Clearance of Bendpak MD-6XP--does the GT4 clear?
11-29-2016, 12:46 PM
#16
Race Ramps makes ramps that are specifically made to use with a scissor lift like the Bendpak you are looking at. The model number for the ramps is RR-CLR-4. I bought a set a couple of years ago when I was planning to buy that exact lift you are considering. As it turns out, I did not buy the lift, but I do have the ramps and use them for getting my GT4 up a few inches to make it easier to put it onto jackstands without tilting the car at an extreme angle. The ramps are 4 inches high and are divided into 4 sections on each side, so you can remove the center section to insert a jack or jack stand if you don't use them with a lift and you can remove the sloped part of the ramp, leaving just the parts that are sitting directly under the wheels. The ramps are 14 inches wide and when assembled are 185 inches long. I bought mine on Amazon, which still sells them for about $660 per set. That is very pricy, but considering that they are very light, will not warp, and can be disassembled very easily and stored away, they are worth the money imo, and if you are buying the Bendpak lift, they are almost a must have. You can also drive up on the ramps without worrying about them slipping out because they are very grippy and will not move back as you drive onto them. I have driven the GT4 onto them and the approach is gradual enough that the front spoiler will clear with no problem.
11-29-2016, 02:43 PM
#17
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thats great! Thanks! I saw pictures on the internet of someone with the ramps but I could not find them at Race Ramps. I just ordered a pair.
I ended up ordering the Bendpak MD-6XP instead of 2 center jacks for my 4 post lift. I think this was the better, more convenient option. I still have the option of using the 4 post lift as well if the wheels do not have to come off. The options will let me just work on the cars without much vehicle shuffling.
Scott
I ended up ordering the Bendpak MD-6XP instead of 2 center jacks for my 4 post lift. I think this was the better, more convenient option. I still have the option of using the 4 post lift as well if the wheels do not have to come off. The options will let me just work on the cars without much vehicle shuffling.
Scott
Race Ramps makes ramps that are specifically made to use with a scissor lift like the Bendpak you are looking at. The model number for the ramps is RR-CLR-4. I bought a set a couple of years ago when I was planning to buy that exact lift you are considering. As it turns out, I did not buy the lift, but I do have the ramps and use them for getting my GT4 up a few inches to make it easier to put it onto jackstands without tilting the car at an extreme angle. The ramps are 4 inches high and are divided into 4 sections on each side, so you can remove the center section to insert a jack or jack stand if you don't use them with a lift and you can remove the sloped part of the ramp, leaving just the parts that are sitting directly under the wheels. The ramps are 14 inches wide and when assembled are 185 inches long. I bought mine on Amazon, which still sells them for about $660 per set. That is very pricy, but considering that they are very light, will not warp, and can be disassembled very easily and stored away, they are worth the money imo, and if you are buying the Bendpak lift, they are almost a must have. You can also drive up on the ramps without worrying about them slipping out because they are very grippy and will not move back as you drive onto them. I have driven the GT4 onto them and the approach is gradual enough that the front spoiler will clear with no problem.
11-29-2016, 02:56 PM
#18
Thats great! Thanks! I saw pictures on the internet of someone with the ramps but I could not find them at Race Ramps. I just ordered a pair.
I ended up ordering the Bendpak MD-6XP instead of 2 center jacks for my 4 post lift. I think this was the better, more convenient option. I still have the option of using the 4 post lift as well if the wheels do not have to come off. The options will let me just work on the cars without much vehicle shuffling.
Scott
I ended up ordering the Bendpak MD-6XP instead of 2 center jacks for my 4 post lift. I think this was the better, more convenient option. I still have the option of using the 4 post lift as well if the wheels do not have to come off. The options will let me just work on the cars without much vehicle shuffling.
Scott
One of these days I will get around to ordering the lift again, but will need to figure out another way to deal with the unloading part. I found that the ramps were really all I needed anyway. Now that I have the jack point jack stands, I don't know that I even need the ramps, but since I have them, I use them to avoid jacking the car at an extreme angle. I could achieve the same result with shorter ramps and save some garage space, but I cannot bring myself to part with the ones I have. Will probably be singing a different tune in due time though. I just had back surgery last week and the thought of crouching down to pull my wheels off is not very enticing at the moment.
