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So, in general, is a '99 with unchanged dual-row bearing better than a 2000-01 that has had the bearing changed (ceramic LN)? I have been assuming immediate bearing/clutch work regardless unless it has been recently done. Part of the calculus.
Nice 912! And congrats on your decision to get a 996!
I bought a 2000 cab about 6 months ago with 93k on the odo. In doing my research I found out the changeover from dual to single row IMSB happened sometime mid-2000. So, not knowing which bearing I had, I elected to do the swap right away. My car still had original clutch and it pulled strong with no slippage. Frankly, the car ran so good I was tempted to reconsider... but my research had made me a bit paranoid. Had I gotten a '99 with the same driving characteristics I probably would have just installed an IMS Guardian.
But when we got between the engine and transmission it turned out the clutch was down to the rivets on the pressure plate side. Had I driven the car much further on that clutch the flywheel would have gotten scarred and needed replacing as well.
I did not get any service history with the car so the clutch was going to get done regardless. At the end of the day, saving the flywheel more than justified the cost of the Vertex IMSB that went in. And having done the full gamut of swapping the 996 "alphabet" of preventative maintenance part swapping, I now drive the car with considerably more peace of mind and I feel like the old girl is well poised to have a good shot at going another 93k.
I could have paid a premium for one with service history, but elected to start fresh with a lower cost car that passed engine PPI and excellent body and paint work. With the work performed since purchase and the receipts for parts I've installed on my own I've started reestablishing service history on my own. No regrets, I'd do it all again and I know my car that much better as a result.
These cars can be hit or miss, just know what signs to look for that could tell you if someone is trying to dump a problem engine. There are many people out there with high-mileage original cars.
So, following up, I came across a silver 1999 that is listed for $16,950 at an out-of-town dealer. I would like to do a PPI, and the seller will let it go 10 miles to a mechanic--a Porsche dealer is in the area. Before I do that, I have some concerns:
- The Carfax says it was originally purchased in April of 1998, not sure if this is relevant (build quality?), or possible.
- Being from a dealer, the car was traded in and sold at auction so it has no hard-copy service history.
- The car has low miles, only 70K, less than 4K/year--I have heard this could be bad.
- The carfax records show the car has mainly been serviced in Santa Monica/Beverly Hills/Culver City
- At 70K car is probably due for a clutch and who knows what else, and probably has the original IMS bearing--I am sure no one has done this for me.
- The car is bone-stock with 17" turbo twist wheels, and well-worn Michelin Pilot Sport tires. I think these are not cheap rubber though and might indicate prior care.
- Cosmetically, the car looks pretty good for a 18+ year-old--I'd say top 20% at least.
- The car was purchased at auction a year ago, and only put into stock 5 months ago--not sure why, but it wasn't put out immediately, or hasn't sold--is there something wrong?
Pricing guides are not helping me since there are so many variables, but I think if the seller dropped his price a bit, and the PPI revealed no MAJOR issues, it might be a good deal.
70k miles is no prob to me. Doubt it will need a clutch, unless it was driven by a goofball SoCal jerkwad(likely I guess).
As for not being put out for sale right away, who knows? I ran across a dealer that bought one and drove it around for a few months before selling. Could be pretty common.
Price is good depending on condition.
For PPI - have the oil drained into a white cloth and look for metal particles. Then, remove the oil filter, and inspect the pleats under a very bright light looking for metal particles. If it passes this test FIRST, then continue on with the rest of the PPI as you see fit.
Silver is not my color, but if that floats your boat - do it and don't look back. The option sticker is on the frunk lid. Post up the codes and we'll figure it out.
So, following up, I came across a silver 1999 that is listed for $16,950 at an out-of-town dealer. I would like to do a PPI, and the seller will let it go 10 miles to a mechanic--a Porsche dealer is in the area. Before I do that, I have some concerns:
- The Carfax says it was originally purchased in April of 1998, not sure if this is relevant (build quality?), or possible.
- Being from a dealer, the car was traded in and sold at auction so it has no hard-copy service history.
- The car has low miles, only 70K, less than 4K/year--I have heard this could be bad.
