Need help removing right side fuel line on S4
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Need help removing right side fuel line on S4
I had no trouble loosening the fitting under the front fuel damper. But trying to loosen the fitting where the rubber end attaches to the metal line on right side of the engine is going nowhere. I'm assuming the male fitting on the metal line unscrews counterclockwise relative to the larger female fitting (on rubber end of the fuel line being replaced). I've already bathed the fittings with PB Blaster. Obviously, this is no place for heat, but I do have a can of freeze spray that could possibly achieve the same result. I've squeezed the wrenches together as hard as I can, but the wrenches are short so probably not much force/torque. Any suggestions?
I thought about putting a pipe over each wrench, but I fear that may be asking for trouble.
I thought about putting a pipe over each wrench, but I fear that may be asking for trouble.
Last edited by Captain_Slow; 08-20-2017 at 02:58 PM.
#2
Rennlist Member
Use a lot of good penetrating oil do it over a couple of days. That is one nut you do not want to strip. I recently did an 86 and an 89 and both times used penetrating oil over 2-3 days and it broke relatively easy.
#3
Team Owner
why are you taking the lines apart?
if to install fuel hose to the fittings leave them alone and cut the hose with a razor blade.
If your fitting Greg Brown lines then get a dremel and carefully cut a side of the female nut so it will spit down the side put wet rags on the lines to reduce sparks.
NOTE you may have to cut 2 sides of the nut
if to install fuel hose to the fittings leave them alone and cut the hose with a razor blade.
If your fitting Greg Brown lines then get a dremel and carefully cut a side of the female nut so it will spit down the side put wet rags on the lines to reduce sparks.
NOTE you may have to cut 2 sides of the nut
#4
Rennlist Member
One thing I would do differently is to use flare nut wrenches rather than plain open end wrenches. I can't suggest that they will help break it loose, but they will reduce the chance of damaging the hexes on the fittings while you are trying.
#5
Rennlist Member
I recently had to do this on my 86.5 and wow, took weeks of soaking, it seams like the threads rust.
I'd suggest using Long wrenches for max leverage and a Flair nut wrench as suggested on the nut.
Dave K
I'd suggest using Long wrenches for max leverage and a Flair nut wrench as suggested on the nut.
Dave K
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#8
Drifting
Thread Starter
The wrench on the metal line fitting is a flare nut wrench. I chatted yesterday with one of the quieter 928 Jedi, and decided to let this hose remain for awhile while soaking it with PB Blaster periodically. I do have a Greg Brown replacement. I also have Greg's U-hose replacement and a new Porsche fuel cooler hose. Just pulled the air cleaner. I know everything is old...but it all looks and feels almost new, even the cladding.
#9
Rennlist Member
I learned a trick with Greg's u-hose. Warm it up in the sun or with a hair dryer and then slowly shape it to a U, then use a rubber band and wrap the fitting ends so it keeps the shape, let the hose sit until you do the work and there is less of a chance to kink it. Also pay close attention to routing and have a plan before you go in as there isn't a lot of room and things get fiddly. A lot easier when you are not fighting a hose that wants to be straight.
#10
Drifting
Thread Starter
Thanks for this tip...
I learned a trick with Greg's u-hose. Warm it up in the sun or with a hair dryer and then slowly shape it to a U, then use a rubber band and wrap the fitting ends so it keeps the shape, let the hose sit until you do the work and there is less of a chance to kink it. Also pay close attention to routing and have a plan before you go in as there isn't a lot of room and things get fiddly. A lot easier when you are not fighting a hose that wants to be straight.
#11
Team Owner
that looks like an original zip tie so that means these are original lines