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Battery dead - charging system problems again

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Old Jun 23, 2016 | 09:25 AM
  #31  
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Went for a long drive yesterday and had the Innova plugged in the whole time. The good news is that the meter on the dash matches what the Innova tells me.

When I got home I saw the battery was still hovering around 12.1 mark even after running for 18 miles, restarting once, and then running another 18 miles back on about 50% highway. All done with only the AC on.

This morning was on the 11.9 mark so I did the voltage test to the terminals of the battery with the car on and off. In both cases the reading matches the Innova. With the car off the battery was on 11.9 but when I turned the car on then the voltage jumped to 13.7 at the terminals.

There isn't any corrosion on the cables or the terminals as I did a cleaning before switching the battery out in September 2015. I'll clean the terminals again and try some dielectric grease but if it doesn't check out then I'll be pointing fingers back at my battery again.

As for the car dying, I have heard that a bad battery could cause that so while the car was on I disconnected the negative terminal. Nothing really happened so don't think I can blame that. And I also jiggled the key and again nothing. So not sure what happened there.

Thank you all for the help in troubleshooting this problem, all of your feedback is very much appreciated!
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Old Jun 23, 2016 | 11:51 AM
  #32  
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Agree with your assessment if the 13.7v was measured at the battery posts, and not the battery cable screw terminals.

Not sure if you want to further invest on testers but I use this excellent battery tester. It will show you if the battery is good and how much it has degraded from new so it gives you plenty of early warning before you get stranded. It also does not require the battery to be fully charged like other regular load testers.

https://www.amazon.com/BA5-100-1200-...+battery+tster


Originally Posted by fpena944
Went for a long drive yesterday and had the Innova plugged in the whole time. The good news is that the meter on the dash matches what the Innova tells me.

When I got home I saw the battery was still hovering around 12.1 mark even after running for 18 miles, restarting once, and then running another 18 miles back on about 50% highway. All done with only the AC on.

This morning was on the 11.9 mark so I did the voltage test to the terminals of the battery with the car on and off. In both cases the reading matches the Innova. With the car off the battery was on 11.9 but when I turned the car on then the voltage jumped to 13.7 at the terminals.

There isn't any corrosion on the cables or the terminals as I did a cleaning before switching the battery out in September 2015. I'll clean the terminals again and try some dielectric grease but if it doesn't check out then I'll be pointing fingers back at my battery again.

As for the car dying, I have heard that a bad battery could cause that so while the car was on I disconnected the negative terminal. Nothing really happened so don't think I can blame that. And I also jiggled the key and again nothing. So not sure what happened there.

Thank you all for the help in troubleshooting this problem, all of your feedback is very much appreciated!
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Old Jun 23, 2016 | 02:14 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Ahsai
Agree with your assessment if the 13.7v was measured at the battery posts, and not the battery cable screw terminals.

Not sure if you want to further invest on testers but I use this excellent battery tester. It will show you if the battery is good and how much it has degraded from new so it gives you plenty of early warning before you get stranded. It also does not require the battery to be fully charged like other regular load testers.

https://www.amazon.com/BA5-100-1200-...+battery+tster
Yes I made sure to touch the probes directly to the battery posts as I wanted the reading right from the battery.

I forgot that my multimeter actually has some diagnostic functions built into it:

http://www.boschdiagnostics.com/diy/...nal-multimeter

I'm going to try the Cranking Voltage - Battery Load Test function on it and see what happens.

I'll try charging it again tonight and if it doesn't hold again will purchase another battery yet again. Maybe I'll finally find a good one like the one I had for the first 6 years with my car.
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Old Jun 23, 2016 | 02:52 PM
  #34  
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Keep in mind a trickle charger only outputs ~1A to charge the battery so even overnight (~12hrs) will only top off 12Ah and that's not much compared with the capacity of the battery (75-80Ah). You may need to leave it on for 24hrs or more to fully charge your battery.
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Old Jun 23, 2016 | 02:54 PM
  #35  
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I'm sure you'll get numerous suggestions on battery. For myself, Sears DieHard AGM. Awesome battery. I figure the load on it is terrific since I daily drive, run AC all the time, fans blasting away, and probably start/run 5-6 times a day. Never a glitch or hiccup. Always and every time. Good luck...hope it is just the battery. I've had worse luck with starters than with batteries. The OE one lasted ~12 years and 106K miles, second (my mistake) was a Bosch reman (lasted about 1.5 years then blew the bendix), then third one brand new Bosch. Been working good for 3 years. Back to batteries....
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Old Jun 23, 2016 | 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Ahsai
Keep in mind a trickle charger only outputs ~1A to charge the battery so even overnight (~12hrs) will only top off 12Ah and that's not much compared with the capacity of the battery (75-80Ah). You may need to leave it on for 24hrs or more to fully charge your battery.
My charger is actually a standard charger that puts out 2/6A but it doesn't have an automatic shutoff. So for that reason I always use it in 2 amp mode because I'm worried about overcharging my battery. Let me try the 6A mode for a few hours and just keep an eye on it.

