engine cleaning solvent
07-13-2017, 04:37 PM
#2
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Are we to guess at the relationship of the two?
07-13-2017, 05:15 PM
#3
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Simple green works well.
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07-13-2017, 09:40 PM
#4
07-13-2017, 11:15 PM
#5
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Aw, come on Sean, there's worse things to put on aluminum engine parts... Purple degreaser, bleach, the list is long and extinguished. 
07-14-2017, 01:07 AM
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07-14-2017, 06:04 AM
#8
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07-14-2017, 08:50 AM
#9
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WD 40. A member of KCPCA purchased a 16V with super low mileage and used WD40 to clean the engine and it is clean enough to eat off of....it literally looks like it got installed yesterday with all new parts.
07-14-2017, 09:18 AM
#10
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I try not to use solvents, but instead use a hand held steamer to spot clean the engine compartment. I have a Mcculloch steamer ($100 before 20% off) at HF. Shot of steam and microfiber clean up. It dries/evaporates almost immediately. Not caustic chemicals.
07-14-2017, 09:41 AM
#11
My favorite is Formula 88 purple degreaser. It's great on everything.
07-14-2017, 09:53 AM
#12
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Warped1a, welcome to Rennlist. You deserve better help. Tough crowd here.
Try Wurth Citrus Degreaser. Also join your PCA Region, and start attending the clubs Concours events, some Regions even hold Concours Schools in the late winter before the concours season starts, you'll learn great tips from your local membes on engine detailing products and techniques. Good luck.
Try Wurth Citrus Degreaser. Also join your PCA Region, and start attending the clubs Concours events, some Regions even hold Concours Schools in the late winter before the concours season starts, you'll learn great tips from your local membes on engine detailing products and techniques. Good luck.
07-14-2017, 11:01 AM
#13
Chronic Tool Dropper
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I'm really timid around most "purple" degreasers because they are at least mildly caustic. Check the labels, as those that are higher in pH than water will usually have a warning about use on aluminum. Like Simple Green though, they are somewhat safe if you can get them completely rinsed off. Completely Rinsed Off.
For heavy deposits I start with mechanical removal -- scraper and paper towels for the thick stuff. A solvent-and-emulsifier like Gunk Engine Brite is next. Then a wash and rinse with a mild detergent (Dawn) mix finishes the job. Then spot clean, polish and detail. Yes Maude, even in the engine bay and the undercarriage.
There are some great recommendations for a few specialty detergents from Sonax (IIRC) in some posts from a year or two ago from Dave C.. I need to go hunt them down. I haven't needed to do any engine cleaning in the last several years that regular car wash soap couldn't cover. However, I noticed during spring cleaning of K's 4Runner that the dealer spilled oil from the filter and failed to clean it up. I may need to try some of that Sonax stuff on the Toyota as a guinea pig. Off to search for that thread...
For heavy deposits I start with mechanical removal -- scraper and paper towels for the thick stuff. A solvent-and-emulsifier like Gunk Engine Brite is next. Then a wash and rinse with a mild detergent (Dawn) mix finishes the job. Then spot clean, polish and detail. Yes Maude, even in the engine bay and the undercarriage.
There are some great recommendations for a few specialty detergents from Sonax (IIRC) in some posts from a year or two ago from Dave C.. I need to go hunt them down. I haven't needed to do any engine cleaning in the last several years that regular car wash soap couldn't cover. However, I noticed during spring cleaning of K's 4Runner that the dealer spilled oil from the filter and failed to clean it up. I may need to try some of that Sonax stuff on the Toyota as a guinea pig. Off to search for that thread...
07-14-2017, 11:28 AM
#14
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From DaveC in 2009. P21S Total Car Wash, diluted 50%.
Dave, any updates to your protocol?
Dave, any updates to your protocol?
Here's how I clean. It's never caused me any problems. I submit what I do as the super-ridiculous **** technique and welcome comments, screams, etc.
First, once the plating on the pressure washers, clamps, fuel lines, etc., has "given up" to protect the metal beneath there's little you can do, except to have it re-plated, to get it looking factory. But, all the non-plated bits can be cleaned-up nice and bright.
My engine bay cleaning technique is definitely Afshin-level ****. I never randomly spray, high-pressure or otherwise, anything in the engine bay. I've run across far too many no-start-after-wash stories and far too much evidence of damage by cleaners to want to do the spray-and-rinse-with-a-hose method. In the engine bay, 20-year old electrical connectors are enough of a problem without getting "stuff" in them.
I target where I spray with a small sprayer. I don't want to get anything on any electrical connectors. I have a bunch of the 8oz Griots spray bottles. They spray a small area, fine, and controllable mist. I clean after I disassemble (with a few exceptions.)
I use P21S Total Car Wash diluted 50/50 with water. P21S is Citrus-based. I spray a small area, let it sit for less than a minute and then wipe off heavy deposits. Then another spray and a brush (not metal, I use old tooth brushes) to loosen up the rest of the deposits. Wipe again. Repeat as necessary or until it's clean enough. For stubborn deposits I'll spray the tooth brush with brake clean and brush and wipe. When I'm satisfied with an area, I use a second small sprayer to mist water on the area then wipe. I repeat that once or twice and then dry. I go through a lot of paper towels.
In the middle of doing a full-monty (timing belt, intake, oil neck, cam covers, water bridge) I can make all the visible non-plated parts of the engine look like the second picture in two to three hours. Yep, it takes a lot of time, but there's no issue with chemicals getting into places I don't want them and the results seem pretty ok.
(Note that the P21S will work on the metal if you leave it on long enough. But, it can sit for many minutes without doing anything other than breaking up the grease/dirt etc.)
First, once the plating on the pressure washers, clamps, fuel lines, etc., has "given up" to protect the metal beneath there's little you can do, except to have it re-plated, to get it looking factory. But, all the non-plated bits can be cleaned-up nice and bright.
My engine bay cleaning technique is definitely Afshin-level ****. I never randomly spray, high-pressure or otherwise, anything in the engine bay. I've run across far too many no-start-after-wash stories and far too much evidence of damage by cleaners to want to do the spray-and-rinse-with-a-hose method. In the engine bay, 20-year old electrical connectors are enough of a problem without getting "stuff" in them.
I target where I spray with a small sprayer. I don't want to get anything on any electrical connectors. I have a bunch of the 8oz Griots spray bottles. They spray a small area, fine, and controllable mist. I clean after I disassemble (with a few exceptions.)
I use P21S Total Car Wash diluted 50/50 with water. P21S is Citrus-based. I spray a small area, let it sit for less than a minute and then wipe off heavy deposits. Then another spray and a brush (not metal, I use old tooth brushes) to loosen up the rest of the deposits. Wipe again. Repeat as necessary or until it's clean enough. For stubborn deposits I'll spray the tooth brush with brake clean and brush and wipe. When I'm satisfied with an area, I use a second small sprayer to mist water on the area then wipe. I repeat that once or twice and then dry. I go through a lot of paper towels.
In the middle of doing a full-monty (timing belt, intake, oil neck, cam covers, water bridge) I can make all the visible non-plated parts of the engine look like the second picture in two to three hours. Yep, it takes a lot of time, but there's no issue with chemicals getting into places I don't want them and the results seem pretty ok.
(Note that the P21S will work on the metal if you leave it on long enough. But, it can sit for many minutes without doing anything other than breaking up the grease/dirt etc.)
