When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Got the car back on the ground. Had to remove the top strut nut with an air gun from a local garage .... The guy was kind enough to remove the threaded sleeves.....even with a press it was challenging.
Now....I think I made a rookie mistake and put the watchers in incorrectly !
Had a look on prior threads but still not sure. Can someone pls advise......as well as what the torque should be on the pin
I've always had to do this with spring compressed, as you can't extend the spring without removing the top nut to disassemble the shock including spring perches!
...do it in a spring compressor...not on the floor.
...do it in a spring compressor...not on the floor.
It would be nice to have a spring compressor, but hard to justify for the 10 or so springs I've done on my 928s and family cars in past ten years!
But I'm very safety conscious. I avoided the cheap compressors and went for very substantial pair that incorporate a locking device to prevent the yokes slipping from coils. They feel smooth and safe to use, but even so I make sure I'm out of line of fire while compressing/decompressing, and point the spring away from the car! Yes it's on the floor, but I don't take silly risks when using them.
It's the second link that's easier to understand correctly, the conical washers fit either side of the hub carrier. The flats facing outwards, once these are in place then the other three washers can't go anywhere but their correct positions.
Alignment is tricky as you need three hands, I used a small trolley jack to manoeuvre the hub in to place, plus a rubber mallet.
thanks everyone.... got it done - had to take the pins out again to correct the conial washers - much easier second time round :-)
next will be the front shocks. the design of the front is different than the rears.... will I have the same issues to remove the threaded sleeve or is it generally easier?
At least I've never had to cut the bolts to get a front shock off.
There are tricks to getting the coil-over assembly out of the arms. The S4+ cars are easier for that. (Search)
+1 the fronts are easier to disassemble and assemble.
To drop the shock with spring through the upper are, make sure that you jack the arm into the horizontal position. In that position it presents the maximum "aperture" to the spring, with enough room to drop it through.
Also easier with the wheel liner removed, which creates more room for manoeuvering the shock out of the wheel well.