996_North

Hello all,

Seems like my Alternator or regulator is shot on my 1999 996. Battery is 1 year old, so I will still get it checked, but i doubt this is the issue.

I have a rather long list of DIY repairs already (Horn bushing, motor mounts, window regulator, plenum install, double DIN stereo install, o/c etc..) and I think i need to bite the bullet and get this one done at a shop as it is actually impacting my ability to drive it around and enjoy it !

Can anyone recommend an Indy in the west end, and also what a reasonable cost would be ? How many hours labor ? Is there any easy way to confirm the alt is dead ?

Thanks !

Imo000

Chang the alternator on the 996 is pretty easy. It will take less time to do it yourself than to drive and waiy at the shop. Any alternator shop can rebuild it for around $150-$200.

996_North

Imo000...Alright, read a few DIYs today on this today. I'll tackle this one next weekend. Pull it out and get it checked. This one seems the most thorough. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...placement.html.

The right bolt and press fit bushing may be a pain, but the rest looks easy. Might as well change the polyrib belt while I am in there.

Ill give it a go.

Thanks

Dan@SCB

if you need parts, email me

Crazy Canuck

Get it rebuilt if you can live with it out for a few days.

996_North

Thanks Zook..I still have the plenum I got from you last year to install ! Damn job keep interrupting my life.

996_North

I'm pulling it out this weekend ! Anyone have recommendations for rebuilders in west end Toronto ?

Imo000

If the oil filler tube is original, it might snap during the alternator removal. So be prepared to get a new updated one.

theiceman

How do you know alt is bad. What is the voltage output at idle ? 2000 rpm ?

996_North

Thanks for the heads up.

Starts at 14 and drops slowly to below 10. Drops faster when driving.

wxseed

I agree with Imo000, change the oil fill tube at the same time, it is a pain to do without removing the throttle body, also the piece in this link may break (http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic...olant-problem/) because it gets in the way and is brittle, not sure what you call it. I believe that you can use a 3/8 " hose barb to replace it. You are correct about getting that bushing on the right hand bolt back, use penetrating oil. The farther you can drift the bushing back the better, it will allow you to rotate the alt. to get it out. When I finally got my alt out, I very carefully heated the area around the bushing gave it a light tap to move it all the way back, it made the install go much easier.
Good luck

Imo000

No need to heat it, just use a large socket and a vise. I've done this many time on many cars. That small coolant pipe connection is very frail. I've replaced it with a brass one from Home Depot and used the old piece as a bracket. See my "I dragged home one of these" thread, it's in there with pictures.

theiceman

Thats odd, they usually dont behave like that .. normal failure mode it is barely enough or low .. but when you rev it it increases but not enough .. could be the regulator i guess . Anyway good luck.

Torontoworker

Did you test the battery output regulated and unregulated? Remove the negative and then positive cables. Put a meter across the terminals. The book says you should have between 12.4 and 12.6V After you hook up the cables again - the regulated voltage should not exceed 14.4 at idle and proper level should be 13.8VDC.

The proper test is a 'load test' for both the battery and alternator and any shop can do this in a matter of minutes.

Imo000

Canadian Tire can test both but they have to be off the car.