ~102 K on the drive home from PA when I got the car in the fall of ’06. I drove it nearly every day for 3 summers and really have no idea how many miles I put on it.

The timing belt looks good when viewed through the vent tubes but the last service was over 6 years ago. The PO said the TB had recently been changed but the date was torn off of the receipt. He said he didn’t know how that happened. Yea right!

I will at minimum, pull the front end and intake for refresh and better access for repair / replacement of wiring and connectors.

The compression test was just to know where it’s at before I start taking things apart. It would be nice if #7 were 10 to 20 PSI higher but I agree that there is nothing too alarming about those numbers.

I am just thinking it might be more effective to pull the entire engine and have nearly unlimited access to everything that needs attention.


Maybe I should start a poll:

A. Continue to chase gremlins in frustration until I finally catch my tail and tackle the others once the car is again running?

B. Pull the intake to have better access for electrical repairs and changing sensors and vacuum lines then do t-belt after car is running?

C. Pull intake and belt to provide the most access for all needed repairs and cleaning?

D. Pull engine for ultimate access to everything?
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Old Mar 22, 2015 | 01:03 AM
  #20  
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Default Wake Up! Nap time is over!

Well I don't know about option D but I'm definitely going for option C+.

As some of you may recall, I scored a new engine harness a while back. I figure option C will give best access to change said harness. How advantageous would it be to exercise option D and is it worth the extra effort?

Wake Up 2.jpg

Wake Up 3.jpg
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Old Mar 22, 2015 | 02:33 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by depami
... How advantageous would it be to exercise option D and is it worth the extra effort?
Not much, and No. (In my opinion). Spring is not far off, time to get it ready for a drive.
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Old Mar 22, 2015 | 04:02 AM
  #22  
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you said you wanted opinions... well I'm full of two things, and opinions is #1.
pull the intake and do the needed things, a gasket set is cheap, take tons of pics so you dont lose your way back. A lot of simple things together can add up to a big problem. The assembly of the '85 - '86 intake is not as complicated as it looks, the most common fail items are under the intake., a little secret, although your 928 is 30 years old, VW used the same type electrcal connectors in their '90's models, which are plentiful in salvage yards. JMHO.

Last edited by OTR18WHEELER; Mar 22, 2015 at 04:03 AM. Reason: bought too many vowels
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Old Mar 22, 2015 | 01:45 PM
  #23  
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There's absolutely no advantage to combining these two jobs. They have no common parts, other than the two cold air intake tubes.

We wouldn't combine these two jobs, in my shop....attack and fix separate issues separately.

Pull the intake, fix everything, put it back together, and get it to run.

Then tear into the timing belt, after the car runs.

Especially important for mon professionals to keep things manageable, instead of taking a change that you might get overwhelmed.

Junk yards are filled with the later.
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Old Mar 22, 2015 | 02:09 PM
  #24  
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Thanks Greg. Greatly appreciate your input.

The main project at hand is the engine harness and I just figured, since both the others need to be done anyway, the more stuff out of the way the better. How much of that stuff could hinder harness replacement?

It may also receive some of your fuel lines. Not sure yet.
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Old Mar 22, 2015 | 02:51 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by depami
Thanks Greg. Greatly appreciate your input.

The main project at hand is the engine harness and I just figured, since both the others need to be done anyway, the more stuff out of the way the better. How much of that stuff could hinder harness replacement?

It may also receive some of your fuel lines. Not sure yet.
Injection harness when intake off..much easier.

If it's worth the time to work on, it is worthy of my fuel lines. Everything else is a fire waiting to happen.
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