Caliper Rebuild all 4 corners
#16
I cleaned up my SS plates with a bench wire wheel and then reinstalled with High Temp Locktite..primer was heat cured at 425 degrees F, color and clear were heat cured at 250 degrees F
Sanded off the cast ribs for an updated look on the rears'
M030 fronts
Sanded off the cast ribs for an updated look on the rears'
M030 fronts
#20
steet. I replaced them as they had become unglued. fronts are not bad but add ten bucks each on the rears.
Jason has a picture of the plate screws with green Loctite which is between red and blue. from other threads, the purpose is to limit corrosion of the screws. the caliper expansion due to heat would technically break the bond of even red Loctite. the star/torx button heads seem to be a viable option as they would be less prone to strip but.... stainless is pretty soft so it might be wise to stick with the oem material for future rebuilds.
Jason has a picture of the plate screws with green Loctite which is between red and blue. from other threads, the purpose is to limit corrosion of the screws. the caliper expansion due to heat would technically break the bond of even red Loctite. the star/torx button heads seem to be a viable option as they would be less prone to strip but.... stainless is pretty soft so it might be wise to stick with the oem material for future rebuilds.
#21
Same question on the brake pad dampers....bought a set but didn't use them as I'm wondering how one extracts the worn pads that are then glued to the dampers and the dampers are engaged with the caliper pistons? thx
#22
I pull the caliper to pop the dampened pads off the caliper pistons and the reverse to install fresh pads. I found it difficult to position the pads with the sticky exposed when the caliper is mounted.
its just two bolts
its just two bolts
#23
Pad Dampeners
Excellent....very logical to remove the caliper ....I can envision your process off and on and it would work well for sure....thanks for your post!