Christien

A couple guys were asking me about my engine swap. I got started yesterday - so far just pulled the old engine and separated the tranny. I want to reseal the tranny while it's out, because it's leaking a bit.

Here's the thread on Pelican:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...o-my-72-t.html

porsche0nut

Awesome! Keep us posted here because I don't check pelican regularly (except the "for sale" section )

Christien

Here's the first instalment:

I found a great deal from another Pelican on an 82 SC engine, 154k miles, clean PPI by John Walker. I bought it, had it delivered to Buffalo, barely squeezed it into the back of our Honda Odyssey, and almost broke my back getting it out into the garage This weekend I tore into the engine swap.

A bit of background: I pulled the original 2.4L engine because it was smoking, and was tired. I bought a rebuilt 1967 2.0L that had apparently been hotrodded to E specs and came with freshly rebuilt Webers. Power felt very similar to my 2.4, and I was happy with it, considering it was only supposed to be a temporary replacement while I rebuilt my 2.4.

Well, life gets in the way often, and the 2.4 sat for two winters. And it'll probably sit again this winter. So I bought the 3.0. Hmm, 204 hp in a 2100 lb car... That'll be fun!

So first step was pulling the engine:

I want to reseal my leaking tranny while it's out:

(Is it possible to put images inline with text the way rennlist has vBulletin setup? On Pelican, the images show up as html, here they're as attachments and go at the bottom of the post.)

porsche0nut

Hmm not sure about the text inline with photos... Ronan's posts usually separate the two so perhaps he can help us out?

Are you going to keep the webers on the transplant? I love the look of those intake stacks and the sound and smell of carbs screams "classic sportscar" to me!

Christien

Yep. The Webers are staying. Too much time, hassle and cost to keep the CIS, and there's not really any significant advantage to it anyway. At least so say the folks who know more than I do.

Here's tonight's instalment:

Not too much time tonight. Got the tranny resealed. Cleaned the hell out of the case matings - scrubbed as much of the old paper gasket off as I could, then scrubbed it clean with brake cleaner. Applied loctite and closed her up. Yummy orange goo...

Next up: rejetting the Webers.

Christien

Well, it's a learning curve, right? The 3.0L didn't come with a flywheel and the the 1972 engine has a 6-bolt flywheel (compared the later 9-bolt style). So I had to source a new one, which arrived yesterday. So I get it on and I'm all ready to mate the tranny to it, when I look a bit more closely and realize something's missing. No pilot bearing. ****. So I'm stalled again while I locate one, hopefully locally so I can finish up tonight.

Christien

Today's misadventures:

Another problem. The clutch lever on the 72 915 won't allow me to mate the transmission to the engine, because there's an exhaust cross-piece preventing it from swinging out to allow the fork to engage the throwout bearing. Details are here: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...k-exhaust.html

I ended up removing the cross piece, which I'll reinstall when the engine's back in - it'll be much easier to access from underneath, now that the tranny's in place.

The engine should go back in tomorrow, then I need to deal with whatever electrical issues pop up. I might yank the exhaust of the 2.4 and use that, too. Again, easier to do once the engine's back in.

theiceman

christien does that rod that comes out of the transmision go directly into the coupler or are there more linkages between the coupler and the transmission

Christien

The rod from the tranny is the one that connects to the coupler in the tunnel - nothing else in between.

Christien

Tonight's installment in the ongoing saga:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/6265891-post16.html

Christien

I hate removing 30 year old exhaust systems:

Let me preface this by saying that removing the exhaust is probably one of the least pleasant jobs I've ever done on a 911. Lying on your back with penetrant dripping on you, bits of crud falling into your eyes, and then trying to find an angle to get some torque on the nuts. Ugh. When I first pulled the exhaust off my 72, it was a PITA, but with penetrant and heat, I got them all off with no broken studs. When I installed the exhaust on the 67, I made sure to use anti-seize on the studs, and it came off tonight in about 10 minutes. No problem with any of the 12 nuts. On the 3.0L, however, even with 2 days of penetrant, heat cycles, and then heat blasts, still broke 2 damn studs. Luckily they broke right at the nut, so there's plenty of stalk left to do the 2-nut removal thingy, though after almost an hour at one, I packed it in for the night. The upside is that this should be the last step before filling it up with oil and turning the key.

theiceman

So whats the plan Christien ? ( remember there is no reason they cant snap again ) you gonna hammer it with heat on the case and see if you can ease them out ?

Christien

Luckily they both broke right at the nut, so after I pulled the exhaust off, there was a good inch of stalk left. I should be able to get them off by double nutting them. I started on one last night with no luck, so I shot them with penetrant and I'll try again today. A good heating of the header should help too.

Christien

Exhaust on, engine running (after having the distributor in 180* off and getting fireworks out of the carbs!), but exhaust nuts only on half-way and I can only get 3rd and 4th gears. I decided a week ago that Zoran at Zorotech would soon get well aquainted with my nuts (exhaust nuts, that is) and last night decided he'd also get familiar with my shaft (shift shaft, that is). I've adjust the shift coupler countless times on multiple cars, and I checked everything with it, including the access plate fork on the tranny, and I'm completely baffled as to what's wrong. So I sent it in to Zoran this morning, and hope to be driving it by the weekend.