NYC993

Nah no signs of rubbing. The car is not that low, has stock rims/tires and no spacers.

JPS

Bill you said Hoosiers run circles around you. Aren't you running Hoosiers?

Bill Verburg

No NT01 235/4o & 275/35 x18
current set
16 hard days, mostly open track & Advanced days, 2839mi

NYC993

That's promising. I should be able to get entire season on NT01s.

JPS

How on earth do you get such good wear? I don't get near that many days.

Foxman

I didn't want to start a new thread, but wondering the same question for my silver C2S which needs a new suspension. The car is principally used for tracking and A/X (the two may be a bit at odds with each other), but I don't trailer the car and still need to be able to drive the car on the road to and from events (or the shop). Focus is on the new suspension and bushings.

Is this still the right list from Bill V below? Any other recommendations? My mechanic seems adept at track set ups, and had recommended 400 lb. front coils and 500 lb. rear coils.

Thanks, Jim

From Bill V:

"Here's the recipe for an extremely nice and capable dual purpose 993
Elephant sport bushes on both ends of the front A-arms
RS rear A-arms, & KT arms
new stock camber links
Tarett or Rennline toe links
MCS shocks 600/800 springs
RS sways
RS wheel carriers and think about solid rear sidemounts"

NYC993

To follow up here since I'm the OP.
I now have the following and have been pretty happy so far. I drive in white/black groups. I had instructor come out with me and his comment was "very well set up car".

Here is what I have:
-9x18 and 11x18 wheels with 225/275 NT01s - this is the most noticable upgrade. Much stiffer sidewalls.
-RS sway bars (max stiff in front, middle in the rear). I'd like to losen front a bit and stiffen the rear further as car now understeers more than it used to when i had full soft rear and front.
-1.6 camber front -2.5 camber rear
- H&R street coil overs
- rear tarett tow links
- elephant lca sport bushings
- gt2 inner tie rods - more precise steering
- pagid yellows (getting girodisk for front)

Edit: gt3 seats and harnesses - best upgrade.

I wore out nt01s in 15 days because I ran pressures too low. I was running them in 25F tepms in april, which I'm sure didnt help. Gonna keep them at 35-37psi hot after cool down lap and see how it goes.

Bill Verburg

yes, 600/800 is on the low end, the shocks are so good and adjustable that they are going to be very streetable.

You have an additional issue w/ an S in that the rear will often have wider than a n/b wheel and tire and wider track in back, these induce additional understeer, to correct it the the rear shocks should probably be another 50-100# stiffer

I'd also use the Tarrett RSR inner toe arms, mono-ball shock mounts will help get the suspension where you want it though the rear will still be camber limited unless additional steps are taken.

on a tracked car aero is huge CS aero for that, for A/X the RS or stock is fine and you hvae even more of a desire to dial under steer out.

ride height is also huge but w/o RS wheel carriers you are limited to a bit under RoW M030 height

Bill Verburg

It's all in the setup, I have Dan Jacobs to thank for that.

Meatball964

Martin S.

I have done all of the above, except, my springs are 100 Lbs stiffer front & rear, and I don't have RS rear A arms. But I do have the full ERP rear linkage treatment.

My car was driven by Craig Stanton, pro-driver, at Buttonwillow Raceway. When we came in he said there are only two things I can do to my car in the future:
1. Wash it,
2. Wax it.

This was the first time I had been a passenger in my car. What a memorable experience, Craig so smooth.

That's it. I have taken his advice, and if course always look to Bill Verburg and Steve Weiner. And one (1) more thing, re-gear the car.

Foxman

Thanks for all the great replies. rrally helpful feedback. I should also mention that the car was modified by PO with an Uwe Gemballa suspension and has a lowering kit installed. She rides below RS height currently, shod with Fikse 18"x8" and 10". Here's a photo. Thanks again for any feedback, I'd like to get this right the first time.

Martin S.

...fostering up some empathy, two Carrera S cars? The pictured car is gorgeous. Seriously, there must be a good independent Porsche shop somewhere near you. I have been know to tow 4 hours to see my guy, each way, and worth it. Tell them what you want and ask them to set up the car accordingly.

You'll get some many different opinions on the Forum(s). Bill Verburg is right on the money, always, If your car is super lowered and you don't have front RS uprights, you need them.

Bill Verburg

Martin's is more of a full track setup, that's what I run as well

the op asked for a compromise between street and some track, which is why I recommend the Elephant sport rubber front paired w/ RS rear, this sharpens the handling considerably over stock while retaining a great ride, A variation on this is to use stock toe arms for more of a street bias or mono-ball toe arms for more track bias. Changing all the bushes front and rear to mono- ***** and turnbuckle arms similarly further sharpens the handling. The turnbuckle arms prevent the migration of alignment settings that is often seen in the back due to the stock eccentrics moving.

wheels and tires are another area that can be used to sharpen handling, Ideally 9 & 11 x18 w/ 245/and 285/30 tires even larger w/ more power. Easier to fit compromise is 8.5 & 10 w/ 235 to 245 and 275 to 285 rears, shorter is always better for many reasons. bas 8 & 10 w/ 225/ 265 is a decent way too go too.

jshu01

Thanks for all the great info in this thread.

Anyone know if there's a difference between the Elephant Sport bushings and the Rennline HD bushings? For the front control arm.
Thanks