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MY 85 Hatch keylock assembly, key will not turn

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Old Jul 1, 2016 | 03:32 PM
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Default MY 85 Hatch keylock assembly, key will not turn

The first year I got this car I had the same issue but I was able to repair it with wd40 in the keyhole and playing with the key, now I tried that and no go.

First of all are both keys identical, the red one and the black one, or is one setup for valet only and will work only in some places.
I have tried my black key in the lock and nothing turns.

To remove the cap to get to the cylinder assembly, do I have no choice but to drill out the two little pins on each side or is there another trick to get this cap off ?

I do not have an alarm on the hatch and no set screw on cap or around.

Here are some pics.








At least my latch unlatches now electrically again after some adjustments.
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Old Jul 1, 2016 | 05:13 PM
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Hi, try this GREAT write up by Wayne S.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ne-strutt.html

Last edited by davek9; Jul 1, 2016 at 05:36 PM.
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Old Jul 1, 2016 | 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by davek9
Thank you Dave, I already saw that great how to post, except on the s3 there is no set screw like the s4 model on this writeup. For the cap there seems to be 2 notches and 2 pins one on each side. I am not even sure these are 2 pins and not just one going all the way through ?
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Old Jul 1, 2016 | 06:08 PM
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This is also for an S4 but might be useful.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...larm-lock.html

Good luck.
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Old Jul 1, 2016 | 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Bertrand Daoust
This is also for an S4 but might be useful.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...larm-lock.html

Good luck.
Thank you Bertrand, I had not seen that one yet. I will check to see if it can help.
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Old Jul 2, 2016 | 02:34 PM
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I have successfully drilled out the top cap, but I can't get the cylinder out still.
Do I have to drill that out also since not constructed the same way as the S4 ?





That black ring/cap does it come off ? Do I need to drill further in to release the cylinder ?
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Old Jul 2, 2016 | 04:36 PM
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Yes. That is a short pin that holds the black ring (apparently called a "dress ring") in place.

There's another nice writeup on it here:

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...larm-lock.html
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Old Jul 3, 2016 | 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Wisconsin Joe
Yes. That is a short pin that holds the black ring (apparently called a "dress ring") in place.

There's another nice writeup on it here:

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...larm-lock.html
Great thank you Wisconsin Joe.
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Old Jul 3, 2016 | 11:42 AM
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Does anyone know if the pin circled in red has to be drilled out for the key cylinder to come out ?
The cylinder will not budge and if I use brute strength I might break something !
When I check the drill holes they seem to be deep enough for me to see a little bit pass the black ring.
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Old Jul 3, 2016 | 12:23 PM
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OMG !!!!! Success !!!!!

Finally got the cylinder out and I did have to drill out the pin in the plastic retainer !
Yes I know this is trivial for many but for me it's the first time and I have ecstatic !

Now to continue.

As you will see from these pictures many tumbler pins are sticking out of the cylinder bore, Do I just file these down while on the cylinder, or take them out first ?

Should I NOT remove the key from the cylinder, unless I want springs all over the place ? NOT ! I am terrified to remove the key at all.
Does anyone know if there is a difference between the red key and the black normal key as far as the hatch lock goes ?

I have put away many things because i was putting my house for sale, like the red key and the owners manual, I think it did say in there. Meanwhile i willl check for an online manual, but can anyone provide a quick answer instead for that red key.

The reason I ask is I do not want to file down the tumblers for nothing if I am using the wrong key !


Top view.




Side view.
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Old Jul 3, 2016 | 12:49 PM
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I found the info as far as the keys go, the only difference is the red key doesn't unlock the glove box !

Keys

Three keys are supplied with the vehicle. The

two master keys (black head) fit the ignition

lock, door locks, luggage compartment lock,

fuel filler cap lock and glove compartment lock.

The auxiliary key (read head) fits the ignition

lock, door locks, luggage compartment lock

and fuel filler cap lock.
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Old Jul 3, 2016 | 02:09 PM
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Is it normal that when the key is fully inserted in the lock, some pins are solidly out and will not budge, preventing the cylinder to move, I think ?

If I pull the key out about 1/4 to 1/2 an inch all tumblers are almost flush with the cylinder but the key still refuses to turn ?

When I remove the key verrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrry slowly not to have tumblers pop out I notice the tumblers move freely up and down.

Can it be a "key" issue, excuse the pun !
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Old Jul 3, 2016 | 02:34 PM
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Eureka ! Found my red key and I tried it in the cylinder while it's in the latch bracket and it turns freely !

So this confirms that my keys are not identical, ummmmmm

At least now I can unlock it with my red key !

Now to put things back together.
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Old Jul 5, 2016 | 05:59 PM
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Hi Andre,

I might have some pins left from old cylinders I had. If you want to get your main key to work on the hatch, we could try to repin it. Just drop by and we'll have a look.
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Old Jul 5, 2016 | 08:03 PM
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Default red key

On my S3 only the red key opens the hatchback, but it opens nothing else. The black keys open everything else, but not the hatchback. It drives me batty.
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