- The carfax records show the car has mainly been serviced in Santa Monica/Beverly Hills/Culver City
- At 70K car is probably due for a clutch and who knows what else, and probably has the original IMS bearing--I am sure no one has done this for me.
- The car is bone-stock with 17" turbo twist wheels, and well-worn Michelin Pilot Sport tires. I think these are not cheap rubber though and might indicate prior care.
- Cosmetically, the car looks pretty good for a 18+ year-old--I'd say top 20% at least.
- The car was purchased at auction a year ago, and only put into stock 5 months ago--not sure why, but it wasn't put out immediately, or hasn't sold--is there something wrong?
Pricing guides are not helping me since there are so many variables, but I think if the seller dropped his price a bit, and the PPI revealed no MAJOR issues, it might be a good deal.
Nice! Sounds really promising... I agree with Doc's advice.
And to add to his comments, production of MY '99 cars actually started in late '97. According to THE Porsche 996 engine guru, the cars made '98 were made prior to a factory fire that caused Porsche to hurriedly re-work engines that had previously failed quality control in order to keep up with production. Cars that were made after that fire are MUCH more likely to have an IMSB issue. I would look at that build date as a plus. Put a magnetic drain plug on the car, or the IMS Guardian and forget about replacing the bearing. (assuming PPI is clean)
I have attached an options sticker. The car drives nice and solid, but it is pretty bare bones which is maybe ok for me. There are a few cosmetic problems on the interior: The vanity mirrors won't stay open, the right rear seat latch is missing a plastic cap, some of the AC vent fins in the dash don't move with the wheel, and the radio has lost it's code so I could not check it--they said a dealer would have the code. On the exterior, it is missing the cap to the tow hitch on the front bumper, there is some minor rash on some of the 17" wheels, there are some minor scratches on the rear deck lid, and some sort of solvent has made a spot on the rear spoiler.
They have dropped the price to $14,500--still not sure this the best price for a 18 year-old car with 70K miles. But it is incredibly fun to drive.
I think I am going to shop around for PPI in the Riverside, CA area--I really want to know what I am dealing with, but need to make sure the price is in the ballpark.
Just an update: it is a long story, but I got halfway through a PPI and called it off right away--too much wrong. Made me realize an earlier seller had a much better car. I contacted him and he was able to get all his maintenance documents, including the original window sticker, and I met with his mechanic for an hours-long PPI/interrogation.
Felt good about the purchase, wrote a check, and now I am the new owner of an Arctic Silver 2000 996.
Congrats on the purchase. I think 996's are great car to own. Of the many cars in my stable, it is one of my favorite for the reason that it is like a canvas for me. Since it is not a collector car, you can do all sorts of modifications and not worry about what you will do with the value. I have modified just about everything in the car except the engine, which is possibly the next step. I recently had the whole car refreshed and repainted. And the best part is id doesn't have all of the computer control and I get to do my own shifting. If you ever want some ideas, just PM me. I have included some pics after the repaint and with the new MK11 bumper.
MkII bumper and tinted tail lights.
All new paint, lowered and de-ambered litronic headlights with center radiator. Looks nice with my lambo
BTW...I have a 912 as well that I am trying to figure out what to do with....I must say, I love what you did to yours....gives me some ideas.
lowpue....love the yellow car!!
brwilson....congrats, looks like a nice find.
just a sidenote on this commentary.....i find it interesting how many people on this forum value "documentation" of all work done by a "reputable" shop, and then talk about DIY wrenching. There is no documentation for DIY unless you keep receipts of the parts you purchase, and even then the buyer must trust the seller that he/she knows how to wrench properly. Surely many of us are good mechanics, but when it comes to purchasing a car it seems the only thing that matters is documentation (and a PPI).
please discuss.....
Good points. This sounds like a good topic for a new thread altogether... why don't you start a new one with an appropriate title (will get much more appropriate responses that way) rather than divert this thread in another direction... just a suggestion.
To the OP - Congrats on the purchase! Nice looking car!
11-05-2016, 08:31 PM
