swartzzz

I am in the process of working with Essex to get a six line set made for a 997.2. Using Spiegler Stainless Brake lines, and lengthening the rigid line that is connecting the line to the caliper. I have GiroDisc 350mm rotors, and everytime the rotors are removed, you need to remove the small screw that holds the line to the spindle. It is a real pita. I sent three lines to them to do some measuring and make me the initial set. I will be doing a few photos when I do the change.

Read about the six line kit:
https://rennlist.com/forums/gt4/9418...ard-lines.html

Quadcammer

Point Is that whoever told you brake lines last 10 years is wrong so you don't have to spend any money at all

Bruce In Philly

I drove 197K miles on my 2000 Boxster S lines.

Peace
Bruce in Philly

Tom Feldmann

Installed my StopTech SS braided lines today..haven't been out for a drive yet so I can't comment about any difference in feel but I noticed the inside diameter seemed to be smaller on the StopTech than the OEM lines. Both the fronts and rears are exactly the same on the 997.1. Oddly you'll need a different size line wrench for the fitting attached to the car(7/16th) than the fitting attached to the caliper(10mm)...go figure right? Italian calipers attached to a German automobile.

Picked these up for ~$64 from Rock Auto.

Here's a few shots:

Stock:


StopTech SS Braided:


Differences


Differences


Rear (no plastic protective coils on the rear lines)


The connection point behind the rear caliper

Petza914

Looks great. Everything I'm sure you'll feel a firmness difference.

The fittings are a different size intentionally do you can hold one with 1 wrench while holding the other with a different wrench so as not to twist the metal hard line.
One issue with factory rubber brake lines, even if they are reinforced, is that they're rubber inside, and from contact with the brake fluid makes the rubber swell up over time, narrowing the passageway. The good stainless lines are Teflon inside so they don't have this issue.

Bruce In Philly

Nice job! Thanx for the pix...... now cut that old line open !!!

Did you need a flare wrench? Were the nuts corroded?

Peace
Bruce in Philly

Smitten

You missed adding the crazy theory emoji.

OKB

knows alot more about computers than about mechanics

Tom Feldmann

Nope, no need for a flare tool or any other "special" tool. Just line wrenches and open ended wrenches will get it done. Flare tool is for making hard lines. All I did was replace the flexible lines with SS Braids.

The nuts were not corroded though one of my caliper bleeders was plugged up with crap..had to remove it and clean it out because it wouldn't bleed. Will probably pull the caliper this winter and give it a going over to make sure there isn't more crap in it. The fluid did eventually run clean though.

Took her for a spin tonight and the brakes felt great! I get a bit more feel out of them..if that makes any sense. It's not really firmer or softer..they just feel like I can modulate them more precisely. I did also change pads and fluid though so obviously this isn't a 1 to 1 comparison.

Here's a pic of the inside of the stock lines.

Iceter

From the pic, it seems the answer to the OP's question is that the stock hoses are not metal braided. That winding looks like a textile, not metal.

Bruce In Philly

Fabulous..... thanx so much for this..... looks like nylon braid. So....... is steel braid any better than nylon? Me thinks not.

Peace
Bruce in Philly

nwGTS

brake systems can reach 1200+ PSI. Someone smarter than I can do something with that info to gauge tensile strength of nylon vs SS.

OKB

obviously rubber tube not teflon

Jason @ Paragon Products

Another option to consider:

http://www.paragon-products.com/Pors...-p/por1700.htm

Bruce In Philly

2009 C2S 104K miles

Thanks Tom! I just installed the exact same StopTech lines as Tom (same part number) and I flushed using my new Motiv bleeder.

Why did I put on SS lines? I dunno, they cost me $80 for two packs of two via Amazon (Tom got a way better deal) and I wanted to have some fun. I had to replace the rotors, pads and flush fluid in my wifes Lexus IS250, I needed to re-flush mine too... well it got out of hand and I ordered the Motiv and lines. Don't drink and surf Amazon at the same time.

Result? Best brake feel I ever had... more solid. So the SS lines are better? Naw, I can't believe I can really tell..... my brakes were getting mushy so I guess I just don't remember what a solid pedal was.... but my pedal sure is hard now.

Tip: Tom shows that the old Porsche springy-thing can be easily removed from the old lines and installed on the new.... very easy to do.
Tip for dopes: If you do just your rears, then your fronts like I did, then remove the pressure from your power bleeder or you will have a big puddle of fluid (like I did).

The Motiv bleeder is really nice but honestly, if you have a friend to pump the pedal, you will get your job done faster than dicking with the power bleeder. But, if you don't have a friend, then the Motiv is a must.
Tip: I needed to get an additional Motiv cap for my other car.... oddly, it was cheaper to get the Euro bottle with the add on Lexus cap, than the other way around.

Those Porsche hoses are really well built. The nylon mesh is a multi-layer thing and I suspect very strong and I can't believe they would expand at all. The inner tube is just rubber.... I understand Teflon tubes to be more harder plastic-like. Does an inner rubber tube make things not good? Naw, I ran 197K miles on my original Porsche brake lines on my Boxster and never had an issue.

So.... should you do SS lines? Sure! If you like being entertained by this stuff, otherwise, forget it.

Peace
Bruce in Philly