Opinions on 0w-30 oil
10-14-2015, 02:49 PM
#31
Racer
Thread Starter
I would lean to a 0w40 or 5w40 ....however if you want to run a quality 0w30...German Castrol 0w30 probably the only one I would entertain for this application. Its very near the 40 weight range when up to temp and has very good low flow properties. The oil has a good following for a reason.
CT sells it in 1 liter containers only. Says "made in germany" on the back.
Not my endorsement to use it, that is ultimately up to you. Do i think you will hurt your engine running it? absolutely not.
CT sells it in 1 liter containers only. Says "made in germany" on the back.
Not my endorsement to use it, that is ultimately up to you. Do i think you will hurt your engine running it? absolutely not.
I may thicker the winter for 0w-40 and summer ill keep 5w-40.
10-14-2015, 02:57 PM
#32
lol.
in pretty much all cases thinner is the most optimal choice. Especially with todays additive packages/quality oil.
Not that I would rush out to run 0w20 per se in any of these cars...but you can't really buy an off the shelf oil that will be too thin and/or would hurt your engine.
these "thinner" oils might not meet other specs, you may potentially burn more of the thinner stuff...but it will not hurt any bearing surfaces especially on a street driven car*.
*changed at an appropriate interval
in pretty much all cases thinner is the most optimal choice. Especially with todays additive packages/quality oil.
Not that I would rush out to run 0w20 per se in any of these cars...but you can't really buy an off the shelf oil that will be too thin and/or would hurt your engine.
these "thinner" oils might not meet other specs, you may potentially burn more of the thinner stuff...but it will not hurt any bearing surfaces especially on a street driven car*.
*changed at an appropriate interval
10-14-2015, 09:34 PM
#35
Racer
Thread Starter
Do you know if there is a block heater for 996?
After some brainstorming i was thinking of getting a block heater, and eliminator battery pack with power outlet option.
Hook up a power bar with a built in timer, and hook the block heater to that.
This way can keep the oil warm.
Inputs are welcomed
After some brainstorming i was thinking of getting a block heater, and eliminator battery pack with power outlet option.
Hook up a power bar with a built in timer, and hook the block heater to that.
This way can keep the oil warm.
Inputs are welcomed
10-15-2015, 03:01 PM
#37
Burning Brakes
Oh no... not an oil debate.
One of my good friends is a chemical and mechanical engineer and used to work in the synthetic lubricant industry. Based on many discussions with him over many botles of good scotch, I am a fan of the M1 0W-40 (the Canadian 0W-40 only, that comes from the lab in France - not the other Mobil 1 oils or the US 0W-40 formulation with some group III base stock form the Texas refinery) for an everyday oil in a newer P-car with a healthy engine - especially if you drive it year-round in Canada. I have written essays on this on MBWorld as the same "what is the best oil to use" question keeps coming up for the M156 motor in the C63.
For all Porsche motors made in the last 20 years, anything less than a 40-weight hot is not going to provide sufficient HTHS film strentgth when pushed. A xW-30 may be OK if you never rev the engine past 5000 rpm for more than a couple of seconds, but I wouldn't recommend it.
For an older motor like the 944, 951 and 928, you can't beat the Shell Rotella T6 HDEO oil (it's a 5W-40) seeing as they no longer make the Helix. The Pennzoil and Quaker State formulations IMHO suck.
As for the Lubro/LiquMoly, Motul and Castrol, I am afraid the formulations of the first two are now primarly made to meet Euro emission and fuel efficency standards, which always come at the expense of engine protection, or in the case of Castrol, use the cheapest hydrocracked dino-juice base stocks they can possibly get away with and load it with additives.
Amsoil and Redline may be OK for specific applications (usually racing and/or built engines) but are not good oils for daily driver applications, and Royal Purple is... well, you might as well use extra-virgin olive oil.
ExxonMobil and Shell each spend more money on lubricant R&D than all other players combined. Unlike most of the other oils, the M1 0W-40 will not mask signs of wear in the motor, is considerably thinner at startup than a 5W-40 so you'll burn three times as much of it (at startup only) but it will get to those critical engine bits a lot faster and protect them. AFAIK the Candian formulations are still made from group IV and V (PAO / Ester) pure synthetic base stocks only and have the best all-around additive package when it comes to engine protection if you only change your oil at the factory prescribed intervals.
One of my good friends is a chemical and mechanical engineer and used to work in the synthetic lubricant industry. Based on many discussions with him over many botles of good scotch, I am a fan of the M1 0W-40 (the Canadian 0W-40 only, that comes from the lab in France - not the other Mobil 1 oils or the US 0W-40 formulation with some group III base stock form the Texas refinery) for an everyday oil in a newer P-car with a healthy engine - especially if you drive it year-round in Canada. I have written essays on this on MBWorld as the same "what is the best oil to use" question keeps coming up for the M156 motor in the C63.
For all Porsche motors made in the last 20 years, anything less than a 40-weight hot is not going to provide sufficient HTHS film strentgth when pushed. A xW-30 may be OK if you never rev the engine past 5000 rpm for more than a couple of seconds, but I wouldn't recommend it.
For an older motor like the 944, 951 and 928, you can't beat the Shell Rotella T6 HDEO oil (it's a 5W-40) seeing as they no longer make the Helix. The Pennzoil and Quaker State formulations IMHO suck.