11-29-2016, 07:11 PM
#19
Rennlist Member
Two things that have helped us (my husband had major back surgeries and can't lift heavy stuff any more, and I'm afraid to hurt my back):
1. We use a regular wheel jack to act like a wheel dolly. Pump the wheel jack up under the tire so it's just barely taking weight off the lugs. Once all lugs are removed - you can adjust the height of the jack if needed - but you can just roll the tire (on the jack) away from the car, and then roll the wheel onto the floor.
2. We bought a wheel dolly (similar to the photo below) The only trick with these is that the Jackpoint Jackstands probably raise the car too high for the wheel dolly to be effective - so we use different stands if we use the wheel dolly. With car up in the air (not too high) roll dolly into place and "pump" hydraulic handle until the rollers each touch the sides of the tire. Once lugs are removed, simply roll the tire away from the car. The weight is born by the dolly.
Both methods work really well. The jack method offers less stability - you have to really watch that the wheel doesn't roll off the jack onto your foot. The dolly is a very stable way of doing it. Either way totally saves your back.
To put the tire back on - it's the same process in reverse. Roll the tire onto the jack or dolly - slide to car - adjust height so lug holes line up, and rotate tire so holes line up, and insert lugs and once the weight is born by the lug bolts - remove the jack or dolly.
Can't recall where we bought the wheel dolly but it wasn't the most expensive, nor cheapest. It'll accommodate a tire of 13". Some are too narrow for really "fat" tires.
11-29-2016, 09:14 PM
#20
Wishing you the best in your recovery!
Two things that have helped us (my husband had major back surgeries and can't lift heavy stuff any more, and I'm afraid to hurt my back):
1. We use a regular wheel jack to act like a wheel dolly. Pump the wheel jack up under the tire so it's just barely taking weight off the lugs. Once all lugs are removed - you can adjust the height of the jack if needed - but you can just roll the tire (on the jack) away from the car, and then roll the wheel onto the floor.
2. We bought a wheel dolly (similar to the photo below) The only trick with these is that the Jackpoint Jackstands probably raise the car too high for the wheel dolly to be effective - so we use different stands if we use the wheel dolly. With car up in the air (not too high) roll dolly into place and "pump" hydraulic handle until the rollers each touch the sides of the tire. Once lugs are removed, simply roll the tire away from the car. The weight is born by the dolly.
Both methods work really well. The jack method offers less stability - you have to really watch that the wheel doesn't roll off the jack onto your foot. The dolly is a very stable way of doing it. Either way totally saves your back.
To put the tire back on - it's the same process in reverse. Roll the tire onto the jack or dolly - slide to car - adjust height so lug holes line up, and rotate tire so holes line up, and insert lugs and once the weight is born by the lug bolts - remove the jack or dolly.
Can't recall where we bought the wheel dolly but it wasn't the most expensive, nor cheapest. It'll accommodate a tire of 13". Some are too narrow for really "fat" tires.
Two things that have helped us (my husband had major back surgeries and can't lift heavy stuff any more, and I'm afraid to hurt my back):
1. We use a regular wheel jack to act like a wheel dolly. Pump the wheel jack up under the tire so it's just barely taking weight off the lugs. Once all lugs are removed - you can adjust the height of the jack if needed - but you can just roll the tire (on the jack) away from the car, and then roll the wheel onto the floor.
2. We bought a wheel dolly (similar to the photo below) The only trick with these is that the Jackpoint Jackstands probably raise the car too high for the wheel dolly to be effective - so we use different stands if we use the wheel dolly. With car up in the air (not too high) roll dolly into place and "pump" hydraulic handle until the rollers each touch the sides of the tire. Once lugs are removed, simply roll the tire away from the car. The weight is born by the dolly.
Both methods work really well. The jack method offers less stability - you have to really watch that the wheel doesn't roll off the jack onto your foot. The dolly is a very stable way of doing it. Either way totally saves your back.
To put the tire back on - it's the same process in reverse. Roll the tire onto the jack or dolly - slide to car - adjust height so lug holes line up, and rotate tire so holes line up, and insert lugs and once the weight is born by the lug bolts - remove the jack or dolly.
Can't recall where we bought the wheel dolly but it wasn't the most expensive, nor cheapest. It'll accommodate a tire of 13". Some are too narrow for really "fat" tires.
