V2Rocket

that's hard core.

Noahs944

Per, would you please show an example?

Per vers

Unfortunately i can't take pictures of the car, for the moment.

I saw the solution on "Wheeler dealer" about building a Ford Escort rally car.
Instead of one hole whit a screw, you make to holes and use a ziptie as fastener.

Noahs944

Scott, thank you for your wheel scraper idea! Brilliant!

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I do think lefty is pretty amazing.
Maybe its a phase that will get boring but for now it's opening doors for me.

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I'd like to get more throttle happy, but the biggest problem I have is the front end getting "too light" for my comfort at around 70 mph on gravel.

Noahs944

Started researching this Group B model.
Generally I don't like Ford, but they have some gems:

Noahs944

Okay lets diffuse the situation




I started building a rear diffuser (using "clean lines" as you suggested for aero stuff in the past) but there was a "mental disconnect" for lack of a better word, because our cars with the rear transaxle and fuel tank & exhaust... but with a pan that begins in the front & progresses rearward I'm hoping the car will show me what is required.

Per vers

"I'd like to get more throttle happy, but the biggest problem I have is the front end getting "too light" for my comfort at around 70 mph on gravel. "

Try more narrow tyres. Like 165/75 15.

Noahs944

Hmmmmmm Per, that sounds like a very good suggestion. Thank you!

Noahs944

http://www.formula1-dictionary.net/drifting.html
Compound corner drifting. That's my next goal!!

Noahs944

Noahs944

Started building a "flat bottom" pan to protect the underside of the car and possibly improve aero. Reusing aluminum that I had already.

Noahs944

So Epic!

Noahs944

Positioning and designing before I drill & rivet.
Under at the back: The clearance from nose to tail is 6" with this ride height.

Over at the back:

Noahs944

The rivets will not be from the body to the panels but from panels to brackets which will get bolted to the body (alum to alum & steel to steel). Trying to make it as convenient & quick as possible for servicing the vehicle. As it is the batwing section takes longer than I like, but I'm bound to conform to Porsche's valence design, and it's not too bad. I hope to make the middle section super quick & easy. Like 5 mins to remove, 5 to reinstall. The batwing is like 10 to remove & 10 to install.

We won't know how much added features are required to make the centre section rigid & quiet in all around driving conditions. Its something like 8 feet long (rear of oil pan to rear of tranny) It needs a lot of stiffening!

5mm thick sounds IDEAL. Just today I was driving on gravel & saw a 7-9" boulder on the road. I knew my existing batwing oil pan protector wasn't enough, especially since I only have 6" clearance.

The sheets are probably 1mm thick or thinner. I am keeping everything lightweight, so anticipated weight including the batwing/nose tray centre section and rear diffuser (yet to be added) will come in at around 60 lbs.

I hope that it'll pay for itself by saving weight (mud is heavy!) and just keep the undercarriage safe from fuel line damage & rust & so on. Keep mud off the bottom of the car. The purpose is prevent fuel lines from spraying on exhaust when I go off the road, and to deflect rocks from the steer tires that are literally destroying the exhaust, and to improve aero on the tarmac.

At a later date I hope to add select beefy guards that will hide above this pan, to not hinder air flow.

----btw-click on the little "youtube" icon on the video that I posted earlier... it's really good.

fwb42

Noah, What about spraying foam between the body and your panels. Just in areas where there would be no heat or movement. Spray on panel, trim to fit. Almost no weight. Just thinking outside the box a little.