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Ignition Switch Rebuild?

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Old Aug 6, 2016 | 05:45 PM
  #16  
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For the reasonable cost of a new one and the consequences possible of one that fails in the field (or freeway) I'd just get a replacement - but make sure its a real OEM type - not a Chinese knockoff

Alan
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Old Aug 6, 2016 | 06:01 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Alan
For the reasonable cost of a new one and the consequences possible of one that fails in the field (or freeway) I'd just get a replacement - but make sure its a real OEM type - not a Chinese knockoff

Alan
Alan-
I agree, I am waiting on mine to arrive. I am mostly doing it to troubleshoot a no-start issue
-Wes
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Old Aug 7, 2016 | 02:18 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by wessideg
Alan-
I agree, I am waiting on mine to arrive. I am mostly doing it to troubleshoot a no-start issue
-Wes
What are the symptoms? What model year 928 do you have?
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Old Aug 7, 2016 | 02:31 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Randy V
What are the symptoms? What model year 928 do you have?
I have a half 928... a 1985/5 944

It uses the same switch. The symptoms are no secondary voltage at the coil, and the switch looking like:




Wes
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Old Sep 16, 2016 | 05:28 AM
  #20  
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Default How hard to replace the ignition switch?

So, I seem to have a failing ignition switch only on the X-bus circuit. I had thoughts too about cleaning mine .... sometimes the old parts seem to be of better quality. But you guys think it's better to just get a new one?

How hard is it to get the switch out? Is there a FAQ somewhere?

Thanks,
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Old Sep 21, 2016 | 02:02 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by JB928
So, I seem to have a failing ignition switch only on the X-bus circuit. I had thoughts too about cleaning mine .... sometimes the old parts seem to be of better quality. But you guys think it's better to just get a new one?

How hard is it to get the switch out? Is there a FAQ somewhere?

Thanks,
JB928-
I can't give you good feedback, as I am working with a half 928, a 1985.5 944...but I can tell you it takes a contortionist to get under the dash to gain access to the ignition switch (especially at 6'5"). On the 944, taking the gauge cluster out does help with the top screw on the ignition switch, but unless you are Inspector Gadget, it will still require some uncomfortable positioning under the drivers side foot-well.
Wes
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Old Sep 21, 2016 | 12:36 PM
  #22  
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on a 928 you have to remove the steering wheel, instrument pod, and cluster to be able to get to the two screws which hold the electrical switch to the back of the lock cylinder.
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Old Sep 21, 2016 | 11:49 PM
  #23  
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I usually take out the driver's seat to make access easier.

Be absolutely certain to disconnect the battery before you approach the switch with a screwdriver.
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Old Sep 22, 2016 | 12:36 AM
  #24  
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Mark Anderson came in to work one day and found one of the soon to be dismantled 928s in the side yard RUNNING !!!! Yep the ignition electrical switch malfunctioned and started the car sounds like something I want to try to repair . Just make sure it is always pointed in the right direction.
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Old Sep 22, 2016 | 01:02 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Bernie
Hey Folks,

So, completely by accident today I discovered the source of my intermittent electrical problems. It turns out that it is the ignition switch. It seems to have a deadzone when the car is started. I have play back and forth on the key when the car is in the run position.

Sometimes its my brake lights, sometimes my cooling fan, sometimes my power windows and sometimes my headlights.

Are these switches rebuildable? Having never taken one apart, I thought I would get some opinions and even some pics of the switch taken apart if available?

TIA
Bernie
My opinion:

Buy a new one.....enough 928s burn from bad fuel lines, no need to add home rebuilt ignition switches.into the mix.
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Old Sep 23, 2016 | 04:59 AM
  #26  
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Default Ignition Switch

Thanks for the info guys. I'll order a new switch and see if that fixes my woes. I was looking at the switch, are you guys sure you can't get the screws out without pulling the pod apart?

Thanks again,
Jonathan
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Old Sep 23, 2016 | 11:27 AM
  #27  
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Well, yes. It's possible to get to the screws with the pod in place. People have done it.

However, taking the pod out is pretty simple (Dwayne's writeup is a good one to use).

Having taken the pod out a few times, I can have it out in about 10 minutes. Back in in less than 20.

The difficulty of taking the switch out with the pod in place outweighs the difficulty of taking the pod out, IMO.
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Old Sep 23, 2016 | 03:16 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by JB928
you guys sure you can't get the screws out without pulling the pod apart?
I've done it using a short 90* screw driver.
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Old Sep 23, 2016 | 05:18 PM
  #29  
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I believe that Randy once built a ship in a bottle too
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Old Sep 23, 2016 | 07:29 PM
  #30  
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Only after consuming the contents of said bottle. The phrase "ship-faced" springs to mind but I can't seem to work it into a conversation. You are what you drink?

--

A small 90º ratcheting screwdriver makes it possible to extract the switch without lifting the pod. Unless you have radio-announcer's hands (wee paws for station identification, a job requirement apparently), it's less work to lift the pod and move the multi-switch (after removing the steering wheel...)
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