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Old 07-14-2017, 12:55 PM
  #16  
SeanR
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That's why I specified Formula 88.

I also use P21S but in less volume due to cost.

Originally Posted by dr bob
I'm really timid around most "purple" degreasers because they are at least mildly caustic. Check the labels, as those that are higher in pH than water will usually have a warning about use on aluminum. Like Simple Green though, they are somewhat safe if you can get them completely rinsed off. Completely Rinsed Off.

For heavy deposits I start with mechanical removal -- scraper and paper towels for the thick stuff. A solvent-and-emulsifier like Gunk Engine Brite is next. Then a wash and rinse with a mild detergent (Dawn) mix finishes the job. Then spot clean, polish and detail. Yes Maude, even in the engine bay and the undercarriage.

There are some great recommendations for a few specialty detergents from Sonax (IIRC) in some posts from a year or two ago from Dave C.. I need to go hunt them down. I haven't needed to do any engine cleaning in the last several years that regular car wash soap couldn't cover. However, I noticed during spring cleaning of K's 4Runner that the dealer spilled oil from the filter and failed to clean it up. I may need to try some of that Sonax stuff on the Toyota as a guinea pig. Off to search for that thread...
Old 07-14-2017, 02:22 PM
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vanster
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I've been using a high pressure washer with 409 in the soap tank and or mineral sprits. I think Simple Green works on some stuff but like Dr.Bob says any thing purple scares me. Also a lot of water to rinse
Old 07-14-2017, 06:47 PM
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dr bob
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I'm waitlisted/standby on a local pressure washer deal that, if I manage to be among the first nn to get into the store on Tuesday, will save 50% on a pro-sumer pressure washer. I left my last one in SoCal, but there are a few house-cleaning projects that just seem to go better with a good pressure washer. I'm planning on doing a foam-n-flush on the underside of K's 4Runner to purge some of the remaining winter crud on the chassis.

Meanwhile, back in the workshop... I still have the original factory part number/inventory stickers on the engine block and girdle. Anything stronger than hand cleaning and spray-bottle flushing will send those to oblivion. I should probably get set up to regenerate those just in case. And that's why it takes a lot of careful thought when it comes to cleaning engine bits, particularly if you plan to keep things as "as-delivered" as possible. I'm hoping the better pressure washer, loaded with detergent for foam and suitable for hot water, will help with wheelwell and other cosmoline-coated stuff. The rear crossmember and other aluminum suspension bits should benefit from the water-blasting. Film at 11... maybe late next week.
Old 07-14-2017, 07:26 PM
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Rob Edwards
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Bob-

Got any high res pics of the block/girdle stickers, perhaps with a mm ruler nearby? I'm not familiar with those, have seen a couple of '89s up close but don't recall said stickers.
Old 07-14-2017, 07:47 PM
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dr bob
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I'll get some next time the car is up and the trays are off. They are white paper-ish stickers, maybe 0.5" x 2", have part numbers on them. Nothing spectacular about them except they are [still] there. Visible on the left (US drivers) side of the block and girdle, aft of the oil filter area but forward of the motor mount.
Old 07-14-2017, 08:23 PM
  #21  
dr bob
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Sean --

Per the Formula 88 Degreaser Home Depot MSDS

One of the principal actives is sodium metasilicate. The stated pH is 12.


These would cause me to keep it away from critical aluminum stuff. Key of course is concentration, time of exposure, and how well it's flushed/rinsed and neutralized. Not saying it's categorically bad, just suggesting that it takes a LOT of serious care to avoid at least cosmetic damage to aluminum. Are you using it full strength or is it already diluted when you first apply it?
Old 07-14-2017, 10:44 PM
  #22  
worf928
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Originally Posted by dr bob
From DaveC in 2009. P21S Total Car Wash, diluted 50%.

Dave, any updates to your protocol?
Nope. It's still working for me for most stuff. If you buy the P21S by the gallon its not THAT expensive. A little goes a long way even at a 1:1 dilution for really gunky syff. I get my P21S from carcareonline.com. Also there's a relabeled version you can get for about 75% of P21S.

However, I am very close to getting a closed-loop wetblasting machine for quick super-cleaning of the big metal bits. I haven't yet figured out where I'm gonna put it.
Old 07-14-2017, 10:52 PM
  #23  
Rob Edwards
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closed-loop wetblasting machine
Apologies for the thread creep, sorta- Something like this?

http://www.vaporblastingequipment.co...ler-components

Is this a $5K proposition or a $20K proposition?

What price clean? Priceless...
Old 07-15-2017, 09:41 PM
  #24  
worf928
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Originally Posted by Rob Edwards
Yup. That was the machine that got me interested. So, I contacted HQ and got their 'murican distributor.

Is this a $5K proposition or a $20K proposition?
So... >$20k. For the little'un.

However, the American distributor has another line for less than %100 hardcore industrial use: http://wetblast4less.com/products-2/

And these are much, much closer to your first figure.



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