dlpalumbo

I didn't run pump as per Adrian's procedure (not in Adrain's procedure, was looking at bomb bleeding page...).

Also noticed bleeder was down to 10 psi when I stopped. I will try to pump it back up to 20 psi and see if peddle comes up (didn't).

Any other ideas?

The clutch reservoir is deceptive. I thought there was plenty, but must have drawn air.

I went back and bled bomb and lock solenoids. Will try clutch again soon.

Dan

wilhit10

Did you clamp off the overflow line?

FlyinTomato

did you bleed wet or dry? I was only able to bleed the slave wet, fill fluid in the power bleeder.

bleed calipers dry is fine.

Super90

C2 or C4 ?

I just did my C2 after installing a new clutch slave and flex hose. Clamp off the overflow.





I used my pressure bleeder with one liter of fluid in it. I pumped up to only 5 psi, as my slave was not attached to the bell housing (was installing the motor at the time), and did not want to risk over pressuring it. All seemed to work well.

Bleeding dry (no fluid in the pressure bleeder), is a non-starter on clutch bleeding. The clutch line off the reservoir is very high and you will pick up air in the system very quickly.

Keep the Porsche Faith !!!

R.

dlpalumbo

I can confirm that bleeding dry doesn't work well for clutch slave. Reservoir was over filled (not by me) so I thought there was enough fluid in there. So I hooked up dry. Clutch hose was so low thought I had no worries. Did bleed, looked at reservoir and thought the clutch compartment looked low. Topped up reservoir, got in car and got that sinking feeling as pedal hit the floor.

Just to be sure, bled the bomb and lock solenoids, wet. Will do clutch tomorrow.

Also learned how much clamping pressure on overflow is too little.

Need to get more fluid now to do brakes.

Quite an ordeal even without all my faux pas. Whats the plural of faux pas anyway?

Thanks for help,

Dan

tbennett017

IIRC, in the C4, the clutch mechanism is not common with the bomb and PDAS- it only shares the reservoir at the top. It is treated more like a standard clutch setup. I replaced the master/slave recently and I primed the master on the bench. Also you can bleed it backwards like in a BMW Motorcycle... pressure from the slave end backwards to the master.

Dry doesn't work.

Spyerx

Hmmm... not sure why dry didn’t work, did it fine on mine.

Gus

I don’t use a pressure bleeder, bleed it by hand with a friend. But one thing I have learned is that the master takes time to pull fluid in to it. So after you press pedal down you need to pull it back up very slowly to pull fluid back into it. It done fast it won’t work. After doing this 3-4 times I get good clutch pedal. But you have to go slow.
Also - I added an extended bleed line from the slave to the rear of the engine bay so I don’t have to go under the car to bleed clutch. Also reverse bleed is a good idea to insure you have fluid all the way through system. Just have to watch reservoir to make sure you don’ over fill.

dlpalumbo

I did the wet bleed. Pedal came back, but so did a vibration as I actuate the pedal. Car had this condition when I bought it, but I thought it was the plastic bearing around rod clutch pedal rides on.

This noise is coming from under the car in vicinity of tranny and sounds like something needs to be lubed.

Could air in slave make a noise like that?

I bled for a looong time. But maybe it needs more.

Rocket Rob

If your clutch is squeaking in the bell housing, then you either have a faulty throw out arm, bearing or the roller bearings on the throw out arm.

Just in the off chance, you can try removing the slave from the tranny and apply some grease to the end of the slave. You may get lucky if that's all it takes. Otherwise, you need to drop the engine and pull the tranny to inspect the clutch parts.

dlpalumbo

I should add that everything was fine before the bleed.

order of events:

1. Bought car, always felt a rubbing when actuating.
2. Had engine rebuilt and clutch replaced. Clutch was excellent.
3. Bled clutch today: actuation is squeaking.

Not sure what I could have done to bring this on.

Super90

Were the slave and flex hose replaced with the clutch?

I know this sounds stupid, but get a mechanic stethoscope, have someone operate the clutch and then put the probe on the various components; slave cylinder, clutch fork shaft , etc. etc. If you have space to do that, I bet you find it....



Patience, persistence, and some ingenuity will win the day....

Keep the Porsche Faith !!!

R.

dlpalumbo

I was surprised to see that the cracked hose was not replaced when engine/tranny was out of car. Slave does not look new or rebuilt. Looks like there was some penny wise/dollar foolish thinking when engine was dropped for rebuild. Had to bring car back chasing leaks. Turned out to be breather hose up top (and lack of rocker seals). Bottom is dry now. I know there's a slippery slope, but some things, like 25 year old hoses, should be replaced. /rant

Thanks for listening,

Dan

HiWind

Thanks Dan ... yes some of the compartments are very narrow and hard to really read (maybe easier with BLUE fluid etc..) ... the wet bleed worked much better! Thanks!

dlpalumbo

Just to keep thread up to date, I brought car to different shop to have a number of items checked out, including the clutch. What I hear and feel reminds me of a stick/slip condition I got once in my lift. It seems the cylinder seal can bind then give to create this condition. This was remedied adding a treatment to the fluid that you can't use in brake systems, AFIK. I asked shop to install a new slave and replace the hose. Tech reports that he still hears noise, but to him it doesn't sound like its under car. It could be the original pedal binding has come back, which is a nuisance noise, but doesn't interfere with clutch action. I'll have to wait and see what's what when I get the car back.