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Hey all - so, finally took the hard top off the car yesterday. The PPI told me the window was "delaminated" from the top, but I hadn't seen it with my own eyes yet.
Well, I was surprised by two things - first, the top was covered in dog hair. Apparently the previous owner had a mutt who enjoyed riding in the car. Kids had fun removing it with strips of tape.
Second surprise, I imagined the window would be literally falling out of the top. On closer inspection, it appears that while the bond is letting go, it isn't completely torn away yet. It still looks like it wouldn't let water get in too badly.
I've searched other threads but couldn't find any definitive advice. I am thinking I can use some sort of canvas glue/caulk/sealant to fill in the gap.
I don't need it to protect through torrential downpours, but would be nice to not have to replace the top completely, because it is in really good condition. Worst case I guess I could grab my wife's sewing kit...
I was able to sew the bottom up fairly easily. Took some heavy thread, canvas needles, and a few pliers to push and pull the needles. The sides and top at that time weren't coming off so I'm not sure if there is good access to get to them or not. Some regular clear silicone seems to do the trick to seal it back up.
I was able to sew the bottom up fairly easily. Took some heavy thread, canvas needles, and a few pliers to push and pull the needles. The sides and top at that time weren't coming off so I'm not sure if there is good access to get to them or not. Some regular clear silicone seems to do the trick to seal it back up.
Thanks Chiamac - yeah, I saw you made that happen in one of the threads I searched.
I think I will test it's weather resistance integrity first. If the seal isn't broken, hence not allowing water to drip in, I might try a glue base followed by clear silicon layer on top.
I think I will test it's weather resistance integrity first. If the seal isn't broken, hence not allowing water to drip in, I might try a glue base followed by clear silicon layer on top.
You can try, but that's not likely to work. Plus, before fixing, the bottom of mine went from just a few holes an inch or so big, to the whole thing pretty much coming undone. Took not even a summer of parking it outside at work. So I'd just sew it up, and if it's still together you will have a easier time doing it.
You can try, but that's not likely to work. Plus, before fixing, the bottom of mine went from just a few holes an inch or so big, to the whole thing pretty much coming undone. Took not even a summer of parking it outside at work. So I'd just sew it up, and if it's still together you will have a easier time doing it.
This is true.
While we're talking tops - I know most convertibles, general consensus is it's better to store/park them for longer times with the top up.
Is it the same for these? Or is it irrelevant, due to the design of the top/folding system?
I've had three convertible cars and if anything I've learned about these fancy convertible mechanisms is to use them as much as possible. Motors lock up, moving parts get rusty, etc. etc. etc. And so, IMHO, one of the best things you can do is cycle the top open and closed on a regular basis. This is one major reason reason why I prefer NOT to install a hard top during the winter months because the convertible top system in dormant state can lock up thus causing all sorts of issues when you go to use again. Just my 2 cents worth.
Now... regarding glue. I wouldn't recommend it; rather, you best bet is either tackle sewing it properly or.... go with a newer top that has a real glass window. There are many aftermarket versions, but I'd still advise you to get a professional to install it to safe a mountain of frustration.
Now... regarding glue. I wouldn't recommend it; rather, you best bet is either tackle sewing it properly or.... go with a newer top that has a real glass window. There are many aftermarket versions, but I'd still advise you to get a professional to install it to save a mountain of frustration.
I've had three convertible cars and if anything I've learned about these fancy convertible mechanisms is to use them as much as possible. Motors lock up, moving parts get rusty, etc. etc. etc. And so, IMHO, one of the best things you can do is cycle the top open and closed on a regular basis. This is one major reason reason why I prefer NOT to install a hard top during the winter months because the convertible top system in dormant state can lock up thus causing all sorts of issues when you go to use again. Just my 2 cents worth.
Now... regarding glue. I wouldn't recommend it; rather, you best bet is either tackle sewing it properly or.... go with a newer top that has a real glass window. There are many aftermarket versions, but I'd still advise you to get a professional to install it to safe a mountain of frustration.
Cheers!
Thanks for the input, b3freak. I was very happy when the top worked beautifully after being folded away for 4 months, and will definitely be cycling it more now.
Say you were parking it in the garage for a week - top up or down, or does it matter?
Again, just my humble opinion... Because moisture is a contributing factor to causing all the moving parts to lockup and deteriorate, I'd say, it would be a good idea to at least cycle it through once a week. You'll thank me! Plus, unless you have a durametric, shop manual, proper tools, and a butt load of patience, then I would recommend going to a convertible shop that specializes in Porsche convertibles. It's expensive, but of course, you know we're all are subject to the "porsche tax" where ever we take our cars.
Again, just my humble opinion... Because moisture is a contributing factor to causing all the moving parts to lockup and deteriorate, I'd say, it would be a good idea to at least cycle it through once a week. You'll thank me! Plus, unless you have a durametric, shop manual, proper tools, and a butt load of patience, then I would recommend going to a convertible shop that specializes in Porsche convertibles. It's expensive, but of course, you know we're all are subject to the "porsche tax" where ever we take our cars.
I mean, I can replace my tire stem caps and replace my pumpkins, but no way in hell would I ever try to do a top.
I have a guy who is handy with a needle and thread...
I used E6800 glue to hold it in place, followed by a proper stitching to make it secure. Use waterproofing spray and avoid the silicone. The silicone just makes a mess.
6 years later, it's still holding up like a champ.
I used E6800 glue to hold it in place, followed by a proper stitching to make it secure. Use waterproofing spray and avoid the silicone. The silicone just makes a mess.
6 years later, it's still holding up like a champ.
I tried repairing mine a couple of years ago. I glued, clamped, and sewed it. It is a really unpleasant job and unless you're very good at it, it won't look very good and your hands will suffer multiple puncture wounds. My repair got me through the season but I had a new top installed the following year. Even if the top looks good at first glance, it is still a 15+ year old top and is likely due for replacement.
I tried repairing mine a couple of years ago. I glued, clamped, and sewed it. It is a really unpleasant job and unless you're very good at it, it won't look very good and your hands will suffer multiple puncture wounds. My repair got me through the season but I had a new top installed the following year. Even if the top looks good at first glance, it is still a 15+ year old top and is likely due for replacement.
This is also a good angle to consider, thanks for the input.
08-29-2016, 02:37 PM
Best glue to shore up convertible window seam?