11-29-2016, 10:11 PM
#21
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Shadingo, wishing you a speedy recovery. I have had 2 lumbar radics, one bad and one not so bad, but have recovered well without surgery. Ironically, I am a physician that treats back pain and radiculopathies. Having the problem myself gave me a different and realistic insight on back injuries. I'm no longer crawling under jack stands, twisting, bending and contorting myself if I can avoid it.
Anyone with any clever ideas on how to get this thing onto the garage floor? I have it being delivered with the lift gait service. I have considered renting a pellet jack, using steel pipes as rollers, using multiple heavy duty furniture dollies, using jacks, etc but I am not sure how well they will work. It weighs nearly 950 pounds. I have a slight incline along 40 feet of driveway and a smooth transition into the garage.
Anyone with any clever ideas on how to get this thing onto the garage floor? I have it being delivered with the lift gait service. I have considered renting a pellet jack, using steel pipes as rollers, using multiple heavy duty furniture dollies, using jacks, etc but I am not sure how well they will work. It weighs nearly 950 pounds. I have a slight incline along 40 feet of driveway and a smooth transition into the garage.
11-29-2016, 10:20 PM
#22
Shadingo, wishing you a speedy recovery. I have had 2 lumbar radics, one bad and one not so bad, but have recovered well without surgery. Ironically, I am a physician that treats back pain and radiculopathies. Having the problem myself gave me a different and realistic insight on back injuries. I'm no longer crawling under jack stands, twisting, bending and contorting myself if I can avoid it.
Anyone with any clever ideas on how to get this thing onto the garage floor? I have it being delivered with the lift gait service. I have considered renting a pellet jack, using steel pipes as rollers, using multiple heavy duty furniture dollies, using jacks, etc but I am not sure how well they will work. It weighs nearly 950 pounds. I have a slight incline along 40 feet of driveway and a smooth transition into the garage.
Anyone with any clever ideas on how to get this thing onto the garage floor? I have it being delivered with the lift gait service. I have considered renting a pellet jack, using steel pipes as rollers, using multiple heavy duty furniture dollies, using jacks, etc but I am not sure how well they will work. It weighs nearly 950 pounds. I have a slight incline along 40 feet of driveway and a smooth transition into the garage.
11-29-2016, 10:26 PM
#23
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I can probably get a forklift here but they aren't cheap to rent. They told me it will be delivered by a 18 wheeler. An 18 wheeler will unlikely be able to back up to my garage.
11-30-2016, 12:17 AM
#24
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Well, I am going plan by this and assemble the pump cart and hopefully I will then be able to drag it to the garage with the pump cart. https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...rise-lift.html
Last edited by fishing; 11-30-2016 at 01:15 AM.
11-30-2016, 01:02 AM
#25
Well, I am going to by this and assemble the pump cart, hopefully I will then be able to drag it to the garage with the pump cart. https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...rise-lift.html
12-10-2016, 11:14 AM
#26
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I originally denied the package due to destroyed crates and significant scratching. I talked with Bendpak and they were nice. and accommodating. They had it repackaged on a new crate which really helped with unloading. The new crate had 2 plywood boards separated with 2 by 4s.
I rented a 6 x 12 UHaul utility trailer with ramp. https://www.uhaul.com/Trailers/6x12-...amp-Rental/HO/
The shipper placed the lift on the trailer using a forklift. I made sure the lift dolly connection was facing the rear of the trailer.
I backed the trailer partly into the garage.
I used a Come Along Hoist to slide the lift until we could push it to teeter totter over the edge. It was still on the crate. The hoist was attached to the dolly connection.
We teetered the lift and crate onto the ramp and it slid in a very control matter to the bottom of the ramp.
I then placed my 4 post lift's ramps under the leading edge of the plywood crate. I hooked the Bendpak dolly to the lift and cut all the restraining straps to free up the lift. Using the dolly I pulled the lift off the crate and off the trailer ramp at the same time and down my 4 post lift ramps which were just under the leading edge of the crate. It worked like a charm. It was all downhill as the lift was resting on the trailer ramp and at the edge of the crate. The crate was on the trailer ramp and the leading edge was on the garage floor. The top plywood board was just over the edge of my auto ramps. The dolly wheels were resting on the auto lift ramps from the start, making it very secure.
Sorry, I don't have pics.
Last edited by fishing; 12-10-2016 at 11:40 AM.