Originally Posted by DBJoe996
I'm sure you'll get numerous suggestions on battery. For myself, Sears DieHard AGM. Awesome battery. I figure the load on it is terrific since I daily drive, run AC all the time, fans blasting away, and probably start/run 5-6 times a day. Never a glitch or hiccup. Always and every time. Good luck...hope it is just the battery. I've had worse luck with starters than with batteries. The OE one lasted ~12 years and 106K miles, second (my mistake) was a Bosch reman (lasted about 1.5 years then blew the bendix), then third one brand new Bosch. Been working good for 3 years. Back to batteries....
My father owns an auto repair shop and his over-the-phone diagnosis has been battery the whole time. He also suggested Diehard and if I remember correctly that's what my car had when I purchased it. Guess I shouldn't have strayed from what was there to begin with.
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Old Jun 23, 2016 | 03:30 PM
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I would also try changing the ignition switch, mine failed in two years and causes battery drain and inability to crank the car. I never had the car die on me while driving, but for the $20 - 30 it would cost to change it doesn't hurt to give it a shot. Ill be changing the entire ignition at some point to the new and improved one.
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Old Jun 27, 2016 | 10:48 AM
  #38  
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Just wanted to post an update...

I charged the battery and let it sit overnight and came back to a battery with full power.

Hooked it back up to the car and it began losing power almost immediately. So either parasitic drain or a battery that can't handle load and discharges as a result. Not sure yet but I'm still researching.

Drove the car into work this morning and had it showing 12.5 when I started it. Once I got into the parking garage it showed 12.46 which I thought was unusual because the entire drive my alternator was at between 13.4 - 13.8.

Fun times trying to diagnose all of this!
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Old Jun 27, 2016 | 11:06 AM
  #39  
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Almost identical scenario: http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-foru...teries.790441/

Well almost..flickering lights, stalled out, battery not holding a charge. Sometimes a battery is just toast. Once it gets cycled too many times it just doesn't work right. Agree that you might have some draw when the car is off, actually it will, but it is very minute. At least if you get a new battery, you've eliminated one thing.

Last edited by DBJoe996; Jun 27, 2016 at 11:36 AM.
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Old Jun 27, 2016 | 11:17 AM
  #40  
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It's normal to get low 12v when connecting the battery or when you open the doors as the electronic modules are activated. The innova reading should be:
- ~12.5v in the morning BEFORE you disarm and open the doors.
- Low 12.1 to 12.3 once you opened the door
- 9v or above during cranking
- ~14v once engine is started
- 13.5 to 14v during drive
- 12.5 to 12.6v as soon as you turn off the engine
- ~12.5v after you arm/lock the doors and drop matbe 0.1v overnight

Originally Posted by fpena944
Just wanted to post an update...

I charged the battery and let it sit overnight and came back to a battery with full power.

Hooked it back up to the car and it began losing power almost immediately. So either parasitic drain or a battery that can't handle load and discharges as a result. Not sure yet but I'm still researching.

Drove the car into work this morning and had it showing 12.5 when I started it. Once I got into the parking garage it showed 12.46 which I thought was unusual because the entire drive my alternator was at between 13.4 - 13.8.

Fun times trying to diagnose all of this!
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Old Jun 28, 2016 | 04:53 PM
  #41  
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I'm really starting to believe cars have feelings and seek vengence when jealous!

Brought home a Cayenne Turbo a little over a month ago and I've been in awe with all of the power and gadgetry in it. It's a much different car though but I think my 996 got a little jealous with everyone paying attention to this new beast sitting next to it in the garage.

Anyway was heading to the dealer to pick up some wipers for the CTT with my 996. I'd been focusing so much on the charging/battery issue that I had let the little incident where the car died on me a week ago slip from my mind.

At the dealer I pick up my wipers and I go to start the car. It turns over but it won't "catch". I guess it's like having a heart attack while visiting a friend in the hospital because I walked over to the service department and handed over my keys.

Wife picked me up in the Cayenne and we left the 996 there. The initial diagnosis is faulty camshaft position sensor. Once they get it running they'll also perform an electrical diagnostic and see if we can figure out the charging/battery issue once and for all.

And hopefully when it's all done the 996 will learn to live in harmony with it's new garage-mate

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Old Jun 28, 2016 | 05:18 PM
  #42  
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Well, you made it Cayenne's parts runner...you were asking for it
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Old Jun 28, 2016 | 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Ahsai
Well, you made it Cayenne's parts runner...you were asking for it
I had a VW GTi years ago that did the same thing to me. I was looking at a Porsche 968 and on the trip back from the dealer it died on me in the middle of a highway in Tampa! Never had an issue with that car until it knew I was considering selling it!

When I get the car back I'll provide info on the hopeful resolution of all these problems.
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Old Jun 28, 2016 | 11:19 PM
  #44  
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I'm curious to see what they find.

Originally Posted by fpena944
I had a VW GTi years ago that did the same thing to me. I was looking at a Porsche 968 and on the trip back from the dealer it died on me in the middle of a highway in Tampa! Never had an issue with that car until it knew I was considering selling it!

When I get the car back I'll provide info on the hopeful resolution of all these problems.
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Old Jul 12, 2016 | 02:40 PM
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Car came back with the diagnosis of a bad alternator. So I ordered the alternator from Amazon that Ahsai mentioned a few months ago.

I also ordered the alternator/starter ground cable that I know is problematic.

Once it's installed I'll circle back and update this thread with my results.
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