As for the Lubro/LiquMoly, Motul and Castrol, I am afraid the formulations of the first two are now primarly made to meet Euro emission and fuel efficency standards, which always come at the expense of engine protection, or in the case of Castrol, use the cheapest hydrocracked dino-juice base stocks they can possibly get away with and load it with additives.
Amsoil and Redline may be OK for specific applications (usually racing and/or built engines) but are not good oils for daily driver applications, and Royal Purple is... well, you might as well use extra-virgin olive oil.
ExxonMobil and Shell each spend more money on lubricant R&D than all other players combined. Unlike most of the other oils, the M1 0W-40 will not mask signs of wear in the motor, is considerably thinner at startup than a 5W-40 so you'll burn three times as much of it (at startup only) but it will get to those critical engine bits a lot faster and protect them. AFAIK the Candian formulations are still made from group IV and V (PAO / Ester) pure synthetic base stocks only and have the best all-around additive package when it comes to engine protection if you only change your oil at the factory prescribed intervals.
10-15-2015, 04:42 PM
#38
Team Owner
I would not say this is a debate , just a really good oil discussion thread for our climate.
" thicker = more protection and thinner = easier start ups "
are we talking about oil or condoms ????
" thicker = more protection and thinner = easier start ups "
are we talking about oil or condoms ????
10-15-2015, 06:37 PM
#40
Drifting
Love the closet engineers, " an engineer at Mobil told me Castrol uses the cheapest Dino base stocks they can get their hands on" 
I should know better than respond to idiotic posts like this but when it comes to the brand that feeds me and my family and has a 130 year history of delivering top quality formulations I can't just sit on my hands.
You sir are misinformed and I suggest for any that may believe this nonsense please run a head to head comparison used or virgin oil sample if you have any doubts. I sleep very well at night knowing I sell a top tier product that in every case exceeds OEM specifications.
I should know better than respond to idiotic posts like this but when it comes to the brand that feeds me and my family and has a 130 year history of delivering top quality formulations I can't just sit on my hands.
You sir are misinformed and I suggest for any that may believe this nonsense please run a head to head comparison used or virgin oil sample if you have any doubts. I sleep very well at night knowing I sell a top tier product that in every case exceeds OEM specifications.
Last edited by Pags993; 10-15-2015 at 07:05 PM.
10-15-2015, 09:08 PM
#42
Burning Brakes
Love the closet engineers, " an engineer at Mobil told me Castrol uses the cheapest Dino base stocks they can get their hands on"
I should know better than respond to idiotic posts like this but when it comes to the brand that feeds me and my family and has a 130 year history of delivering top quality formulations I can't just sit on my hands.
You sir are misinformed and I suggest for any that may believe this nonsense please run a head to head comparison used or virgin oil sample if you have any doubts. I sleep very well at night knowing I sell a top tier product that in every case exceeds OEM specifications.
I should know better than respond to idiotic posts like this but when it comes to the brand that feeds me and my family and has a 130 year history of delivering top quality formulations I can't just sit on my hands.
You sir are misinformed and I suggest for any that may believe this nonsense please run a head to head comparison used or virgin oil sample if you have any doubts. I sleep very well at night knowing I sell a top tier product that in every case exceeds OEM specifications.
While I don't personally work in the petroleum and synthetic lubricant industry, a number of my non-closet, professional engineers do, and a number of those are also car afficionados so I'll take their word over that of an oil salesperson any day. Furthermore, seeing as I've been tinkering with cars as a hobby since I could walk and that during the last twenty years I've probably blown up and - with some help - rebuilt more engines than the number of parties I've gone to, and furthermore the fact that I've easily spent hundreds of hours wrencing on other people's cars for fun or out of curiosity at a local indie Porsche race shop, easily looked at hundreds of VOAs and UOAs from all sorts of cars and know a thing or two about oil chemistry and additives, I would kindly ask you to perhaps listen to your own advice and refrain from jumping to conslusions about what you may think are idiotic posts.
Had you simply said "hey, I disagree with you bechause of this or that", then I would be happy to hear your opinion (and reasons why you may hold a partiicualr opinion), buy you a beverage or three and perhaps learn somethign that I don't know. This way however I can't help but think that your post is the idiotic one, and seeing as you apparently sell oil, that you are the one with an ulterior motive or a biased opinion.
If you want to talk about oil chemistry, additives, metallurgy and what propperty or additive does what, I am all ears and welcome the discussion either here, on BITOG or MBWorld. If you're just going to call a post idiotic because it goes against your own bias, I am afraid I won't engage you further as I have better things to do with my discretionary time.
Cheers,
Doug
P.S. I do know what Castrol uses for their base stocks because some of my aforementioned friends are the very engineers who refine and/or synthesize said base stocks at BP (Wakefield bought the oil from other sources prior to the BP takeover). In the case of ExxonMobil I can even find out what refinery or lab a particvual batch came from. One of said engineering friends holds about 20 patents related to sythetic oil when it was still in its infancy at the consumer level (he worked for Union Carbide at the time). And, in case you're not talking about Catrol but rather one of the pyramid-scheme "boutique" offerings like Amsoil or RP - which would make more sense - then yes, I'd *love* to have an intelligent discussion abouts the relative merits of your product.
Last edited by 928gt; 10-15-2015 at 09:27 PM.
10-17-2015, 03:28 PM
#45
Rennlist Member
How does one tell the difference? As I remember the packaging is the same isn't it?